Remanufactured caliper

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I've always rebuilt my calipers myself but am planning to get remanufactured this time to save the labor. I've heard some reports of remanufactured calipers rusting soon after installation, and occasional reports of mismatched hardware or leaky seals.

Do any of you have a recommendation for the best source to be sure I get good quality? My interweb research indicates Centric and NuGeon are fairly reputable.

This is for a 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX.

Thanks in advance.
 
I've never had a functional issue with a remanufactured caliper but I have had rust issues. They seem to rust almost immediately, pretty much within a week or month. You either buy some caliper paint or find a better supplier. Hopefully someone will chime in and suggest something because I'm curious too. I've typically bought mine from NAPA in the past since it was always on short notice that I needed one.
 
Originally Posted By: jcwit
Not to sound stupid, but does it matter if they rust? Just wondering.
Just a cosmetic annoyance that I'd prefer to avoid.
 
When I replace calipers, I usually paint the new ones before they go on the car. Cast iron with no surface treatment rusts like crazy. I don't relish the idea of putting unpainted cast iron into service on my cars. But like said above, it doesn't seem to affect performance.

Another thing I do with replacement calipers is that I take out the piston and butter the piston bore with silicone grease. After putting the piston back in I'll butter the inside of the dust boot with silicone grease. This should help keep the elements out of the critical areas.
 
I have long rebuilt my own cylinders and calipers. It is getting harder and harder to find kits and their price is getting closer and closer to a rebuilt exchange.

I had a terrible experience last year using ''Brake Best'' or whatever kits from Oreily's. The seals were too tight, not allowing the piston to slide in them. I guess the rubber was stretching and then snapping back retracting the pistons leaving me a low brake pedal. Whatever the problem, I bought new kits at NAPA, installed them and they worked fine. I was happy when they opened an Oriely's here a couple of years ago. I have had trouble with nearly everything I bought there. The may not get me in the door except for good YB Pennzoil specials.
 
I also installed A-1 Cardone Re-manufactured calipers and they seem to be working fine for two years now. Cosmetic rust is a problem as they did rust after the first rain.
 
A while back i picked up a set of Kelsey Hayes calipers complete with brackets and Bendix semi metallic pads for $39 each with no core from USASUPERSALE.
They have a zinc coating and complete hardware kit.I painted them anyway and kept the originals to rebuild when i have time over the winter making the next brake job just another bolt on affair.
The only issue with their website is there are only part numbers nothing really model specific.Online sources and Hollander interchange manual are a big help.$20 shipping for all 4 was ok,packaging was also good.

http://stores.channeladvisor.com/USASUPERSALE/Brake Parts/Caliper/
 
Originally Posted By: labman
The seals were too tight, not allowing the piston to slide in them. I guess the rubber was stretching and then snapping back retracting the pistons leaving me a low brake pedal.

The seals on calipers are designed to bend in a way that the pads snap back when you let go of the pedal. This is to back off the pads so they won't drag against the rotor. But otherwise it sounds like you had a problem that was fixed with a different set of calipers.
 
No, no, no, the pistons aren't supposed to snap back. The same calipers worked just like they should once I replaced the Oreily trash.
 
Originally Posted By: labman
... The seals were too tight, not allowing the piston to slide in them. I guess the rubber was stretching and then snapping back retracting the pistons leaving me a low brake pedal.
Yep, I had that same problem once on a motorcycle caliper. The seals were too tight and over-retracted the piston. So half the brake lever travel was being used up moving the piston forward to contact the disc. I could actually see the piston move forward and back as I squeezed and released the lever.

I must have wasted a gallon of brake fluid bleeding the brakes to fix the mushy lever before discovering the real source of the problem.
 
Originally Posted By: labman
No, no, no, the pistons aren't supposed to snap back. The same calipers worked just like they should once I replaced the Oreily trash.


Yeah the piston shouldn't snap back, unless it's a caliper design with a bevel in front of the seal and the application has a quick-take up master cylnder. I don't think GM or Ford use the quick take up system anymore, and they were the only ones that did as far as I know.

I've always had good luck with Cardone calipers and wheel cylinders.
 
Originally Posted By: Lorenzo
Originally Posted By: labman
... The seals were too tight, not allowing the piston to slide in them. I guess the rubber was stretching and then snapping back retracting the pistons leaving me a low brake pedal.
Yep, I had that same problem once on a motorcycle caliper. The seals were too tight and over-retracted the piston. So half the brake lever travel was being used up moving the piston forward to contact the disc. I could actually see the piston move forward and back as I squeezed and released the lever.



I must have wasted a gallon of brake fluid bleeding the brakes to fix the mushy lever before discovering the real source of the problem.


I could tell it was excess pedal travel. Once it finally bottomed out, it was solid.
 
The Raybestos semi-loaded calipers are already painted and include new brackets.

Replacing the bracket and hardware (boots, pins, clips) are just as important as replacing the caliper itself.
 
A caliper should outlast several pads. The other hardware and rubber parts needs to be carefully cleaned up, inspected, and replaced as needed every pad change. At today's shop rates, You may be better off with a loaded caliper if hiring it done.
 
Anybody's auto parts store rebuilt calipers can be very good, but it is a [censored] shoot - a chance .
It only takes a few minutes to spray paint them with rustoleum.
 
Also, the flexion of the seals on the puck DO retract the piston when you let off the pedal.
Not 6 miles, but enough to release the pads a bit.
 
I used to rebuild my calipers too, but as already mentioned cost is getting up there and parts can be a PIA to get. The remanufactured calipers I've gotten have been pretty good. If the calipers are visible I paint them with a good high heat paint, it helps. Otherwise I just install them, the rust doesn't effect how they work.
 
I'm in IT hardware, and I work on a lot of printers. I see the "rebuilding" problem first hand every day. In order for the rebuilding business to be profitable, you have to put as little money into the cores as possible. So parts that are close enough go back into production. On a printer, that means the reman part doesn't last as long because the bearings or the wear surfaces are already pre-worn. Or that new, cheap toner cartridge that prints nice and dark on the first page ends up leaking all over the place and ruining the fuser because it is dumping too much toner.... argh. Keeps me in business though...

I have bought my share of remanned car parts, and have seen the same thing. The better brands have better quality control, but I have seen where the cores have been worn out from too many cycles of rebuilding. The older and greater volume cars seem to be most affected. Especially on places where there are slide contacts or pivot contacts, like the notch where the pads slide into. (Or mounting ears on things like alternators.) Sometimes the difference is just a little extra slop in the pedal, or the difference between a noisy pad and not. Or they might use oversized seals to bridge the gap in a worn bore. It works and is probably safe, but not as tight as a new piece.

So on your own car, you can rebuild the cores the one or two times that is the life of the car. But when you buy a remanned part, you don't know how many times it has gone through the process. The thing could be 10 cycles old, and expose design problems that you'd never see on a normal car. Parts that might literally have a million miles on them.
 
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