Coating chassis with marine grease.

[Bigsyke]

Hey has anybody coated their underside with Marine grease? This seems much more durable than a spray coating that ive been seing, since it would last almost all year easily.

Price isnt an issue, I will get enough to cover all of the suspension/seams/rockers and panels.

Ive covered the rear end with bar&chain oil and there is no increased rusting on those areas, but it eventually dries up, and is super messy to apply.

 

[snakyjake]

I would not consider a "spray coating" to be "grease".

For the suspension, I use extreme pressure grease.

For marine, I use waterproof grease.

I also don't like EP grease on non-EP applications.

If I wanted to prevent rusting on the underside, I'd consider a galvanic primer and paint.

 

[1993_VG30E_GXE]

I've coated the metal parts with Rod Grease, much thicker than Marine grease. If you can find a Marine grease with aluminum then maybe that would be OK. The regular lithium EP grease will just wash off.

The grease tactic works but it should be oiled first so it creeps in the cracks. If you a apply the grease over dry rusted metal it can still rust underneath.

Obviously once you spray it with oil, you need to wait a while before applying the grease or else the grease will just rub off.

Coating the ENTIRE underside with grease is a waste if it has that manufacturers undercoating, that rubber stuff, your just wasting money. But definately grease the entire suspension and motor mounts, trans mounts, cross member, transverse links, radius rods, parallel links, rear member, radiator support,transverse link gussets, any bare metal etc..., shifter wire.....

It seems to work pretty good, but an aluminum type would be best or the Rod Grease type that's thick and won't wash off.

 

[1993_VG30E_GXE]

Oh, I tried Loctite Maxi-Coat by the way, and it doesn't seem that durable. I'll do more inspections tonight because I have the wheels off, but the loctite maxicoat is expensive, and seems to have dried away.

 

[Captain_Klink]

Fluid Film AR is very good. I heat it up in a pot to liquify it, mix it 50:50 with automotive rust proofing product like Safety Kleen oil, and spray it on with compressed air sprayer.

 

[Bigsyke]

This is almost no undercoating on the 240's, they rust faster than any car ive seen.

I just thought I could oil the insides of the rockers and creases, and use a very thick tacky type of grease on the under body that wont just wash off in time.

I cant use paint right now, its 40*f tops outside.

 

[Tempest]

You might want to look into Max Wax from Corrosion X. I've not used it (rust is not a problem here) but the products that I have used from CX are top notch.

 

[1993_VG30E_GXE]

Bigskye, i'm doing an experient tonight and I'll post the results later. I'm mixing 1L of Walmart SuperTech 5W30 engine oil with about 75% of 1 cartridge of Jet-Lube MARINE MP NLGI No. 2 Grease. I have then combined the contents inside a cheap walmart aluminum tea pot, and I'm going outside to SLOWLY warm the contents to see if they combine, over a gas burner.

Obviously if you put the clumps of grease in the oil, it won't spray out my undercoating gun, so I had to combine it with oil. I would use Lanolin (Wool Wax) oil if I could find it but I have no idea where to buy it in bulk. Maybe I should kill some sheep for my rust proofing experiment, and string them up in the backyard to get the wool wax out.

And thanks guys in the other thread for telling me how to heat it VERY MINORLY so the vapors don't pop out. I just need it to combine.

Let's hope this experiment goes well. This could be the ultimate rustproofing experiment. SteveC, you should be peeing your pants by now

(I just feel like I would be getting ripped off by buying a pail of rustproof for a hundred bucks, when we all know it's just oil and grease mixed together or something basic, that costs next to nothing to probably mix up ourselves. OK it might be slightly messy to do it, but I like playing mad scientist once and awhile).

 

[JHZR2]

why not go to Krown, they supposedlhy have great stuff and a very nice process.

 

[Kestas]

Agreed. Spending a hundred dollars means nothing considering how much rust can damage a vehicle.

 

[gomes512]

Instead of mixing grease and oil mix paraffin wax with mineral spirits. Takes a while to dissolve, but once it does I throw in a some Accel sae30 oil.

It creeps and forms a durable water proof undercoating.

 

[1993_VG30E_GXE]

I'll try that gomes. Kestas and JH, that's 120 X 2 per yr forever. Once a yr is not enough in Toronto. It's needs to be done twice a yr. Once in the spring. Once in the fall. And once I started Krown, I couldn't stop, or there's no point in starting it in the first place. Plus I have two cars. That's $480.00 per yr.

Gomes i'll try that. By the way, my machinist friend told me he heard an old trick from a farmer was to spray that smelly gear oil, the kind in differentials, as it's much thicker.

I don't know if I like the idea of wax though, could it plug drainage ways and let water pool in areas where it could get stuck because the wax blocked it?

 

[gofastman]

You may want to check out Amsoil MP HD.
It requires at least annual application here in MN, but it shouldn't take more than 1/2 an hour to do a whole vehicle

 

[Kestas]

Krown must spply it thin. I do it myself so it doesn't cost that much. It costs me no more than $40 per year, per car (a large Mercury Marquis). We live in the same climate.

$100 worth of rustproofing is laying it on very thick, and lasts me at least 3 years. I inspect it every year to see if it needs touchup or complete rerustproofing.

Stay away from waxy compounds. They can delaminate, trap corrodants, and make corrosion worse in the later stages of the life of the material.