block heater

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I have an oil pan heater on my SUV and I would never get a Block Heater again... I'm super happy with the quick starts in the winter and how quickly I get heat.

I wouldn't waste your money on a block heater... Get an oil pan heater.
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This past month I had a stock block heater installed in my 09 saturn outlook. My saturn dealer gave me a choice of a gm thermostat controlled cord for $130 or a gm non thermostat controlled cord for $28. I went with the non thermostat cord.
The thermostat is in the male part of the cord and only turns on when the temp is below 0 F.

I posted this info on the acadia forms, and a few members took issue with what I had done. I was told that the thermostat was there for a reason? Apparently on some gm cars/truck the computer does a test on start up. It tests the coolant temp against the air inlet temp. If there is a big difference, the car may throw a code, thinking that one of the two sensors is bad. I was told that below 0 F, the computer either ignores the difference or doesn't to the test on start up. So, this winter, I will test this out at different temps to see if I get a CEL if I use the block heater above 0 F.

I searched around and could only find a few examples of this happening and it was mostly happening with GM trucks.

I don't think I will have any issue and if I do, I will limit the block heater use to temps below 0 F.
 
No downside, but since most block heaters consume 400-1500 watts depending on application, if you live in a area with high-cost electricity, and use the heater often, it can add a good chunk to your electic bill.

I had a few vehicles with block heaters, and when I was upstate and the temps dropped well below zero F, I'd plug in, other than that the hassle wasn't worth the cost/benefit.
 
Originally Posted By: Ross
This past month I had a stock block heater installed in my 09 saturn outlook. My saturn dealer gave me a choice of a gm thermostat controlled cord for $130 or a gm non thermostat controlled cord for $28. I went with the non thermostat cord.
The thermostat is in the male part of the cord and only turns on when the temp is below 0 F.

I posted this info on the acadia forms, and a few members took issue with what I had done. I was told that the thermostat was there for a reason? Apparently on some gm cars/truck the computer does a test on start up. It tests the coolant temp against the air inlet temp. If there is a big difference, the car may throw a code, thinking that one of the two sensors is bad. I was told that below 0 F, the computer either ignores the difference or doesn't to the test on start up. So, this winter, I will test this out at different temps to see if I get a CEL if I use the block heater above 0 F.

I searched around and could only find a few examples of this happening and it was mostly happening with GM trucks.

I don't think I will have any issue and if I do, I will limit the block heater use to temps below 0 F.




Don't worry about it Ross... The thermostat controlled cord is only offered for ease of use and money savings. The non-thermostat controlled cord will simply heat up the block heater in any temp, whereas the controlled cord can be plugged it at all times but will only activate when absolutely necessary. This is really only to make things easier for the owner, and to take away some of the guess work of using it (and obviously to cut down on electrical consumption - which is minimal anyway).

Your car will not throw a code with the non-controlled block heater cord, especially if GM offers both cords. Some people are just misinformed. Plus, I wouldn't want the controlled cord either, since I prefer to start using my block heater in any temps below 25-30F.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew2000
No downside, but since most block heaters consume 400-1500 watts depending on application, if you live in a area with high-cost electricity, and use the heater often, it can add a good chunk to your electic bill.

I had a few vehicles with block heaters, and when I was upstate and the temps dropped well below zero F, I'd plug in, other than that the hassle wasn't worth the cost/benefit.


+1

Use a 0Wxx oil or full synthetic 5W30 and forget about the block heater.

I live in northern Canada and I don't plug my block heater in until about -15C to -20C (around 0F).

I have started my vehicles many times at -35C and 5W30 dino with no issues.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I have an oil pan heater on my SUV and I would never get a Block Heater again... I'm super happy with the quick starts in the winter and how quickly I get heat.

I wouldn't waste your money on a block heater... Get an oil pan heater.
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A friend on this board told me the same thing. I agree! He said if you want to heat the cabin, get a block heater, you want to warm an engine get a pan heater.
 
I have only an Oil Pan heater and if I leave it on long enough (3 Hours) in our frigid weather I will get heat within a few minutes after starting the vehicle. It works just as well as a block heater but has the advantage of heating up the oil for quicker starts causing less wear.
 
Good to know. I haven't encountered anything your frigid cold here on LI since I installed my pan heater, and probably won't. But talking with the people at Wolverine they convinced me it is better than a block heater. Hearing your report backs up their claims! Thanks for posting!
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Good to know. I haven't encountered anything your frigid cold here on LI since I installed my pan heater, and probably won't. But talking with the people at Wolverine they convinced me it is better than a block heater. Hearing your report backs up their claims! Thanks for posting!


You're welcome... I love mine and would never mess around with a BH again. OP heaters is where it is at for many different reasons.
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We exchanged a few PM's, you and I about Block Heaters. I figured who'd know better than one of my northern neighbors! I was going to take a shot at installing one in my Jeep, I passed.
 
I have both a block heater and an oil pan heater on my Suburban. The block heater is much more effective than the oil pan heater if each are used alone. My truck starts fine even at -30 unassisted, but using the heaters allows much truck to warm up MUCH faster (it has a HUGE cooling system), improves gas mileage, and reduces start-up wear. Why wouldn't a BITOG member not want these benefits??

We also have a '99 Civic, with a block heater only. Even with Synthtic 5W30, the block heater greatly reduces start up effort at low temperatures. It also blows heat very quickly when plugged in (it has a tiny coolant system). The block heater was a super easy install on this car, and for the cost of the part was worth the upgrade.

If I were you, I'd install a block heater as long as you have the mechnaical skills. You won't regret it, and the routine of plugging a car in, doesn't take long to pick up.
 
I imagine that you could draw some sump:cooling system and/or displacement relationship in regard to which one would serve you better. That is, most engines have a minimum 4 quart sump ..but tend to peak out at 6 quarts over a broad span of displacements. Cooling jacket size/volume would probably more contour displacement, while cooling system capacity will more contour the chassis size/load capacity.


2003 Honda Civic 2.0
CAPACITIES:
Engine, with filter..........4.5 quarts [1]
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........7.1 quarts

2003 Chevy Malibu 3.1

CAPACITIES:
Engine, with filter..........4.6 quarts [1]
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........13.8 quarts
 
Size is everything. My oil pan heater is pretty big and gets the oil nice and warm. Next cold day I'll check it with the lazer thermometer and get a reading.
 
I have a 250 Watt heater on a 5 quart sump. The problem is, it's just heating a stamped steel pan carrying the oil. This gets the oil very toasty warm, but does little to warm the heavy cast iron engine block. Whereas, the coolant block heater heats the coolant in the coolant jackets throughout the engine. Thermo siphoning allows the coolant to move throughout the block and warm the entire engine.

Keep in mid when comparing the coolant capacity to oil capacity, that much of the coolant is in the rad, which is not heated by the block heater.

The oil pan heater does work well in that it reduces start-up stress and engine wear, but it does a poor job of heating the engine block compared to a block heater.
 
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I have both, plus a battery heater (take that, useless 300CCA Panasonic junk!) I was having condensation problems from extremely short (and cold) starts.


I've yet to wire them all up, however. Still just using the block heater.
 
compare the watts of a pan heater and a block heater,and for god's sake dont take the manufacturers (wolverine) word for its pro's and con's
 
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