Just put the Redline 0-30 in the G37

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Just reached 3k miles on the 2009 G37 so in went the new 0-30 Redline. I figure I will leave it in for 6k and do an UOA. The motor is dead quiet with this oil and seems to rev quicker and have more throttle response. I will track my gas mileage to see if it improves any. With the colder weather moving in this might be tough.
 
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mmmmm... redline
20.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny
If it did not cost so darn much I would try their 0w/5w/20 in one of my cars. But it's just to darn expensive.


Indeed it is, but if you can get 10-15k miles out of it, maybe it's worth it.
 
I paid $130 for a case of 12 with shipping from matrixsyntheticoils.com. The new 0- grades are even more expensive than the older 5- weights. Cheap it ain't....
 
Your engine is still breaking in.
Of course it revs quicker and has more throttle response.
The gas mileage will go up as well.
 
I finally swapped my engine over to Redline 5W-30 at about 25,000 miles. Dramatically smoother, quieter, and it also seems to rev faster. It burned out so bad from a 2nd gear 45mph roll the day after I put it in it tagged the 7200 rpm rev limiter. It's never done that before, usually it sustains a 6700-6800 rpm burn out for a second or two then hooks.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Isn't the TBN rather low for a long drain oil


Depends on TBN retention

Quote:
and the zink and phos too high for modern gas engines with the RL 0-30.


Too high for API SM, but not too high for modern gas engines.
 
Originally Posted By: Fourload
Just reached 3k miles on the 2009 G37 so in went the new 0-30 Redline. I figure I will leave it in for 6k and do an UOA.


In your situation with the engine still shedding break in material coupled with the initial chemical cleaning one sees using RL in the first one/two or even 3 OCIs, your UOA after 6k is likely not to be representative of what you would hope to see later on.
 
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Originally Posted By: tig1
Isn't the TBN rather low for a long drain oil


Depends on TBN retention

Quote:
and the zink and phos too high for modern gas engines with the RL 0-30.


Too high for API SM, but not too high for modern gas engines.




I thought high zddp levels was hard on cats. Over 1000 PPM?
 
6,000 miles is a waste of syn oil 10,000 miles would be better. Then do another 10,000 miles then do a uoa as mentiones a uoa will just show break in wear. Remember syn oil shouldn't need changing at dino oil intervals.
 
Fourload, Thanks for the info'. I also have a 09 G37 and
plan to go with Redline around 10K. You're not the first
to mention better throttle response from the VVEL system
using esther. Ester appears to built pressure a little
faster in the VVEL actuator as compared to other oils.
This appears to be one engine that oil makes a very
immediate and noticible difference in. I'm using the
Nissan Ester only because Nissan gave me a three year
service agreement after I provided lengthy feedback about
their oil recommendations for the 3.7 VVEL, I won't
be paying $12.50/quart for their oil after that. I quickly
came to the same decision as you to use Redline at less
than $9/quart. Can't wait to see your UAOs. I plan on
posting UAOs of my Nissan Ester so that the Z and G
owners can figure out what really works best in these
new VQs. The VVEL system in the new 3.7 is considerably
different then the VVEL system in the 3.5 and I think wer're
seeing noticable differences from various oils.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
I thought high zddp levels was hard on cats. Over 1000 PPM?


So they say, but then again most RL grades are less volatile than any API oil.
 
Originally Posted By: tenderloin
Next time try Amazon. $117-119 shipped




I am currently awaiting shipment of four cases of Redline from a tiny shop on the East Coast. The price breaks down to 7.85 per shipped. I'll let the folks know what transpires.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
I thought high zddp levels was hard on cats. Over 1000 PPM?


In your 31 years of M1 usage, you've ran oils with roughly that much ZDDP. Did you have an inordinate amount of catalytic converter problems with the older M1 formulations?
 
Originally Posted By: e55amgbenz007
Originally Posted By: tenderloin
Next time try Amazon. $117-119 shipped




I am currently awaiting shipment of four cases of Redline from a tiny shop on the East Coast. The price breaks down to 7.85 per shipped. I'll let the folks know what transpires.


That's the best price I have heard so far. Better than ogracing. Care to share the name?
 
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Originally Posted By: tig1
I thought high zddp levels was hard on cats. Over 1000 PPM?


In your 31 years of M1 usage, you've ran oils with roughly that much ZDDP. Did you have an inordinate amount of catalytic converter problems with the older M1 formulations?


I did have to replace both cats on my old 96 Merc GM. Cats out of calibration. I'm not saying it was the oil. My first car with M1 was 77 Chevy V8 but I burned out the cat with leaded fuel. Why are the auto manf. requiring the SM? Isn't it for cat protection? I'm learning on this one since I know nothing about the cat problems with the older formulations. SJ, SL, etc.
 
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