Oil mix for ZRX1200R, what say you?

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Originally Posted By: whitesands
Just offering a humble little clarification...The potential exists for higher additives with a previous rating but it doesn't always guarantee it..There are SM's that have stronger levels than oils going back to SG...Really it takes comparing them individually to find out for sure...When you start thinking about all the nuances, variables, and ranges with oil it becomes a tedious subject.


Yup, it was tedious...you got that right.
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Uh, the Blackbird was not released until 1996, guys...

The 1993 ZX-11D Ninja was the fastest, quickest, etc. production motorcycle, the undisputed "King of the Hill", until the CBR1100XX came along.

I know: I own one, and it is still pretty quick & fast for a bike that will be old enough to vote in a couple years.

Cheers!

p.s. I've been using Amsoil AMO 10W-40, ARO 20W-50 and AME 15W-40 for years and they all work wonderfully in Kawasaki water-cooled fours! Back to the subject of the post!
 
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Yes you are right on 1996.

The ZX-11D then the Blackbird then the Hayabusa then the ZX-14, then Hayabusa Gen 2.

Kinda crazy when you think about it. When a 25mph accident can kill you. But I still wouldnt want to give up my Gen 2 Hayabusa engine
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I was only going about 40 mph a couple of weeks ago when a brainless 20-something in her "OH! SO politically-correct(um)" Prius pulled out of a parking lot (without even a glance in my direction) at about 15 mph directly in front of me... I missed her by about 4" by going into the oncoming lanes of traffic.

Closest thing to a pure T-Bone I've ever experienced.

She didn't even stop to see if I was allright, which I was. When I caught up to her and pulled her over to express my displeasure with her reckless, criminally negligent behavior, her wimpy little boyfriend tried to explain that "She didn't SEE you!"

SHE NEVER F-----G! LOOKED, DID SHE?
 
Originally Posted By: Norm Olt
I was only going about 40 mph a couple of weeks ago when a brainless 20-something in her "OH! SO politically-correct(um)" Prius pulled out of a parking lot (without even a glance in my direction) at about 15 mph directly in front of me... I missed her by about 4" by going into the oncoming lanes of traffic.
Closest thing to a pure T-Bone I've ever experienced.
She didn't even stop to see if I was allright, which I was. When I caught up to her and pulled her over to express my displeasure with her reckless, criminally negligent behavior, her wimpy little boyfriend tried to explain that "She didn't SEE you!"
SHE NEVER F-----G! LOOKED, DID SHE?

THEY ARE TRYING TO KILL US.
THEY ARE TRYING TO KILL US.
THEY ARE TRYING TO KILL US.
THEY ARE TRYING TO KILL US.

Words to (hopefully) live by...
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Originally Posted By: OilGuy2

Sorry about any inaccuracy...it was my honest recollection but apparently some Kawasaki wishful thinking or marketing hype was dovetailed into what I recall reading.

Thank you for the details and your answer on oils.




I think you're wise to look for the best oil possible for that engine. Everything about them makes me think they'll be very hard on oil. The rocker arm setup, chain driven accessories etc.

The first UOA on my '03 Concours was horrible. It was some unknown type and weight of Valvoline. I replaced it with M1 Racing 4T 10W-40. I'm hoping the next one won't be so scary by using what's understood to be a better oil. We'll see.
 
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I think you're wise to look for the best oil possible for that engine. Everything about them makes me think they'll be very hard on oil. The rocker arm setup, chain driven accessories etc.

The first UOA on my '03 Concours was horrible. It was some unknown type and weight of Valvoline. I replaced it with M1 Racing 4T 10W-40. I'm hoping the next one won't be so scary by using what's understood to be a better oil. We'll see. [/quote]

jsharp:
And as you know, the ZX-11, Concours and ZRX are based upon the same DOHC design with two oil pumps, a solid bottom end, and a secondary balancer to reduce vibration. You hit the nail on the head....I am looking for the best lubricant with an eye towards smooth shifting, predictable clutching (not grabby and not slippery), quiet valve train and the convenience of once a 5000 mile season oil and filter change in November/December for the off-season.

At the present time, I got some Mobil 1 products and have quite a stash of M1 to work with. I also have two gallons of Shell Rotella T CI-4+ as well.

I have used the Rotella 5W-40 synthetic before but I was compelled to remove it at 4950 miles. The shifting just was not as smooth as it could have been. It had gotten so clunky I thought the tranny was giving trouble, but it was the oil. I also did not enjoy hearing the valve train for several minutes every day until the oil warmed up.

After the Rotella I tried 4 liters of 10W-40 Motul 5100 which shifted the transmission so easily that when I hit a solid bump, the transmission would shift gears just from the weight of the shifter arm's inertia!!! That was too easy, so I removed the Motul 500 the same day I put it in.

Then I blended 2 liters of 10W-40 Motul 5100 ester with 1 quart of Spectro Platinum 15w-50 and 1/2 quart of Golden Spectro 4 20W-50 blend. This toned the Motul's shifting characteristic down and made shifting and clutching smooth and predictable. The lubricants used also gave the motorcycle superior protection based upon Amsoil's testing of those oils. I kept that mix in for 4689 miles and changed it before winter but I had no dissatisfaction with it. Cleanest looking oil I had ever removed and the filter looked really good too. I should have sent it out for a UOA.

I am currently running the remaining 2 liters of Motul 5100 with another quart of Spectro Platinum 15W-50 and the last 1/2 quart of Golden Spectro 4 blend. When I look inside the motor it is clean as a whistle and looks like a little thin amber to light brown pancake syrup in the case.

Another thing I liked about the combination is that the valve train was as quiet as a church mouse...no ticking, not even when cold! As you can see, I've had a really positive experience by customizing oil for the characteristics I wanted.

Although M1 Racing 4T 10W-40 would do the job, it isn't as quiet as a M1 V-Twin 20W-50 for the valve train and chain driven DOHC. However, the V-Twin oil is too thick for colder weather. The M1 15W-50 Silver Cap and M1 5W-40 TDT will fill out the crankcase and provide characteristics for lower temperatures.

Because the 20W-50 V-Twin is such a robust oil and the 10W-40 Racing 4T is supporting the viscosity at 40, I will be surprised if the viscosity falls below 40.

I am aware of the shearing that occurs with the 15W-50. IMO, Mobil could use a viscosity index improver (VII) that has the characteristic of Shell's Rotella T 5w-40: SHEAR RESISTANT.
If Mobil continues to produce a 15W-50 with a significant shearing problem that remains uncorrected, bikers will look elsewhere, as will I.

Thank you for your post, BTW.
 
why ... ?

i mean, can't you just use 3.7 gallons of good oil and ride her?

walmart ... a couple of jugs of rotella, 15W40 is like $13, 5W40 is $19

the internet ... a couple of jugs of amsoil

plenty of choices in between without trying to brew some homemade concoction

fwiw, i've used a small variety of oils too, just not all at once

and it doesn't matter if you think the ZRX is a race bike or not
... are you racing it and breaking it down after each race?

no ... ?

then it's not a race bike
 
"are you racing it and breaking it down after each race?

no ... ?then it's not a race bike"

That's a logical conclusion. Uncommonly rare it would appear.

I also agree with your perspective concerning the unnecessary requirement to brew up home made oil mixtures to satiate the unique demands of a particular engine. What I find humourous is that there are likely hundreds of thousands of the very same engine out there doing just fine with normal oil blends. However, this engine has special needs.... Go figure.

Kind of funny how one's perspective can be warped by an over active imagination combined with too little mechanical understanding.
 
You are right.
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It is not used as a race bike, except in heavy traffic. But it is MY bike. Some people are not fussy about their ride. I am. And its MY $$$. I can spend them any way I chose Not to.

When I find a lubricant that fulfills all the characteristics I want, as I related in my last post, I will use it. Mobil may not be a lasting choice if they keep fooling around with their products. (i.e They are replacing some PAO's with type III oils.)

So far, excuse me for the sacrilege, Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 stills leave much to be desired in my motorcycle.
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The valve train is too noisy until the oil heats up. I've had several others that were much less noisy.

Very cold start noise indicates the oil runs off the bare metal because there is no affinity for that metal. It may pump up quick, but its still pretty dry if unused for a few days.

Lastly, the Rotella shifts OK but not great. It doesn't shift predictably smooth and it sometimes blows the shift. I know this because a change to a proper oil MIX eliminated missed shifts and restored smoothness to the transmission.

I liked the Rotella for efficient power delivery and the clutch performance. But it clearly gives the impression that the valve train and transmission are getting beat up.

Noise=wear. Missed shifts=wear. Anyone disagree?

The exact fit I expect is no different than a runner for his shoes or a bicyclist for his ride. Exact fit is part of the reason that motorcycles get customized so much.

That's what's nice about an API approved oil: they can be mixed to obtain different characteristics.
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If the M1 mix does not work right, I'll have to try something else. One of my objections to Mobil 1, Amsoil and Maxima's "motorcycle oils" however is that they cost too much for MY riding season. $50-60 a year for oil and filter is ridiculous IMHO. $25-30 is acceptable.

I've already had several experiences with oil that cost a lot but so far they haven't fulfilled the bill.

That's why.
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I'm having a bit of trouble understanding the engine noise = wear assumption. You claim the valve train makes noise when cold and stops when warm. The sound of a valve opening and closing would most likely be from the spring force causing the valve to contact the valve seat. Oil has nothing to do with that. On a dohc engine, the cams usually contact buckets on shims sitting on the top of the valve stem. The meeting of the cam and bucket will make a bit of noise no matter what oil you are using. If you're hearing a tapping noise while the engine is cold, it's likely due to the cold clearance between the cam and bucket. As the engine heats up, the clearance is reduced as well as the cam/bucket contact noise. If the tapping noise goes away completely, that's not necessarily a good thing. On the contrary, it may very well be a bad thing. If the clearance between the cam and bucket isn't sufficient, the noise will virtually disappear because there is no lash. If there is no lash when the engine is hot, there's a good chance the valve(s) may not be closing completely. Here's a helpful tip: "Slappy valves are happy valves."

In my long history of owning small engines on many different machines, if there was a noise issue, it never had anything to do with the oil.

As far as missing a shift, I'd be a little embarrassed blaming it on the oil..... I've never had fresh oil cause shifting issues. Sure I've had oil near the end of it's useful service life that would let me know that the transmission wasn't liking it. However, missing shifts was usually due to not exerting enough force on the shift lever. Think about it. If I ride for a few hours and make a hundreds normal shifts and miss one or two, is it really the fault of the oil? If so, why wouldn't I be missing many more shifts? Old oil might reduce how slick a transmission shifts. However, with a minor adjustment of foot effort, shifts shouldn't be missed. New oil of any type has never caused me shifting issues.
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
"are you racing it and breaking it down after each race?

no ... ?then it's not a race bike"

That's a logical conclusion. Uncommonly rare it would appear.

I also agree with your perspective concerning the unnecessary requirement to brew up home made oil mixtures to satiate the unique demands of a particular engine. What I find humourous is that there are likely hundreds of thousands of the very same engine out there doing just fine with normal oil blends. However, this engine has special needs.... Go figure.

Kind of funny how one's perspective can be warped by an over active imagination combined with too little mechanical understanding.


Kind of funny how your inability to perceive subtleties of operation due to manufacturing variations and over confidence in your own mechanical knowledge results in making negative assumptions and displaying intolerance while exhibiting a lack of imagination. You are also
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Originally Posted By: boraticus
I'm having a bit of trouble understanding the engine noise = wear assumption. You claim the valve train makes noise when cold and stops when warm. The sound of a valve opening and closing would most likely be from the spring force causing the valve to contact the valve seat. Oil has nothing to do with that. On a dohc engine, the cams usually contact buckets on shims sitting on the top of the valve stem. The meeting of the cam and bucket will make a bit of noise no matter what oil you are using. If you're hearing a tapping noise while the engine is cold, it's likely due to the cold clearance between the cam and bucket. As the engine heats up, the clearance is reduced as well as the cam/bucket contact noise. If the tapping noise goes away completely, that's not necessarily a good thing. On the contrary, it may very well be a bad thing. If the clearance between the cam and bucket isn't sufficient, the noise will virtually disappear because there is no lash. If there is no lash when the engine is hot, there's a good chance the valve(s) may not be closing completely. Here's a helpful tip: "Slappy valves are happy valves."

In my long history of owning small engines on many different machines, if there was a noise issue, it never had anything to do with the oil.

As far as missing a shift, I'd be a little embarrassed blaming it on the oil..... I've never had fresh oil cause shifting issues. Sure I've had oil near the end of it's useful service life that would let me know that the transmission wasn't liking it. However, missing shifts was usually due to not exerting enough force on the shift lever. Think about it. If I ride for a few hours and make a hundreds normal shifts and miss one or two, is it really the fault of the oil? If so, why wouldn't I be missing many more shifts? Old oil might reduce how slick a transmission shifts. However, with a minor adjustment of foot effort, shifts shouldn't be missed. New oil of any type has never caused me shifting issues.


Well now you know that a valve train can be noisy with one oil and be quiet with another oil.

You also know that some oils will stick to the machinery and some oils just slide off of it.

And you know that periods of inactivity will cause some oils to run off an engine completely, particularly when parked on their kickstand that leans the engine towards the cam chain's tunnel, leaving a DOHC design wanting for top end lubricant at start-up a week later.

All of this is due to the oil choice and not lash in the system. Change the oil and everything quiets down, even when cold and even after a week's inactivity.

The cam lobes act upon pivoted rocker arms and the rocker arms push on the shims and buckets. The rocker arm multiplies the lift on the cam. It can get quite noisy because there are more moving parts, but the lash is OK.

As far as shifts are concerned, I'll tolerate a missed shift on a country road but in high traffic it is dangerous. I have found one mix that virtually eliminates the problem. With the Rotella, the transmission would sometimes create a false neutral. Just too much friction from the oil.

This is the first motorcycle that has been fussy about oil. I go back to when HD's, Triumph, BSA, Norton, and Royal Enfield were all OHV: when 2-cycles "tried" to rule the world and then got legislated out of existence and Honda's Top Gun was a 305cc Superhawk.
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IMHO, I wouldn't do the mix at all even though it would probably be just fine as all those oils are compatible and they are just plain good oils...If it were me, I would just pick a quality oil (whether it be synthetic or conventional), get the correct the viscosity for the temp range suggested by your manual, and not worry about it and just deal with the expense of whatever you choose.
 
Originally Posted By: OilGuy2


jsharp:
And as you know, the ZX-11, Concours and ZRX are based upon the same DOHC design with two oil pumps, a solid bottom end, and a secondary balancer to reduce vibration. You hit the nail on the head....I am looking for the best lubricant with an eye towards smooth shifting, predictable clutching (not grabby and not slippery), quiet valve train and the convenience of once a 5000 mile season oil and filter change in November/December for the off-season.

At the present time, I got some Mobil 1 products and have quite a stash of M1 to work with. I also have two gallons of Shell Rotella T CI-4+ as well.


Thank you for your post, BTW.


I hope you get a few UOA's of the different mixes you try. It seems like there's a lot of focus on this on this board about how much an oil shears or how much it costs. Less on things like noise and shifting quality and very little on actual wear.

It would be nice to see some different oils compared with the same bike and rider.

I might do be able to do that with my Concours. I haven't decided yet on want oil I want to use long term. But with as little as I ride I'm not sure it would tell us much other than which one protects best during storage.
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