I have 70k on a 05 element and the rotors are kind of rusty. Never had the brakes done but I'm going to replace the pads tonight. Is it a good idea to do the rotors at the same time or should these ones last through another set of pads? I know that you cant see them but I dont have a micrometer. I was planning on just cleaning them up with brake cleaner and green scrubby pads.
How long do rotors last?
- Thread starter ryland
- Start date
- Status
all depends on the vehicle, driving habits, etc. i have seen cars go 250k miles on teh factory rotors, and like on my Volvo im replacing the rotors every 20k miles.
if the pedal doesn't pulsate, you might assume they are still true. a good scrubbing w/ a scoth brite pad may do them up good.
if however, they are grooved, a new set of rotors would be in order.
if however, they are grooved, a new set of rotors would be in order.
When you say "rusty" what to you really mean? There will never be any rust where the pads hit the rotor. Even small groves will impact braking, the cleaning you will do with your green scruffy pads will take off any glaze at best.
Even the cheapest rotors at AZ will be better than what you have. But as other have said, if you are not pulsating, then maybe you can get away with just pads. Having the rotors resurfaced would be better but then again sometimes after that they warp.
The right way is good pads, cheap rotors.
Even the cheapest rotors at AZ will be better than what you have. But as other have said, if you are not pulsating, then maybe you can get away with just pads. Having the rotors resurfaced would be better but then again sometimes after that they warp.
The right way is good pads, cheap rotors.
The areas swept by the pads will not be rusty.
If you do not see a lip on the edge of the rotor, chances are the rotor is still serviceable.
As the others have mentioned, as long as you have no excessive grooving or pedal pulsation, clean/lubricate the caliper hardware and install a new set of pads. There is no need to use brake cleaner and scotchbrite to scrub the old rotor.
If you do not see a lip on the edge of the rotor, chances are the rotor is still serviceable.
As the others have mentioned, as long as you have no excessive grooving or pedal pulsation, clean/lubricate the caliper hardware and install a new set of pads. There is no need to use brake cleaner and scotchbrite to scrub the old rotor.
Are the pads worn out?
Normally you should not install new pads on an old rotor, or new rotor with old pads. Poor performance and glazing of the rotor or pads will result. You should only wed new surfaces. They are then together 'til death do them part.
If your rotors have lots of material remaining, I would have them resurfaced by a reputable shop and install the pads then.
If
1. NO significant judder or pulsation through the pedal
2. NO vibration or shimmy when you apply the brakes
3. Stopping performance is normal
4. There is still material on the pads
5. Rotor thickness is within limits
then you do not need to replace anything--yet.
If you start to see any of the above in a minor way, or if the pads are thin, plan to replace the rotors and the pads together if you can.
Hope this helps. Please don't skimp on brakes.
Normally you should not install new pads on an old rotor, or new rotor with old pads. Poor performance and glazing of the rotor or pads will result. You should only wed new surfaces. They are then together 'til death do them part.
If your rotors have lots of material remaining, I would have them resurfaced by a reputable shop and install the pads then.
If
1. NO significant judder or pulsation through the pedal
2. NO vibration or shimmy when you apply the brakes
3. Stopping performance is normal
4. There is still material on the pads
5. Rotor thickness is within limits
then you do not need to replace anything--yet.
If you start to see any of the above in a minor way, or if the pads are thin, plan to replace the rotors and the pads together if you can.
Hope this helps. Please don't skimp on brakes.
Im 125K on factory brakes and rotors. I inspect them frequently rotors are in good condition. However, I drive a stick and I down shift to slow down soo.
The parts store wants $10 per rotor to turn so thats why I was not going to do that. New rotors are $28 a piece. The rotors are smooth, I have no brake shimmy, the pads are low but not into the wear indicator, The rotors are rusty but on the edges and on the hub part but I dont think that matters. Hmm I dont know what to do.
all rotors are stamped with a minimum thickness
measure carefully before cutting.
measure carefully before cutting.
ryland:
In general, rust on rotors and on the outside of hubs doesn't hurt anything.
If I were you I would wait for the wear indicator. I would have some new high quality pads in the garage. When I first heard the wear indicator, I would inspect the rotors and use a caliper to check thickness in a couple of places. I would compare the current thickness to the thickness of a new rotor to get a "percent life". If the rotor surface still looked beautiful and perfect, just is 50% worn out, then I might scrub the surface, install some new good quality pads and wait for the rotor to be so worn that it gets warm one day and warps on me. At that point I would want to start over with new rotors and pads.
To me the ideal brake situation is when a new set of pads and rotors wears out all at once at more than 40K, with no noticable warping or fading in normal use. I then replace all with the best quality parts I can afford, and start over.
In general, rust on rotors and on the outside of hubs doesn't hurt anything.
If I were you I would wait for the wear indicator. I would have some new high quality pads in the garage. When I first heard the wear indicator, I would inspect the rotors and use a caliper to check thickness in a couple of places. I would compare the current thickness to the thickness of a new rotor to get a "percent life". If the rotor surface still looked beautiful and perfect, just is 50% worn out, then I might scrub the surface, install some new good quality pads and wait for the rotor to be so worn that it gets warm one day and warps on me. At that point I would want to start over with new rotors and pads.
To me the ideal brake situation is when a new set of pads and rotors wears out all at once at more than 40K, with no noticable warping or fading in normal use. I then replace all with the best quality parts I can afford, and start over.
If rust is excessive on the internal vanes, it can cause anomalies in how the rotor heats up and this can cause problems. Also, this rust can actually push/pull and change the shape of the rotor.
Real old ones exhibit these problems , sometimes.
Newer cars have smaller brakes -they work harder and get hotter.
I prefer getting new rotors.
But if you are going to cut them, make sure they cut them true and straight, with a good pattern [not rough].
And torque the wheels, don't just air gun them on.
Get the best pads that you can afford.
Real old ones exhibit these problems , sometimes.
Newer cars have smaller brakes -they work harder and get hotter.
I prefer getting new rotors.
But if you are going to cut them, make sure they cut them true and straight, with a good pattern [not rough].
And torque the wheels, don't just air gun them on.
Get the best pads that you can afford.
In his current brake fluid thread, Ryland mentions that he bought Duralast Gold Cmax.....that's about $60 including tax.
If I were investing that much in pads, I would have the old rotors measured to make sure they were worthy. That would end your doubts.
Otherwise, you have to think about cost/benefits. 70 K is a good run, and maybe you can get another 5K out of the current pads/roters, then start all new. If your old rotors poo out in 10K, but the new pads still look good, AZ won't warranty them. Then you would have to consider putting used pads on new rotors. An endless cycle of mixing old and new.
Also, FYI, I've had numerous instances when the wear indicators never worked. Keep an eye on things.
Here is an article by Larry Carly to chew your teeth on. It's long, so scan and read the relevant info. Check out his other articles linked at the bottom. But, remember, he is just expressing HIS opinion and don't consider it the gospel.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf110322.htm Everyone, the 2008 update at the bottom is worth looking at...I think.
If I were investing that much in pads, I would have the old rotors measured to make sure they were worthy. That would end your doubts.
Otherwise, you have to think about cost/benefits. 70 K is a good run, and maybe you can get another 5K out of the current pads/roters, then start all new. If your old rotors poo out in 10K, but the new pads still look good, AZ won't warranty them. Then you would have to consider putting used pads on new rotors. An endless cycle of mixing old and new.
Also, FYI, I've had numerous instances when the wear indicators never worked. Keep an eye on things.
Here is an article by Larry Carly to chew your teeth on. It's long, so scan and read the relevant info. Check out his other articles linked at the bottom. But, remember, he is just expressing HIS opinion and don't consider it the gospel.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf110322.htm Everyone, the 2008 update at the bottom is worth looking at...I think.
I decided to change the factory brakes on my old 2001 Ranger at 70K miles. It didn't really need them, but I did it anyway. Unfortunately I just used cheap Chinese rotors and they started to warp in a little over 10K miles.
My 2002 truck was originally owned by my parents. They had the pads replaced and rotors turned at 30K miles because the dealer told them to (I advised against it). I bought the truck at 49K miles and the rotors were warped by 60K miles. The pads were still good so I decided to stretch them out as long as I could. At about 82k miles the noise from the pads and the warped rotors were driving me crazy. It has new EBC Ultimax brake rotors and Motorcraft pads now. I'm hoping I might be able to get 80K-100K out of the current pads and rotors.
It's going to vary a lot by vehicle and driver though.
My 2002 truck was originally owned by my parents. They had the pads replaced and rotors turned at 30K miles because the dealer told them to (I advised against it). I bought the truck at 49K miles and the rotors were warped by 60K miles. The pads were still good so I decided to stretch them out as long as I could. At about 82k miles the noise from the pads and the warped rotors were driving me crazy. It has new EBC Ultimax brake rotors and Motorcraft pads now. I'm hoping I might be able to get 80K-100K out of the current pads and rotors.
It's going to vary a lot by vehicle and driver though.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Quote:
How long do rotors last?
If they're designed (spec'd) correctly for the application ..and you drive like you believe that replacing them is something to be avoided, ..forever.
If you drive like the car is a mule doing a thoroughbred's job ..and that driving as fast as you can between braking events is something you're supposed to do ...not long at all.
I've yet to replace rotors on my wife's jeep in 90k. The only reason it's not the 140k on the odometer is due to having to have some specially machined to fit the Warn hub kit I installed (which is also a reason why I have good cause to avoid changing them now). On my jeep, the OEM are on their @ 80k. They needed to be turned due to my oldest daughter driving it for a good bit early on. Both have the OEM assembly line rear shoes.
No, this isn't some unicorn of automotive revelation. It just takes preemptive pad changes and sensible driving habits.
How long do rotors last?
If they're designed (spec'd) correctly for the application ..and you drive like you believe that replacing them is something to be avoided, ..forever.
If you drive like the car is a mule doing a thoroughbred's job ..and that driving as fast as you can between braking events is something you're supposed to do ...not long at all.
I've yet to replace rotors on my wife's jeep in 90k. The only reason it's not the 140k on the odometer is due to having to have some specially machined to fit the Warn hub kit I installed (which is also a reason why I have good cause to avoid changing them now). On my jeep, the OEM are on their @ 80k. They needed to be turned due to my oldest daughter driving it for a good bit early on. Both have the OEM assembly line rear shoes.
No, this isn't some unicorn of automotive revelation. It just takes preemptive pad changes and sensible driving habits.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
If you drive like the car is a mule doing a thoroughbred's job ..and that driving as fast as you can between braking events is something you're supposed to do ...not long at all.
Absolutely!
IMO, driving habits have a HUGE impact on brake wear (and gas mileage).
FWIW, I've driven 70+K in my old Accord since buying it 5 years ago, and I have yet to change the pads. Judging by the wear rate they've got at least another 40K to go! I've never been terribly aggressive behind the wheel and over the last ~2 years have made even more of an effort to anticipate traffic and stop lights. I guess I'm a 'hypermiler,' although I'm hesitant to use the term since I don't share their obsessive-compulsive dedication. (You won't see me pushing the dumb car across a parking lot!)
At the other extreme, I've seen new pads and rotors destroyed in 10K or less. Having carpooled with a girl with this 'talent,' I'm not surprised her poor car is in distress. Her driving 'style' was essentially binary - stomp the gas until it's time to stomp the brake. Ouch! Needless to say, her mileage was atrocious.
IMO, it seems likely that there's an critical temperature at which the materials weaken and begin to wear at an elevated rate. If you need to shed a lot of speed, it's best to do so as slowly as possible. This give the system time to dissipate heat.
Up until a few years ago, I assumed rotors were a lifetime component. Doh!
If you drive like the car is a mule doing a thoroughbred's job ..and that driving as fast as you can between braking events is something you're supposed to do ...not long at all.
Absolutely!
IMO, driving habits have a HUGE impact on brake wear (and gas mileage).
FWIW, I've driven 70+K in my old Accord since buying it 5 years ago, and I have yet to change the pads. Judging by the wear rate they've got at least another 40K to go! I've never been terribly aggressive behind the wheel and over the last ~2 years have made even more of an effort to anticipate traffic and stop lights. I guess I'm a 'hypermiler,' although I'm hesitant to use the term since I don't share their obsessive-compulsive dedication. (You won't see me pushing the dumb car across a parking lot!)
At the other extreme, I've seen new pads and rotors destroyed in 10K or less. Having carpooled with a girl with this 'talent,' I'm not surprised her poor car is in distress. Her driving 'style' was essentially binary - stomp the gas until it's time to stomp the brake. Ouch! Needless to say, her mileage was atrocious.
IMO, it seems likely that there's an critical temperature at which the materials weaken and begin to wear at an elevated rate. If you need to shed a lot of speed, it's best to do so as slowly as possible. This give the system time to dissipate heat.
Up until a few years ago, I assumed rotors were a lifetime component. Doh!
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
How long do rotors last?
If they're designed (spec'd) correctly for the application ..and you drive like you believe that replacing them is something to be avoided, ..forever.
If you drive like the car is a mule doing a thoroughbred's job ..and that driving as fast as you can between braking events is something you're supposed to do ...not long at all.
I've yet to replace rotors on my wife's jeep in 90k. The only reason it's not the 140k on the odometer is due to having to have some specially machined to fit the Warn hub kit I installed (which is also a reason why I have good cause to avoid changing them now). On my jeep, the OEM are on their @ 80k. They needed to be turned due to my oldest daughter driving it for a good bit early on. Both have the OEM assembly line rear shoes.
No, this isn't some unicorn of automotive revelation. It just takes preemptive pad changes and sensible driving habits.
+1
My wifes Explorer just passed 93,000 miles with original pads and rotors. The pads have about 25% material left. Rotors look new.
My Mazda has 72,000 miles. Also original pads and rotors. Pads are less than 50% worn. Rotors look new.
Not sure what the big secret to long lasting brakes is. We've never lived in a big city, maybe thats it?
Quote:
How long do rotors last?
If they're designed (spec'd) correctly for the application ..and you drive like you believe that replacing them is something to be avoided, ..forever.
If you drive like the car is a mule doing a thoroughbred's job ..and that driving as fast as you can between braking events is something you're supposed to do ...not long at all.
I've yet to replace rotors on my wife's jeep in 90k. The only reason it's not the 140k on the odometer is due to having to have some specially machined to fit the Warn hub kit I installed (which is also a reason why I have good cause to avoid changing them now). On my jeep, the OEM are on their @ 80k. They needed to be turned due to my oldest daughter driving it for a good bit early on. Both have the OEM assembly line rear shoes.
No, this isn't some unicorn of automotive revelation. It just takes preemptive pad changes and sensible driving habits.
+1
My wifes Explorer just passed 93,000 miles with original pads and rotors. The pads have about 25% material left. Rotors look new.
My Mazda has 72,000 miles. Also original pads and rotors. Pads are less than 50% worn. Rotors look new.
Not sure what the big secret to long lasting brakes is. We've never lived in a big city, maybe thats it?
Originally Posted By: stranger706
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
How long do rotors last?
If they're designed (spec'd) correctly for the application ..and you drive like you believe that replacing them is something to be avoided, ..forever.
If you drive like the car is a mule doing a thoroughbred's job ..and that driving as fast as you can between braking events is something you're supposed to do ...not long at all.
I've yet to replace rotors on my wife's jeep in 90k. The only reason it's not the 140k on the odometer is due to having to have some specially machined to fit the Warn hub kit I installed (which is also a reason why I have good cause to avoid changing them now). On my jeep, the OEM are on their @ 80k. They needed to be turned due to my oldest daughter driving it for a good bit early on. Both have the OEM assembly line rear shoes.
No, this isn't some unicorn of automotive revelation. It just takes preemptive pad changes and sensible driving habits.
+1
My wifes Explorer just passed 93,000 miles with original pads and rotors. The pads have about 25% material left. Rotors look new.
My Mazda has 72,000 miles. Also original pads and rotors. Pads are less than 50% worn. Rotors look new.
Not sure what the big secret to long lasting brakes is. We've never lived in a big city, maybe thats it?
I live in a big city with bad traffic. You have to do a lot of stop and go driving here. Also, my truck tows, gets mud on the brakes, and it has me behind the wheel. I consider pads and rotors a regular replacement thing, and am just fine changing them every 80K.
Rear brakes are another matter. I haven't touched the drums on my truck. They are all original and in good shape.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
How long do rotors last?
If they're designed (spec'd) correctly for the application ..and you drive like you believe that replacing them is something to be avoided, ..forever.
If you drive like the car is a mule doing a thoroughbred's job ..and that driving as fast as you can between braking events is something you're supposed to do ...not long at all.
I've yet to replace rotors on my wife's jeep in 90k. The only reason it's not the 140k on the odometer is due to having to have some specially machined to fit the Warn hub kit I installed (which is also a reason why I have good cause to avoid changing them now). On my jeep, the OEM are on their @ 80k. They needed to be turned due to my oldest daughter driving it for a good bit early on. Both have the OEM assembly line rear shoes.
No, this isn't some unicorn of automotive revelation. It just takes preemptive pad changes and sensible driving habits.
+1
My wifes Explorer just passed 93,000 miles with original pads and rotors. The pads have about 25% material left. Rotors look new.
My Mazda has 72,000 miles. Also original pads and rotors. Pads are less than 50% worn. Rotors look new.
Not sure what the big secret to long lasting brakes is. We've never lived in a big city, maybe thats it?
I live in a big city with bad traffic. You have to do a lot of stop and go driving here. Also, my truck tows, gets mud on the brakes, and it has me behind the wheel. I consider pads and rotors a regular replacement thing, and am just fine changing them every 80K.
Rear brakes are another matter. I haven't touched the drums on my truck. They are all original and in good shape.
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
Originally Posted By: stranger706
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
How long do rotors last?
If they're designed (spec'd) correctly for the application ..and you drive like you believe that replacing them is something to be avoided, ..forever.
If you drive like the car is a mule doing a thoroughbred's job ..and that driving as fast as you can between braking events is something you're supposed to do ...not long at all.
I've yet to replace rotors on my wife's jeep in 90k. The only reason it's not the 140k on the odometer is due to having to have some specially machined to fit the Warn hub kit I installed (which is also a reason why I have good cause to avoid changing them now). On my jeep, the OEM are on their @ 80k. They needed to be turned due to my oldest daughter driving it for a good bit early on. Both have the OEM assembly line rear shoes.
No, this isn't some unicorn of automotive revelation. It just takes preemptive pad changes and sensible driving habits.
+1
My wifes Explorer just passed 93,000 miles with original pads and rotors. The pads have about 25% material left. Rotors look new.
My Mazda has 72,000 miles. Also original pads and rotors. Pads are less than 50% worn. Rotors look new.
Not sure what the big secret to long lasting brakes is. We've never lived in a big city, maybe thats it?
I live in a big city with bad traffic. You have to do a lot of stop and go driving here. Also, my truck tows, gets mud on the brakes, and it has me behind the wheel. I consider pads and rotors a regular replacement thing, and am just fine changing them every 80K.
Rear brakes are another matter. I haven't touched the drums on my truck. They are all original and in good shape.
At 80k miles,I'd probably clean and re-adjust the rear drum bakes.
Originally Posted By: stranger706
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
How long do rotors last?
If they're designed (spec'd) correctly for the application ..and you drive like you believe that replacing them is something to be avoided, ..forever.
If you drive like the car is a mule doing a thoroughbred's job ..and that driving as fast as you can between braking events is something you're supposed to do ...not long at all.
I've yet to replace rotors on my wife's jeep in 90k. The only reason it's not the 140k on the odometer is due to having to have some specially machined to fit the Warn hub kit I installed (which is also a reason why I have good cause to avoid changing them now). On my jeep, the OEM are on their @ 80k. They needed to be turned due to my oldest daughter driving it for a good bit early on. Both have the OEM assembly line rear shoes.
No, this isn't some unicorn of automotive revelation. It just takes preemptive pad changes and sensible driving habits.
+1
My wifes Explorer just passed 93,000 miles with original pads and rotors. The pads have about 25% material left. Rotors look new.
My Mazda has 72,000 miles. Also original pads and rotors. Pads are less than 50% worn. Rotors look new.
Not sure what the big secret to long lasting brakes is. We've never lived in a big city, maybe thats it?
I live in a big city with bad traffic. You have to do a lot of stop and go driving here. Also, my truck tows, gets mud on the brakes, and it has me behind the wheel. I consider pads and rotors a regular replacement thing, and am just fine changing them every 80K.
Rear brakes are another matter. I haven't touched the drums on my truck. They are all original and in good shape.
At 80k miles,I'd probably clean and re-adjust the rear drum bakes.
They are self adjusting.
- Status
Similar threads
