2001 Integra GSR w/ 95K Miles Burning Oil for past 20K

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I've owned the car since new and have been burning oil for at least 20K miles in a manner serious enough to put black soot on the rear bumper, but have been using oil for at least 30K. Power seems good though.

The car does visibly smoke sometimes when accelerating when the engine is warm and it smokes fiercely when downshifted enough to hit the VTEC engagement point. I burn around 1 qt. every 1000 miles and sometimes more, dependent upon the age of the oil ("older" oil burns worse). I use 10W40 and change every ~3000 (I used to wait until 4000-5000 miles). I have used Auto-RX w/ no improvement.

I had a K&N filter from 15K miles up 'til last Jan., when the OEM cat died and the CEL for (emissions/secondary O2) went on (I put in a simulator after replacing the cat). Last compression check was at 35K miles and was over 210 in each cylinder.

I plan on dumping the car in the next year but don't want to rebuild or lose my *** when selling/trading it.
 
Are you sure the PCV valve is functioning properly? If in doubt, just replace it and see if that helps. If that doesn't help then I'd look into a 40 weight High Mileage oil to see if the seal conditioning agents cause less oil consumption. Sometimes more than one use of Auto-RX is necessary, so you may want to try that again but don't get your hopes up too much. I'd also try Lube Control to clean the ring packs and maybe that will cut down on oil consumption. If that doesn't do it, I'm out of ideas and your engine's rings/seals might just be too worn. Good luck, my fiance's 01' Civic has been burning oil lately and I'm struggling with stopping that myself. It burnt M1 10W-30 so I tried German Castrol and so far it is burning that as well. I need to plan a next step.
 
quote:

I've owned the car since new and have been burning oil for at least 20K miles in a manner serious enough to put black soot on the rear bumper

I see a lot of Integras around here exhibiting the exact same condition.
confused.gif

Not as new though.
 
Since your compression seems OK, I suspected an oil control ring issue.

What kind of 10W-40? Have you run a UOA?

I do also need to ask about the AutoRx - how many times? What did oil did you use for the flush? Did you follow the instructions perfectly?
 
"I do also need to ask about the AutoRx - how many times? What did oil did you use for the flush? Did you follow the instructions perfectly?"

x2

What Dino did you use for the clean and rinse? Did you do the "Double Treatment" since you were already burning oil?
 
I only used auto-RX once, since I figured I'd see at least some improvement if it was going to work. I ran it 2500 miles, adding the whole bottle 500 miles after an oil change and following up with dino oil (castrol) for the rinse, 3000 miles. I have no UOA.

I usually use Castrol or Penzoil and I seldom have the time to change my own oil, so I can't always be certain the specifics about the oil other than brand. Last time I changed it myself, in Sept., I used 2 quarts of castrol 10-40, 1 penzoil high-mileage 10-40, and 1 qt. of Castrol synthetic 10-40, rounded off by a half of some already open SJ-rated 10-40 oil my uncle had in his garage.

PCV valve is fine last I checked.

I have no idea what the current compression is, a lot has changed in 60K miles - mainly oil burning. This is next on my 'to do' list for early next year. BTW, the K&N filter was the AIR filter, not oil. I'm wondering if crap got into the engine and scored it up.
 
While not quite as bad as your car my Prelude started doing the same with 93k on it. 104k on it now. Tail pipe was carboned up (still is) and once in awhile there was some smoke for a minute after start up and always a nice black puff when engaging VTEC.

A lot of people here will disagree but for the last two OCIs I added OTC cleaners. 1st one was 16oz MMO around 500 miles before the oil change and the 2d was 16oz CD-2 Max about 300 miles prior to an oil change.

I also started adding 6oz of MMO to each fill up of fuel but did a shock dose of 32oz for a full tank of gas to start. I also dumped in 20oz of techron concentrate for the next tank followed with a full bottle of Gumout Regane in the tank thereafter (still adding the 6oz MMO).

Original Cat and O2 sensors. No more puffs of smoke during start up or acceleration, carbon is slowly clearing from the tailpipe too. Oil consumption is back to "like new" for a VTEC engine. About 1/2qt per 3k with liberal use of VTEC which uses a total loss oiling method, ie,. it gets burned after running through the variable cam.

Like you I never noticed a drop in power as the engine racked up miles nor have I noticed any signifigant increase in power after the treatments. The idle and overall smoothness has improved though and the hesitation in 1st is gone (5 speed stick). Forgot to mention that my car also has a K&N cone filter attached to an AEM CAI practically since new.

I plan to go back to full time Mobil 1 again or the new Pennz Platinum after this OCI.
 
What's "CD-2 Max"? I guess "MMO" is Marvel Mystery Oil; you can add this to the fuel as well as the oil?

I try to use Chevron gas, so I haven't used any fuel additives lately.
 
Ring seal issues are common on the b18c engine. I just rebuilt a 98 motor w/90k due to the same problem. The oil rings on b-series are shockingly low tension and stick easily. The other two compression rings may be a little worn but likely ok. This only shows up as oil burning/smoke, no loss in compression/leakdown or power for the most part.
 
I think you have to burn far more than 1 quart / 1000 miles to smoke visably.

Wouldn't a puff of black smoke indicate a momentary rich condition? I bet the PCM throws some extra fuel at the engine when in VTEC.
 
CZ-75, CD-2 Max is an oil supplement claiming to partially restock lost worn oil additives and act as a cleaning agent in the crankcase.

It came recommended from a couple of other forums I frequent and cost less than 3 bucks. It's not a flush per say, but something the manufacturer recommends adding with every oil change which I don't do. I used it purely as an extended run flushing agent.
 
i have a 01 lude. Hondas sports car burn oil, there is absolutely nothing you can do about it. a compression test will tell you that you will have a worn seal or something, but it doesnt matter, you would not spend the money it takes to fix the piston rings or whatever the problem is, becuase its just not worth it. have fun with the car., keep on checking the oil regularly, especially when smashing on it. just break it in really well(drive it hard) if you decide to rebuild the engine.of course people will debate what the best way to break it in, but eh.
this is the main reason why i join thi board fyi.
 
Just because the PCV still rattles, that doesn't mean it's working properly.

Use VSOT (Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment (gray 15oz bottle). Use entire bottle for the entire OC. Lube Control with it will really clean things up for you.
 
_____________________________
Then there's the issue of whether those cars really qualify as sports cars...
_____________________________

They are in my heart! I believe the politically correct terminology for the front wheel drive sports compact is "Sports Coupe".
 
quote:

i have a 01 lude. Hondas sports car burn oil, there is absolutely nothing you can do about it. a compression test will tell you that you will have a worn seal or something, but it doesnt matter, you would not spend the money it takes to fix the piston rings or whatever the problem is, becuase its just not worth it. have fun with the car.,

The original poster saw compression numbers of 210 for all four cylinders, are the seals worn? Wait a minute, do you mean to say the condition of valve seals can be discovered with a compression test? I'm not so sure about that...

My brother has a '99 Prelude that burns basically no oil at 140,000 miles. My '90 Integra burned less than 1 quart / 4000 miles when I got rid of it at 160,000 miles and I assure you we both "...smash on it...". Then there's the issue of whether those cars really qualify as sports cars...
 
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