How do you think Mobil 1 V-Twin will do?. . . .

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I just submitted a sample to Blackstone from a 2004 BMW R1150RT that was run 6942 miles with Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 over a period of 18 days. The miles were mostly highway with temps ranging from nearly 100F in the southwest to in the 40s going through Colorado and NM. There was some spirited riding through the Black Hills of SD also (when in Rome, right?) and a limited amount of stop / go riding in Las Vegas (I was glad to have the M1 in while in Vegas and Arizona).

The bike currently has 46737 miles on it and 0.5 qts. of make-up oil was used during this run.

How do you guys think the M1 VTwin held up? I'll post the results when I get them back. . .
 
Man, I did 9000 miles in a month but never 6942 in 18 days. I hope you had a good trip. I headed to the Pacific as you did. I had a YZF600R and did about 5500 on Yamalube before getting it changed in Oregon.

Anyway, being all highway and the fact you kept it topped up (although I doubt being .5q low would hurt anyway) I bet your wear numbers are good even though I don't read UOA, cuz I cant.

Anyhow, would 7k be about the point where after the oil shears to a lower weight, would this be about the time it would start to thicken?

Looks like you got back just in time to put her away for the cold winter you guys get.
 
Thanks for the input. . .it was a great trip. . .good weather for 95% of the trip and saw some parts of the country I'd never seen before.

I've been using the M1 V-Twin since about 15,000 miles. . .it's probably been overkill as I usually change the oil every 6000 miles. This will be the first oil sample I've ever done on the bike, so it should be interesting. I don't anticipate any indications of engine problems as it's a strong-running bike and I've had no engine issues with it (I bought it new in '04). . I'm more interested in how the oil held up to the extremes--I expect that it did pretty well as the boxer engine isn't that hard on oil (shearing) or so I'm told.

I try to ride every month of the year if the roads are clean, so I don't really "mothball" it for the season--it stays ready to ride all the time. Once the roads are sandy and salty--I'm done until it rains enough to wash it off.

I've heard that the M1 shears and then thickens, but I don't know at what point it does it. . it likely depends on the type of operation it sees. When I get the report, you guys will get it--the good, bad and the ugly!

Happy riding. . .
 
I would think it did well. Pretty hard to beat that oil so however it did I can't image any other oil would have done much better. Does this bike have a shared sump for the clutch?
 
Robster--

Six thousand miles to a change seems reasonable considering the oil's cost compared to what most motorcyclists do with less expensive oil.

Just out of curiosity, what is the longest OCI in TIME that you would accept with the M1 V-Twin 20w-50? Would you consider carrying the oil in the crankcase over the off-season if you had just 3000 miles on it as winter approached?

I'l be interested in what Blackstone reports back to you.
 
Eagle. . .no it doesn't have a shared sump with the tranny (I use Mobil 1 75-90 gear oil in the tranny and final drive).

Oilguy. . I never considered the TIME put on my oil as the miles seem to accumulate fast enough to make that irrelevant. As I stated earlier, I try to ride the bike year-round (at least once per month through the winter)--If the bike was gonna sit in storage unridden for 3+ months I'd want clean oil in it for that duration, regardless of the miles on the oil.
 
IMHO you are using the best MC oil on the market. Back in the good old days I had a 1982 BMW R100 and to go against everything that was pounded into my head, I ran Mobil 1 5W-20 (that's what it was back then) in that BMW for 146,000 miles doing 6K oil changes. That great bike survived many, many Texas summers.

You have a great bike and you are using a great oil in it. Keep it up.
 
I think the oil will look decent. I find the M1 20w50 to be much better than thier 10w40 offering.

I have used M1 V-twin in the past. If I was not using HDEO's I would use the M1 20w50. I wouldnt go as far as saying its the "best" MC oil, IMO Maxima and Motul syntetics are better especially when it comes to shearing.

Since you do not have a shared sump you can get away with longer OCI and a larger variety of oils than some other bikes.
 
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The Vtwin 20W50 usually does quite well with respect to shearing. The 15W50 on the other hand...not so good. Wear numbers are good with the 15W50 though and it keeps engines clean.

Some UOA from this site and others.

M1 20W50 V2

HD 1200 Evo, 2696 miles, cSt at 100C = 20.97
HD 1200 Evo, 3000 miles, cSt at 100C = 20.5
Kaw 250, 1237 miles, cSt at 100C = 17
HD TC Engine, 4978 miles, SUS at 210F = 92.4
HD TC Engine, 4000 miles, SUS at 210F = 105.5
HD TC Engine, 2200 miles, SUS at 210F = 96.8

M1 15W50

HD TC Engine, 2993 miles, cSt at 100C = 13.09
HD TC Engine, 2608 miles, cSt at 100C = 12.98
HD TC Engine, 3347 miles, cSt at 100C = 13.83
HD TC Engine, 2645 miles, cSt at 100C = 14.47
Honda CBR1000, 4345 miles, cSt at 100C = 12.53
Kaw 650, 3165 miles, cSt at 100C = 13.2
Kaw 250, 875 miles, cSt at 100C = 14.6
HD TC Engine, 2628 miles, SUS at 210F = 83.3
KTM 250, 6 hours, SUS at 210F = 76.5
Kaw 1200, 22 hours, SUS at 210F = 84.1
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny
IMHO you are using the best MC oil on the market. Back in the good old days I had a 1982 BMW R100 and to go against everything that was pounded into my head, I ran Mobil 1 5W-20 (that's what it was back then) in that BMW for 146,000 miles doing 6K oil changes. That great bike survived many, many Texas summers.

You have a great bike and you are using a great oil in it. Keep it up.


Johnny, did you really run 5w-20 in the old Beemer?
 
OK. . I have the results back, but I can't seem to figure out how to post the report. I went to the FAQs and it refers to a file manager utility that will allow file uploads, but that is NOT one of the buttons displayed on the toolbar. Any ideas?
 
I assume the results are in a pdf format now. I use the snapshot tool in Acrobat and highlight the area of the UOA you want to show, this takes a picture of that area and places it in the clipboard. Open MS Paint and paste the picture in. Now save the picture as a .jpeg file to your harddrive.

Now you need to open an account at a photo hosting sight like photobucket and upload the picture of the UOA. Photobucket will give you the VBB image code to insert into your new post.

Sounds allot more complicated than it actually is, good luck.
 
OK. .the above link seems to work. . .after clicking on the link you'll see the image--click on the magnify button on the upper, right area of the album page and you'll be able to read it better. You can drag the image around to see all the parts of it.
 
The UOA shows up just fine on the link. Results are as I expected. And that is not because I have some crytal ball or am an oil expert. It is right in line with other M1 Vtwin UOAs over the years. Good stuff, probably the best product in their line. People use it in high performance cars that get track time (despite the motorcycle on the label) for just this reason. My opinion for bikes using a 50 grade is M1 Vtwin, Amsoil MCV, Red Line, pick one for whatever reason and sleep well at night unless you can't bring yourself to spent $10 / Qt. Yes there are others that do quite well but just keeping it simple.

Interesting side note is that the M1 web site now lists this oil as a 17.7 cSt @ 100C and a pour point of -60F. Unless this is a misprint it seams they altered the formula a bit recently.
 
so wait a minute.

your susvis is really a 60wt? 106.606 is 60wt

i'm calling total BullShine on this one.

while your other numbers seem good, once again i dont think i could trust the stoners.
 
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