2006 dodge durango 4.7 engine

[aztec12]

My wifes durango is about to be out of warranty,we been doing dealers oil changes,but i want to start doing it my self.
oil cap says 5w30. truck has 32k on it.I was thinking semi or full synthetic 5w30 or 5w20?
She drives about 1k per month,she does not warm-up the engine its mostly start and go.

but o well.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: aztec12
My wifes durango is about to be out of warranty,we been doing dealers oil changes,but i want to start doing it my self.
oil cap says 5w30. truck has 32k on it.I was thinking semi or full synthetic 5w30 or 5w20?
She drives about 1k per month,she does not warm-up the engine its mostly start and go.

but o well.


Any name brand synthetic would be a good choice( Kendall, Penzoil, Valvoline, etc... ). If she starts and immediately heads off than a synthetic is a smart choice as it reaches full fow sooner than conventional( in cold temps )and leaves a film to help until full flow is achieved.

5W-30 in the warmer months and 0W-30 in the winter if you live up North( didn't check your local ). If you live in a warmer climate than 5W-30 year round. Actually, Kendall GT1 or Penzoil Platinum would be very good options.

 

[JohnBrowning]

I had excellent results with M1 5W30 and 10W30 during the winter. I also used M1 15W50 as my 5 Star Dealership which also sells about 3 Vipers a year used it in all the Viper's and recommended it in all the truck engines during the warm months. It liked almost anything synthetic I put in it. For the record the time it took for the oil pressure to come up to full pressure was the same int he warm months with 15W50 in it as it was during the cold months of winter with M1 5W30 in it.

Mine was made long before they went to 5W20 so I have no experience with it.The 4.7 has wear numbers like a Toyota V8 with the exception of Iron Iron is always high on them. The HO version shows lead but the normal version almost never shows any lead in UOA.