Use a 0w40 in place of 5w20 or 5w30 new car

[572ratt]

Would anyone here run a 0w40 Mobil 1 in a new car that calls for 5w20 or a 5w30, while it is in warranty yet? How about when it is out of warranty?

Would you run say a Mobil 1 0w40 if you lived in New England or the upper midwest?

How would a manufacturer know if you even used another weight oil if you needed warranty work?

 

[defektes]

Out of warranty only.

because you need to provide proof you did the oil change with a receipt.

Its better safe than sorry.

 

[Gilitar]

If it calls for 5w30 but you want a robust synthetic just use GC 0w30. This way the manufacturer can't say you used an oil outside the grade called for.

 

[IndyIan]

I don't think you'd ever have a warranty claim rejected because you ran M1 0W40, in an engine recommended for 5W30, even an oil related claim. 0W40 in a 5W20 engine might be asking for trouble as it sounds like a bad idea to the lay person...
Any particular reason to run 0W40? Are you racing or towing?
I just changed my oil today and put rotella T 5W40 into the Tracker for the winter, 5W30 is recommended but I like to have something stouter as we tow the snowmobiles and sometimes it gets worked fairly hard.

 

[candoo]

I've been using 0w-40 M1 in my 2000 odyssey van for the last couple of years. I know it's no longer a new vehicle, but it's only got 133,000 km on it and the engine is still like new. it calls for 5W-30. I ran 5w-30 M1 in it for the first 7 years. I noticed the engine always had a very faint mechanical clatter (probably from the valve train - adjusting the valves didn't help).

Anyway, like you, I thought i'd try the 0w-40 M1. The engine ever since has sounded better - less noisy. I have'nt noticed any fuel economy difference. I liked the european specs on the 0W-40 which basically makes it more robust long drain oil, and it does seem to get somewhat less dark and smelly after a six month drain interval than the API spec only 5w-30 M1. This to me says it's a better oil.

hope this helps.

 

[Eddie]

NO!!!!!!!!!

 

[candoo]

Also 572rat, I ran 0W-30 GC in a Toyota Echo that I had. Not a 0-40, but a thicker oil than 5w-30. Noticed too, that the engine operated a little quieter, and the oil stayed clean longer than the 5w-30 M1 I had been running in it, again attesting, I think, to the better quality of the euro spec oils.

 

[JohnBrowning]

Ignore the knuckle heads telling you to just use what it calls for. If we gave that advice to every subject any woman that was disease free would be worth marring and eating a protein and carb slurry with all the nutrients you needed would suffice no need for Gourmet or Chinese food or Pizza!!! These are people that live under a rock in fear that the sky is falling and make all of their decisions based on what could happen rather then what is likely and they almost never take any risk! What a life that must be! When it comes to running 0W40 in anything made int he last 20 years you have no worries and no fears and it is not a risk! If someone cars to disagree with me please show me all the mountains of failing car's running 0W40!!!!

Their is not a single 0W30 sold in America that has the base stocks that are in M1 0W40 I can not post the page indicating this information which is already in BITOG achieves because it is against the rules to post a locked page! Especially when some of the people that got unruly in that post are no regular members that post freq.! So yo have to search the page out yourself int he BITOG archive.

M1 0W40 is the most advanced thing sitting on a retail shelf to get anything better you have to pay a lot more and go to Amsoil Series 3000 or Redline. IF someone wants to dispute it they can find the page in the Archive with the base stock information for M1 0W40 and despite it chemically!

The GC is garbage from an additive stand point and base stock stand point. The only thing that makes it perform is the higher then normal HTHS that it gets from it's High End Synthetic European Gear LUbe based Viscosity Improvers it contains. I f I have to pay top dollar I want my money in base stocks and AW agents not in high tech Viscosity improvers!

 

[Mark_S]

John,

I'd like to read it, but I can't find it with the search function. How do I find the post? Can you copy and paste the relevant information about 0W40?

Mark

 

[tenderloin]

"If it calls for 5w30 but you want a robust synthetic just use GC 0w30. This way the manufacturer can't say you used an oil outside the grade called for".

Depends on the mfg. 0W-30 No SM or GF-4 spec?

API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4; VW 502 00, 505 00, 503 01; MB 229.1, 229.3, 229.5; BMW LL–01; GM–LLA–025, GM–LL–B–025 and the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF–3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils.

 

[21Rouge]

Originally Posted By: Gilitar
just use GC 0w30. This way the manufacturer can't say you used an oil outside the grade called for.


No but technically a domestic might take issue that it isn't energy conserving nor rated as SM.

 

[Gilitar]

Originally Posted By: 21Rouge
Originally Posted By: Gilitar
just use GC 0w30. This way the manufacturer can't say you used an oil outside the grade called for.


No but technically a domestic might take issue that it isn't energy conserving nor rated as SM.


Very true. Even though, I very seriously doubt they would even know to look beyond the weight once they saw Castrol Syntec on the receipt. Good point though!

 

[Gilitar]

I see no point in using M1 0w40 unless towing, racing, or running extended oil change intervals. M1 is also good for turbo charged applications such as my SRT-4. I too believe it to be the best oil on a retail shelf.

1000th post. Woohooo!!!!

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: 572ratt
Would anyone here run a 0w40 Mobil 1 in a new car that calls for 5w20 or a 5w30, while it is in warranty yet? How about when it is out of warranty?

Would you run say a Mobil 1 0w40 if you lived in New England or the upper midwest?

How would a manufacturer know if you even used another weight oil if you needed warranty work?


No, I'd use what the car calls for. If a mfg really wanted to find out what oil you used they ask for invoices, and send the oil out to a lab to verify. Now if they actually do that would depend on the mfg, dealership, and cost of the repair in question. Does it happen? It did where I worked a few times.

 

[wolfc70]

It all depends on the engine. Some like thicker oils, some do not. My 2000 Saturn LS1 with the 2.2l Ecotec did not like M1 0w-40 one bit, the timing chains rattled at hot idle. Once I switched to M1 5w-30, the rattling went away. My theory is that the thicker oil reduced flow to the already marginal timing chain tensioner and oilier, causing the noise. Some people on the Ecotec forums run 5w-20 with good results.

So find a grade that works best in your application, I do not believe there is one oil for all applications.

 

[mechtech2]

The situation is not quite as polarized and definite as John Browning states.
M1 0-40 is very good, but what is really gained from the switch for your car?
Maybe when racing full throttle when oil temps are at 240+ deg F?