ENEOS oil....

Status
Not open for further replies.
Quote:


Quote:


The Mitsu EVO, Subaru STi and Supra communities. Mynes Performance, an EVO tuning shop just recently had a dyno day where they changed your oil with ENEOS, and if you didn't make more HP on the dyno, you didn't have to pay. Most people made 6-9HP with TQ to match. Mynes shop/race car made 19RWHP. All run were done back to back. I may be trying it in my Supra next. A couple guys in the Supras club report smoother idling and running.




20 WHP from differen oil? Come on. Otherwise link please.



i was there that day, the entire day. ive seen all the dyno charts as well. i drove down just for that weekend, with an eneos representative, to be a part of this promotion. ive also been at other dyno pulls in las vegas where the 0w50, which is what mynes used as well, made big hp over very competetive oils. in fact, the worlds fastest streetable viper made over 50hp when he switched over to Eneos 0w50. and this is with the 0w50! if you have a n/a engine that doesnt require the 50w, you can make even more hp with the 0w20, which is what i personally run in my b16a that is fully built top to bottom.
 
50hp from a different oil? ABSOLUTELY IMPOSSIBLE. Something is fishy there. Read my above post on how easy it is to trick the dyno into giving higher numbers.

You'd be lucky if a switch from a 10w60 oil to a 0w20 even gave you 10hp on that Viper, let alone 50. There is absolutely no way any oil is going to give it 50 more horsepower.
 
COMPLETELY OT
offtopic.gif


I was looking at RABHonda's PROFILE

And I got a real chuckle.....he is never wrong. But he misspelled botanist.
banana.gif
fruit.gif
crushedcar.gif
offtopic.gif


Sorry. Carry on.
 
Quote:


The dyno operator must've been "in on it" because there are ways you can trick the dyno into showing higher numbers. There was a guy up here in Toronto who scammed a lot of people by putting a heater near the temperature sensor on the dyno, so the dyno sheet would show inflated numbers due to a higher correction factor. People had gotten their heads/cam packages from this guy and were amazed at the high rear wheel horsepower numbers he was getting. The numbers were 20-30 rwhp higher than they should've been.




laugh.gif
Was the head/cam package A.R.E.??
 
Currently running their 5w20 in our '07 Pilot. So far (after 500+ miles), mileage is up a point, engine seems slightly smoother. Only time will tell if the OC can be extended as with the maintenance minder that this vehicle has, if it will have those calculating clicks move any slower than it did with the petroleum based lube in the crankcase...
 
I am game...and will test the oil following whatever criteria that they want. This oil may be very good and a potential sponser. Could well be a contender of the top tier oils
box.gif
Will report back findings to BITOG as this transpires. Welcome-Eneos!
welcome.gif
 
Quote:


Quote:


The dyno operator must've been "in on it" because there are ways you can trick the dyno into showing higher numbers. There was a guy up here in Toronto who scammed a lot of people by putting a heater near the temperature sensor on the dyno, so the dyno sheet would show inflated numbers due to a higher correction factor. People had gotten their heads/cam packages from this guy and were amazed at the high rear wheel horsepower numbers he was getting. The numbers were 20-30 rwhp higher than they should've been.




laugh.gif
Was the head/cam package A.R.E.??




Yep! It was from ARE at the time when Nick sold the shop to Wade. A lot has happened since then though, and the shop is actually turning out some great stuff again, with no trickery and no substituting of cheap parts.

I have heard a lot of stories in the past where people paid big dollars for engines with high dollar parts in them, and later tore the motor down and found stock components in there!!
 
Quote:


50hp from a different oil? ABSOLUTELY IMPOSSIBLE. Something is fishy there. Read my above post on how easy it is to trick the dyno into giving higher numbers.

You'd be lucky if a switch from a 10w60 oil to a 0w20 even gave you 10hp on that Viper, let alone 50. There is absolutely no way any oil is going to give it 50 more horsepower.



so tell me exactly why oil can not allow an engine to become more effecient, which would translate into more powered being transferred into the drive train? i agree that oil can not make hp for an engine, you are absolutely correct. but, if one were willing to look in another direction, they could actually make sense of how it can happen. there are 3 key factors to an engine's ability to make hp, be it 100 or 1000hp. they are; volumetric, mechanical, and thermal effeciency. you can increase mechanical effeciency by reducing the amount of drag/friction that the internal parts create. this can be acheived 3 ways- reduce item weight, reduce contact patch, provide better lubrication. the first two ultimately lead to premature component failure if you have to work with a particular metal. but, it is fully possible to create or find a better lubricant that would allow less friction to be created between 2 surfaces. when this happens, the engine requires less power to turn its internals. voila, power is made by allowing the engine to deliver more, requiring less for itself (engine).

the msrp for 0w20 is $8.99.
 
It's because there is very little metal to metal contact in the motor. The resistance is mostly squeezing the oil through tight places. It's why light weights give better mileage but not more peak power. Under load the difference becomes even smaller and a smaller % of the total besides. Your talking 10% more power against well formulated oils when you wouldn't see that much of a neg. diff from a correct visc non-additized peanut oil for a short run.
 
Quote:


It's because there is very little metal to metal contact in the motor. The resistance is mostly squeezing the oil through tight places. It's why light weights give better mileage but not more peak power. Under load the difference becomes even smaller and a smaller % of the total besides. Your talking 10% more power against well formulated oils when you wouldn't see that much of a neg. diff from a correct visc non-additized peanut oil for a short run.



there is no other full synthetic on the market, which is what you are not understanding. dino oils are simple chains of molecules that get severed very easily under load, either from bearing surfaces or pressure within the oil pump. Eneos doesnt have that problem. it is comprised up of just single molecules, no chains, so no breaks. there are 2 very different molecules, one that expands with heat, and one that shrinks with heat. since these both balance out each other the oil remains stable under high load and cold weather.

here is a very simple test to determine if its a full synthetic or merely a blend- smell it. if it smells only like plastic, its a full synthetic. if it smells like oil, guess what?, it is oil. then dip a finger in both, and simply wipe away the excess. you will feel the eneos oil on your finger for quite some time, actually, quite longer than any other oil available to consumers.

but how can you dismiss these results if you were not a part of them, do not fully understand engines and how they make power, or simply have never tried, smelled, touched, or even seen a bottle of Eneos oil?
just a simple question with a simple answer. thank you.
 
Back in the old day we called that the bugger test. For those of you that have been around the oil industry for any length of time, you know what I'm talking about.

I will let my oil be tested in the lab not between my fingers, and if you smell plastic, your sniffing the bottle not the oil. I'm sure it's a great Group III synthetic, but it ain't magic.
 
Quote:


Back in the old day we called that the bugger test. For those of you that have been around the oil industry for any length of time, you know what I'm talking about.

I will let my oil be tested in the lab not between my fingers, and if you smell plastic, your sniffing the bottle not the oil. I'm sure it's a great Group III synthetic, but it ain't magic.



the 0w50 is a full synthetic. in fact, you are so ignorant you cant even understand that you can determine if an oil is full synthetic or a blend by simply smelling them. a full synthetic is going to smell like plastic because it is very similiar to plastic. but buy a bottle of 0w50 and get a voa done on it. ill bet you both the price of the bottle and the cost of the test, along with any shipping fees, that it is a far better product than you are currently using.

for more basic engine information, try this link, http://www.f1technical.net/articles/4.
 
rab why don't you provide us a VOA and base oil component? Is it ester based or PAO based? You can't tell by smelling it. Talk is cheap here.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top