ARX & Aluminum Engines

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We've all seen the good and bad post's on Autorx... virtually everyone says it cleaned the sludge, some have pointed out the residual varnish still on the engine parts and the waxy crystals in the filters...hmmm. I got to thinking about it, and during re - orders I have discussed this with Frank. As a result, I think Autorx has really benefited from all the feedback here on Bob's site.

Just think about it - First, the feedback lets Frank know just what Autorx will and won't do in automotive applications. I understand that autorx was invented for another industry, and I think all of the metal parts dealt with were cast iron or steel. In those applications, I'm pretty sure Frank DID see all varnish gone. If y'all notice, all of the engines that have been presented as still being varnished after Autorx's applications were aluminum heads, valve covers, and rockers. I got to thinking about it, and I think the porosity of the aluminum accepts the color and hold it much more tenaciously than cast iron. I see that everyday in my shop, when cleaning aluminum vs cast iron. I don't think frank had been exposed to this before, so the members here have really helped Frank learn what autorx's abilities and limitations are.

Also, some have posted pics of a waxy residue in the filters... I guess that got under Franks skin too, as we see he's gone back to the drawing board and upgraded the formulation. Frank has also revised the insructions, due to member feedback.

All in all, I see the feedback - both pro and con - to have helped Autorx become a better and more user friendly product. Someday Autorx will probably be much more widely available, and I see all the feedback on autorx here at Bob's site to be the best thing to happen for Autorx, and all of us who've come to know Autorx as the quality product it is... Steve


My background is in from another field of Auto-Rx type chemistry application. The machinery treated with this chemistry is composed of "Ferrous Metal" and post copied here is correct. Truthfully I never made the connection as to why stains are not being removed from certain engines. Thanks Steve
Toyota Steve
Junior Member
Member # 1791

posted September 11, 2003 09:24 PM
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Drew - your dipstick is steel. I have come to find that Autorx cleans all metals, but does better at removing varnish color from the cast iron and steel parts than it does from the aluminum. It must have something to do with the porosity of aluminum, and the ease with which aluminum varnishes. Because your dipstick is ferrous metal, like your block, crank and rods, it REALLY cleans up well with autorx. steve
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Posts: 23 | From: florida | Registered: Jul 2003 | IP: Logged |
e: Auto-rx as a varnish cleaner
Frank Offline


Registered: 05/28/02
Posts: 2164
Loc: Jacksonville Beach Fl
Auto-Rx will clean varnish off of cast iron most
metals during application process. Aluminum is the exception eventually it will come clean however not during the Auto-Rx application. Varnish is a cosmetic issue and does nothing to performance level.

I basically found these 3 posts way back in the oil additive section that discuss how arx does with aluminum. This is important since many engines out now not only have aluminum blocks but also aluminum cylinder heads.



Top
 
Our three engines have aluminium heads and one has an aluminium block. Most engines here have aluminium (alloy) heads and have done for yonks, RX does't differentiate between metals. Just worry about selecting the correct oil and driving it hot & hard for as long as possible. My 2c
 
Brent your post is convuluded Auto-Rx changes formullations bsed on hard data supplied by professionals.

We clean varnish sometimes slowly many times quickly (double overhead cam engine)

If we had opted to make a product for cosmetic removing of varnish we would not have ECO FRIENDLY PATENTED PRODUCT (solvents are not user
friendly)

Posting sections of old posts and interspersing them with your comments does nothing to spread knowledge.
 
Daryl, In case you forgot where you are posting this is BITOG not the Auto-RX site. Members here can post their opinions of Auto-RX and other additive products. We have a sponsor on the board that has an excellent additive. If members want more information concerning Auto-RX and your opinion of it they can visit Frank's web site.
 
Neutra Stories
Sin City Offline


Registered: 01/14/03
Posts: 509
Loc: Las Vegas, NV
I bought a used 1997 BMW 318i for my wife a few months ago. The car had about 67,000 miles. I purchased the car at night and the only thing I could not see clearly (too dark) was the inside of the motor while looking through the opening where you would pour motor oil into. When I checked the oil level a few days latter I noticed that the oil seemed very dark and also the oil dipstick was nearly impossible to remove. I had to pull so hard to remove the dip stick that I thought I might break something. After this I removed the oil filler cap and I saw that the motor had sever sludge and varnish.

Oil changes are required to be done when the oil change indicator tells you to do so. When I was at the BMW dealer to purchase two oil filters I was told that the oil change interval was either 7,500 or 10,000 miles for my car (when the light comes on) .It seems to me that the oil was kept in the car way past the time that it should have been changed. This car has BMW 15w-40 as its preferred viscosity.

After I got over the shock of the tremendous amount of sludge and varnish in the engine I drained about half a quart of oil and added 8 ounces of Neutra 131. The BMW dealer had overfilled the car when they changed the oil. I drove the car for about 350 miles and then drained the oil and I refiled it with Pennzoil 15w-40 and added five ounces of Neutra 131. Of course I also put a new oil filter on. About half of the sludge was gone after the last 350 miles with Neutra 131. After driving another 450 miles I drained the oil again and put in Mobil 1 0w-40 and a new filter. At this point all of the sludge was gone and it looked like a different engine than the one I had before.

When I drained the old oil after having used Neutra 131 I noticed that the oil was MUCH more dirty than normal but I did not see anything solid (no large pieces of crud). I highly recommend Neutra 131 for cleaning any engine that is suspected of being dirty or sludged.

I was doing some reading on Schaeffer's Neutra and came upon this post, I also found some before and after pics of the valvetrain with Neutra, and the pics were excellent, I just need to find a way to load them on here.
 
bob.jpg
 
I am sorry for the double post on this guys, this looks like Bob's old mix of 1 quart of ATF and 12 ounces of Neutra.

I am sure if you asked the Schaeffer's rep he probably would tell you to use 1 ounce of Neutra to 1 quart of oil. I was reading about sludge and varnish and it seems the 2 things that can cause this are plugged up PCV and extending oil changes.

I know many people like to extend there oil changes here so maybe a maintenance dose of Neutra or maybe putting some in 1000 miles before your oil change.

If you guys have any questions then maybe PM the Schaeffer's rep on here.
 
Its funny how I see posts that this is a "privately owned site", yet current sponsors obviously run it...

I guess thats ok with the lemmings and koolaid lovers.
 
Originally Posted By: elwaylite
Its funny how I see posts that this is a "privately owned site", yet current sponsors obviously run it...

I guess thats ok with the lemmings and koolaid lovers.


"current sponsors obviously run it"

Now that's funny...
 
Mobil 1 is a sponsor, and being a Mobil 1 user, I have noticed an overwhelming amount of various negative talk by many different users, about Mobil 1 oils in general. If they're running it, they're doing a horrible job lol
 
Re: Varnish and sludge
MolaKule


Registered: 06/05/02
Posts: 10095
Loc: Midwest Just to throw out a few definitions:

Varnish: A thin, insoluble, nonwipeable film occuring on interior engine parts. Can cause sticking and malfuntion of close-clearance moving parts. Called "Lacquer" in Diesel engines. Caused by vapors condensing and being "baked" onto the surfaces.

Sludge: A thick, dark residue, normally of mayonnaise consistency (not color), that accumulates on nonmoving engine interior surfaces. Generally removable by wiping unless baked to a carbonaceous consistency (coked). Its formation is associated with insolubles overloading of the lubricant. Caused by oil oxidation, nitration, moisture, fuel and other hydrocarbons. Chemically speaking, the hydrocarbons mix with the hyperperoxides and polymerize to form this dark, creamy mixture.


Varnish is a cosmetic issue and does nothing to performance level.

That statement about varnish being a cosmetic issue and having nothing to do with the performance level is a statement from arx.

Molakule, obviously has a different take on this varnish issue, so anyone reading this can makeup there own mind about this subject.
 
Originally Posted By: gmchevroletruck
So, the varnish is "only cosmetic" because arx can't remove it? I seeeeeee......


If ARX can't remove it, then it shouldn't be removed, the smooth layer of varnish is a mark of quality. Or something like that.

Buyer's remorse can make people say the strangest things...
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: sprintman
There's an idiot born every minute, and you just proved it. Have another try... but please something a little more factual.


Why the name calling? The man named a product that can remove varnish, isn't that what this board is all about? He is suggesting a product that works based on his experiences. I've read many of his posts and it appears the man knows his way around an engine bay!

MMO also does a great job at removing sludge, varnish, and cleans ring packs. It has done well in the UOA reports on this site too. For those of us who are into UOA's.

According to a respected member Molakule varnish in some engines is more than just cosmetic.
 
Originally Posted By: c3po

Varnish is a cosmetic issue and does nothing to performance level.


Um, except that:

Quote:

Varnish: A thin, insoluble, nonwipeable film occuring on interior engine parts. Can cause sticking and malfuntion of close-clearance moving parts. Called "Lacquer" in Diesel engines. Caused by vapors condensing and being "baked" onto the surfaces.


...like valve buckets, variable cam timing systems, tensioners....
 
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