Switch to dino from synthetic?
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Originally Posted By: dsmith41
Originally Posted By: heavyhitter
Dude, dont put any 5w20, 5w30, 10w30 car oil in your bike.
Yes, those are energy conserving and will damage your clutch.
The why doesn't it seem to damage the clutches in the bikes the previous posters speak of?
Originally Posted By: heavyhitter
Dude, dont put any 5w20, 5w30, 10w30 car oil in your bike.
Yes, those are energy conserving and will damage your clutch.
The why doesn't it seem to damage the clutches in the bikes the previous posters speak of?
Originally Posted By: Lurch
Originally Posted By: dsmith41
Originally Posted By: heavyhitter
Dude, dont put any 5w20, 5w30, 10w30 car oil in your bike.
Yes, those are energy conserving and will damage your clutch.
The why doesn't it seem to damage the clutches in the bikes the previous posters speak of?
I don't think anyone on this forum runs energy conserving oil in their bikes....if their bikes have a shared sump and a wet clutch (SSWC). In a SSWC, 40wt oil should be the bare minimum, as that engine/tranny set up tends to be very hard on oil and shear it rather quickly.
I would like to comment on the 15w40's and 5w40's that we have tried in our various bikes. I have no analysis to base opinion, but it is amazing to me how 'good' the 15w40's 'feel' when I make extended runs at 6,000 to 6,500 rpms. It seems like the oil really smooths out the engine when it is fully heated and flowing fast. This is in our two Suzuki DL650's (VStrom with a VTwin engine). Other oils I have tried seem to get a little rougher when hot and being pressed for performance, like a 2 hour run at 6,500 rpms. The 15w40's.....simply stay extemely smooth....(and I should note, a bit better than Rotella 5w40).
Although I have been a loud proponent of Delo (the addpak is monsterous!!!), both my sons (17 and 19 years old), swear that they like Delvac better, based on the 'feel' of the bike. (yeah, they are becoming oil freaks like their Pop.)
On another note, our Honda's that have a dry sump (600-650cc single, cylinder thumpers), tend to be sludge makers with the wrong oil. What I am speaking about is....we bought those bikes used and when we replaced a couple of lower-end seals, right after purchasing the bikes, we found a good bit of sludge (don't have a clue what oil they used). Anyway, I have this theory that Delo (and its addpak) is an excellent 'cleaner'. So for the first couple of short OCI's in those bikes, we ran Delo to clean them out. Then we gravitated back to Delvac....except in winter, when we run Rotella 5w40 (which should also be a great 'cleaner oil').
As I mention before....I was a Synthetic Oil Nut before discovering the 15w40's....and now that will be my oil 9 months of the year. I made the switch from synthetic back to dino and love it...love it!!!
Originally Posted By: dsmith41
Originally Posted By: heavyhitter
Dude, dont put any 5w20, 5w30, 10w30 car oil in your bike.
Yes, those are energy conserving and will damage your clutch.
The why doesn't it seem to damage the clutches in the bikes the previous posters speak of?
I don't think anyone on this forum runs energy conserving oil in their bikes....if their bikes have a shared sump and a wet clutch (SSWC). In a SSWC, 40wt oil should be the bare minimum, as that engine/tranny set up tends to be very hard on oil and shear it rather quickly.
I would like to comment on the 15w40's and 5w40's that we have tried in our various bikes. I have no analysis to base opinion, but it is amazing to me how 'good' the 15w40's 'feel' when I make extended runs at 6,000 to 6,500 rpms. It seems like the oil really smooths out the engine when it is fully heated and flowing fast. This is in our two Suzuki DL650's (VStrom with a VTwin engine). Other oils I have tried seem to get a little rougher when hot and being pressed for performance, like a 2 hour run at 6,500 rpms. The 15w40's.....simply stay extemely smooth....(and I should note, a bit better than Rotella 5w40).
Although I have been a loud proponent of Delo (the addpak is monsterous!!!), both my sons (17 and 19 years old), swear that they like Delvac better, based on the 'feel' of the bike. (yeah, they are becoming oil freaks like their Pop.)
On another note, our Honda's that have a dry sump (600-650cc single, cylinder thumpers), tend to be sludge makers with the wrong oil. What I am speaking about is....we bought those bikes used and when we replaced a couple of lower-end seals, right after purchasing the bikes, we found a good bit of sludge (don't have a clue what oil they used). Anyway, I have this theory that Delo (and its addpak) is an excellent 'cleaner'. So for the first couple of short OCI's in those bikes, we ran Delo to clean them out. Then we gravitated back to Delvac....except in winter, when we run Rotella 5w40 (which should also be a great 'cleaner oil').
As I mention before....I was a Synthetic Oil Nut before discovering the 15w40's....and now that will be my oil 9 months of the year. I made the switch from synthetic back to dino and love it...love it!!!
Originally Posted By: BigJohn
In a SSWC, 40wt oil should be the bare minimum, as that engine/tranny set up tends to be very hard on oil and shear it rather quickly.
By the way, I should note....it totally depends upon the bike and type of engine. I understand that the Goldwing engines are pretty easy on oil and Honda is now allowing 30wt.
In a SSWC, 40wt oil should be the bare minimum, as that engine/tranny set up tends to be very hard on oil and shear it rather quickly.
By the way, I should note....it totally depends upon the bike and type of engine. I understand that the Goldwing engines are pretty easy on oil and Honda is now allowing 30wt.
Originally Posted By: BigJohn
Originally Posted By: BigJohn
In a SSWC, 40wt oil should be the bare minimum, as that engine/tranny set up tends to be very hard on oil and shear it rather quickly.
By the way, I should note....it totally depends upon the bike and type of engine. I understand that the Goldwing engines are pretty easy on oil and Honda is now allowing 30wt.
The Gold Wing is not the only one that gets this recommendation. Well, not anymore. There are many more manufacturers/models that are now recommending 10W-30. Maybe a recent trend?
Originally Posted By: BigJohn
In a SSWC, 40wt oil should be the bare minimum, as that engine/tranny set up tends to be very hard on oil and shear it rather quickly.
By the way, I should note....it totally depends upon the bike and type of engine. I understand that the Goldwing engines are pretty easy on oil and Honda is now allowing 30wt.
The Gold Wing is not the only one that gets this recommendation. Well, not anymore. There are many more manufacturers/models that are now recommending 10W-30. Maybe a recent trend?
Yeah - probably not a good idea with the Pennzoil. It's good oil, but the friction modifiers probably not a good idea if you have a wet clutch.
My vote is Rotella 15W-40.
My vote is Rotella 15W-40.
Quote:
My vote is Rotella 15W-40.
Or 10-30 Rotella.
Both are HDEO's, stout add-packs, etc...
My vote is Rotella 15W-40.
Or 10-30 Rotella.
Both are HDEO's, stout add-packs, etc...
Originally Posted By: 47HO
The 15W-40 Rotella or the 5W-40 Rotella Synthetic if you want to stay with syn.
Exactly!
The 15W-40 Rotella or the 5W-40 Rotella Synthetic if you want to stay with syn.
Exactly!
15w40 Rotella is dino
Why do you keep wanting to put a 10w30 in your bike? IF you insist on usung a "car" oil I would say use a 20w50.
As others have mentioned on here a HDEO will work fine for your application. Your dino HDEO's will be in a 15w40 flavor and your syn will be in a 5w40 flavor. Find the one on sale and sleep well.
As others have mentioned on here a HDEO will work fine for your application. Your dino HDEO's will be in a 15w40 flavor and your syn will be in a 5w40 flavor. Find the one on sale and sleep well.
There are several 10W-30 HDEO's available. I recently saw a gallon of Pennzoil Long Life 10W-30 CI-4/SL at a local O'Reilly, and I would have no problem putting that stuff in a bike.
Lurch: From all I've read and my own experience you can't go wrong with either of the Rotella HDEOs in a motorcycle with a wet clutch like yours: 5W-40 syn or 15W-40 dino. I've been happy with the 5W-40, except the shifts become a bit crunchier as the oil ages. I've had the valve cover off a few times for valve checks and the engine is spotless, and the oil comes out very clean with a great feel and no burnt smell. Change at 3-5K and you're probably good to go with either one.
How do you like the UM250? Nice looking bike.
How do you like the UM250? Nice looking bike.
Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
Lurch: From all I've read and my own experience you can't go wrong with either of the Rotella HDEOs in a motorcycle with a wet clutch like yours: 5W-40 syn or 15W-40 dino. I've been happy with the 5W-40, except the shifts become a bit crunchier as the oil ages. I've had the valve cover off a few times for valve checks and the engine is spotless, and the oil comes out very clean with a great feel and no burnt smell. Change at 3-5K and you're probably good to go with either one.
How do you like the UM250? Nice looking bike.
I like my UM. I've owned bikes up to 1100cc and I actually like this 249cc after going 10 years with no bike at all. with the clip on bars, it seems plenty quick enough for me. I might get a GSX-R 600 someday. I've gotten to like this riding position at age 58. For a while I wondered if I ever would.
It doesn't shift very good at slow speeds, like when downshifting and coming to an intersection, red light, etc. I'm wondering if the Rotella might make it shift better, or maybe the Bel-ray Synth is aging and making it shift harder.
If there's any doubt, I could always use new Belray 10-40 again for about $8 more than Rotella would cost but I have a feeling Rotella will be fine.
I ride about 4k miles a year these days, so my OCIs will be once a year now. Will that be OK for this Rotella oil? My OCI is coming up in Nov or Dec.
Lurch
Lurch: From all I've read and my own experience you can't go wrong with either of the Rotella HDEOs in a motorcycle with a wet clutch like yours: 5W-40 syn or 15W-40 dino. I've been happy with the 5W-40, except the shifts become a bit crunchier as the oil ages. I've had the valve cover off a few times for valve checks and the engine is spotless, and the oil comes out very clean with a great feel and no burnt smell. Change at 3-5K and you're probably good to go with either one.
How do you like the UM250? Nice looking bike.
I like my UM. I've owned bikes up to 1100cc and I actually like this 249cc after going 10 years with no bike at all. with the clip on bars, it seems plenty quick enough for me. I might get a GSX-R 600 someday. I've gotten to like this riding position at age 58. For a while I wondered if I ever would.
It doesn't shift very good at slow speeds, like when downshifting and coming to an intersection, red light, etc. I'm wondering if the Rotella might make it shift better, or maybe the Bel-ray Synth is aging and making it shift harder.
If there's any doubt, I could always use new Belray 10-40 again for about $8 more than Rotella would cost but I have a feeling Rotella will be fine.
I ride about 4k miles a year these days, so my OCIs will be once a year now. Will that be OK for this Rotella oil? My OCI is coming up in Nov or Dec.Lurch
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I run a 250cc Yamaha Virago. I used Rotella and Delvac and they ran great, but my transmission was sticky when cold. I switched to Lucas 20w-50 motorcycle oil and its been night and day.
On a 250 I say run 20w-50. It works well for long rides on the highway. I rode 10k miles on my 250 this summer to and from my summer job. Its 42 miles each way. It worked well for me even in the heat and I got 90mpg several times.
If you do not want to buy expensive oil, Valvoline makes motorcycle dino oil thats under 4 bucks a quart around here.
On a 250 I say run 20w-50. It works well for long rides on the highway. I rode 10k miles on my 250 this summer to and from my summer job. Its 42 miles each way. It worked well for me even in the heat and I got 90mpg several times.
If you do not want to buy expensive oil, Valvoline makes motorcycle dino oil thats under 4 bucks a quart around here.
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