2006 6.0L powerstroke

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FiremarshalRob

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Ok, I'm not sure if this is purely coincidental or not. I've been adding some TC-W3 2 stroke oil to my diesel fuel tank for about the last 2-3 months or so. I add it at a ratio of 1 oz of tc-w3 to 1 gal diesel.

Well, for the last 3-4 weeks my morning cranks on my 6.0L PSD have grown considerably longer. I'm gonna say about 2-3 FULL seconds before it starts. The starter turns over fine, I have 2 6 month old Motorcraft batteries in it. Its just really concerning to me to have to hold the key over so long to get it to fire. But when it does, it cranks with some serious authority, kinda like its on steroids, or when you're cranking an old carbed pickup while pumping the gas.

So, I'm wondering if its my injectors, oil pressure, or not sure what in the world it could be. Its just really got me wondering if these danged 6.0L diesels are too picky about additives and maybe I shouldn't be adding the TC-W3 to the fuel tank. Maybe that's the culprit? Maybe not?

RL
 
Why would you add 2stroke oil to the fuel? Won't do a thing for you. use Stanadyne or another comparable quality product (btw you should most likely change your fuel filters now). it is a good idea to run conditioner every fill up regardless of what some slack jaw tells you. The injectors have known sticktion issues. To avoid an expensive preventable issue, its cheap insurance IMHO.
-How long does it roll for? (if it actually only rolls for 2-3 seconds like you say, thats really not a concern)
-Is the idle rough when it starts?
-is it lacking power just off of initial start up?
-does it do it When the engine is hot or cold?
-if the engine is hot and you come out and hour later is it the same results?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: slammds15
Why would you add 2stroke oil to the fuel? Won't do a thing for you. use Stanadyne or another comparable quality product (btw you should most likely change your fuel filters now). it is a good idea to run conditioner every fill up regardless of what some slack jaw tells you. The injectors have known sticktion issues. To avoid an expensive preventable issue, its cheap insurance IMHO.
-How long does it roll for? (if it actually only rolls for 2-3 seconds like you say, thats really not a concern)
-Is the idle rough when it starts?
-is it lacking power just off of initial start up?
-does it do it When the engine is hot or cold?
-if the engine is hot and you come out and hour later is it the same results?


Ok, the reason I have been adding the tc-w3 2 stroke oil to the diesel fuel is b/c I read up extensively on it and again, from studies I read online, that it is a good cheap way to lubricate the injectors and keep them from sticking and condition the fuel.
Also to help calm the level of engine noise.
Am I completely mistaken here? Does it do NOTHING? I normally add 26 oz to every other fill up. I'm on my second tank in a row without any 2 stroke oil.

I changed both my fuel filters about 6 months ago using only Motorcraft filters. I use only MC. I need to change again?

The starter turns over for at least 2-3 FULL seconds. Didn't use to do that.

When it does fire, it fires very strongly (new finding), idles smooth, plenty of power.

ONLY hard to crank when its been sitting overnight, or maybe 12 hrs or more. It routinely sits for a couple of days without being driven. NEVER hard to crank when the engine is warm.
 
Originally Posted By: FiremarshalRob

Ok, the reason I have been adding the tc-w3 2 stroke oil to the diesel fuel is b/c I read up extensively on it and again, from studies I read online, that it is a good cheap way to lubricate the injectors and keep them from sticking and condition the fuel.
Also to help calm the level of engine noise.
Am I completely mistaken here? Does it do NOTHING? I normally add 26 oz to every other fill up. I'm on my second tank in a row without any 2 stroke oil.

I changed both my fuel filters about 6 months ago using only Motorcraft filters. I use only MC. I need to change again?



Although it may seem like it, this is not a diesel bashing post.
Considering all the extra maintenance, the hassle of cold weather starting and repair costs of a diesel, what advantage do you have over a similar gas engine? Let's just say compared to a similar yeared Ford truck with a V-10 gas. I'm not wanting to start a flame war, just an honest answer.
 
Originally Posted By: Kruse
Originally Posted By: FiremarshalRob

Ok, the reason I have been adding the tc-w3 2 stroke oil to the diesel fuel is b/c I read up extensively on it and again, from studies I read online, that it is a good cheap way to lubricate the injectors and keep them from sticking and condition the fuel.
Also to help calm the level of engine noise.
Am I completely mistaken here? Does it do NOTHING? I normally add 26 oz to every other fill up. I'm on my second tank in a row without any 2 stroke oil.

I changed both my fuel filters about 6 months ago using only Motorcraft filters. I use only MC. I need to change again?



Although it may seem like it, this is not a diesel bashing post.
Considering all the extra maintenance, the hassle of cold weather starting and repair costs of a diesel, what advantage do you have over a similar gas engine? Let's just say compared to a similar yeared Ford truck with a V-10 gas. I'm not wanting to start a flame war, just an honest answer.


Come on now, this is about by situation, not if I should rather own a gas guzzling v-10.

But since you asked, I would never own a v-10 gas engine for towing or hauling.
My advantages:
Fuel economy
Power
Torque
Overall size and cab space for my family
I dont' find it requires any more maintenace than my other 2 gasoline vehicles. Just more oil and of course more expense.
The fact that I love a diesel engine, period.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
1 ounce per 1 gallon is WAY too much !
WAY too much in anything!
2 ounces per 10 gallons is more normal.


Not from what I've read for the diesel motors!
 
2 stroke oil really isn't designed to withstand the pressures or the heat. believe what you want but you get what you pay for. As for the fuel filters, change them with every oil change, low restricted fuel pressure is detrimental to the injectors. Use stanadyne fuel conditioner, I've seen that stuff do wonders for engines.

Next question is does your truck have a heavy knock when starting the engine? Time the length of time it takes from when you start cranking to when the engine starts. Be exact, hot and cold temp please. If it does have a heavier than normal knock when first starting how long until it clears up? Are you losing coolant and do you see any visible smoke on start up or driving down the road? does it stumble at all randomly? is there an EWL on?
 
Originally Posted By: FiremarshalRob
Originally Posted By: Kruse
Originally Posted By: FiremarshalRob

Ok, the reason I have been adding the tc-w3 2 stroke oil to the diesel fuel is b/c I read up extensively on it and again, from studies I read online, that it is a good cheap way to lubricate the injectors and keep them from sticking and condition the fuel.
Also to help calm the level of engine noise.
Am I completely mistaken here? Does it do NOTHING? I normally add 26 oz to every other fill up. I'm on my second tank in a row without any 2 stroke oil.

I changed both my fuel filters about 6 months ago using only Motorcraft filters. I use only MC. I need to change again?



Although it may seem like it, this is not a diesel bashing post.
Considering all the extra maintenance, the hassle of cold weather starting and repair costs of a diesel, what advantage do you have over a similar gas engine? Let's just say compared to a similar yeared Ford truck with a V-10 gas. I'm not wanting to start a flame war, just an honest answer.


Come on now, this is about by situation, not if I should rather own a gas guzzling v-10.

But since you asked, I would never own a v-10 gas engine for towing or hauling.
My advantages:
Fuel economy
Power
Torque
Overall size and cab space for my family
I dont' find it requires any more maintenace than my other 2 gasoline vehicles. Just more oil and of course more expense.
The fact that I love a diesel engine, period.


The Ford 6.8 liter V-10 engine should have been sold as a "shrimp boat anchor". No torque and atrocious fuel economy. Also its a PITA to change spark plugs. I am lost as to why FoMoCo continues to offer it.
 
Originally Posted By: slammds15
2 stroke oil really isn't designed to withstand the pressures or the heat. believe what you want but you get what you pay for. As for the fuel filters, change them with every oil change, low restricted fuel pressure is detrimental to the injectors. Use stanadyne fuel conditioner, I've seen that stuff do wonders for engines.

Next question is does your truck have a heavy knock when starting the engine? Time the length of time it takes from when you start cranking to when the engine starts. Be exact, hot and cold temp please. If it does have a heavier than normal knock when first starting how long until it clears up? Are you losing coolant and do you see any visible smoke on start up or driving down the road? does it stumble at all randomly? is there an EWL on?


Are you serious about changing both fuel filters at every oil change? If so, It would be hard for me to label that cheap insurance. That's an extra 50 dollars plus tax for those who change their oil every 5k miles with this truck. Are you sure that wouldn't be throwing away good fuel filters? Ford recommends changing them every 25k, I change mine about every 12-15k.

I've read many good reviews on Stanadyne. I'm not sure where I could find any locally. I think I'll leave the tc-w3 2 stroke oil out of my diesel fuel tank. I've got a bottle of Diesel Kleen I could run through.

I'll try to get exact times of starter turn over. I do know its "normal to me" once the engine is warm compared to first crank in the morning.

Once cranked, the cold engine knock clears up in less than 1 minute. No white smoke. I was having some last year, but a new oil cooler under warranty cleared that up. My EGR cooler passed some sort of bench test? I was surprised. I wanted a new one. But I imagine I will remove the thing once my warranty is up.

Not using any coolant. Not puking any coolant from radiator fill cap. No stumbling, no EWL or DTC. No aftermarket flash tuners or chips. 4" pipe from turbo to tip with high flow muffler.
 
Without being there, and with no laptop connected I would have to say it could be something as simple as a few faulty glow plugs and a few extra turns is required to fire it. It could also be a drain back issue through the branch tube adapter or branch tubes (this will make itself evident rather quickly, keep and eye on your roll over times, its worse after it sits for a period of time or when the engine is hot) A starter, batteries or cables could also have consequences on this issue, but you seem smart enough to make that distinction
wink.gif


I'm going to do a UOA @ 12,000km this time around. I'm using M1 tdt and usually change it every 10,000km along with my fuel filters. I get all my filters from International. It runs me $50 for the oil filter and both fuel filters. You could install a fuel pressure gauge in the housing to monitor it if you wanted to run the filters longer, I've been meaning to do that but have been too lazy to do it. Your regulator cracking pressure is 50 +/-5 and should not exceed 65 psi @ 35 gal/hr.

You should be able to find Stanadyne at any reputable truck stop. lets face it, they get worse fuel mileage than us and are most likely way cheaper too lol

If you have any further questions or concerns please mention them.
 
Originally Posted By: Jeff3126
Originally Posted By: FiremarshalRob
Originally Posted By: Kruse
Originally Posted By: FiremarshalRob

Ok, the reason I have been adding the tc-w3 2 stroke oil to the diesel fuel is b/c I read up extensively on it and again, from studies I read online, that it is a good cheap way to lubricate the injectors and keep them from sticking and condition the fuel.
Also to help calm the level of engine noise.
Am I completely mistaken here? Does it do NOTHING? I normally add 26 oz to every other fill up. I'm on my second tank in a row without any 2 stroke oil.

I changed both my fuel filters about 6 months ago using only Motorcraft filters. I use only MC. I need to change again?



Although it may seem like it, this is not a diesel bashing post.
Considering all the extra maintenance, the hassle of cold weather starting and repair costs of a diesel, what advantage do you have over a similar gas engine? Let's just say compared to a similar yeared Ford truck with a V-10 gas. I'm not wanting to start a flame war, just an honest answer.


Come on now, this is about by situation, not if I should rather own a gas guzzling v-10.

But since you asked, I would never own a v-10 gas engine for towing or hauling.
My advantages:
Fuel economy
Power
Torque
Overall size and cab space for my family
I dont' find it requires any more maintenace than my other 2 gasoline vehicles. Just more oil and of course more expense.
The fact that I love a diesel engine, period.


The Ford 6.8 liter V-10 engine should have been sold as a "shrimp boat anchor". No torque and atrocious fuel economy. Also its a PITA to change spark plugs. I am lost as to why FoMoCo continues to offer it.


Bad fuel economy yes, no torque; what? The 3 Valve V10's have 457lb/ft. of torque. In the 2011MY, the V10 will only be offered in the 450/550 chassis cabs I believe.
 
and..... Flame on! go argue somewhere else. oh my gosh 6.0L 300hp and [censored] near 600 lbs-ft of torque, gosh I dunno what the better choice would be? ok now its your turn.

The fellow asked a diesel question not what was better gas or diesel. Who gives a flying fudge pop about the V10? how is this related to this thread?
 
Originally Posted By: slammds15
Without being there, and with no laptop connected I would have to say it could be something as simple as a few faulty glow plugs and a few extra turns is required to fire it. It could also be a drain back issue through the branch tube adapter or branch tubes (this will make itself evident rather quickly, keep and eye on your roll over times, its worse after it sits for a period of time or when the engine is hot) A starter, batteries or cables could also have consequences on this issue, but you seem smart enough to make that distinction
wink.gif



I'm going to do a UOA @ 12,000km this time around. I'm using M1 tdt and usually change it every 10,000km along with my fuel filters. I get all my filters from International. It runs me $50 for the oil filter and both fuel filters. You could install a fuel pressure gauge in the housing to monitor it if you wanted to run the filters longer, I've been meaning to do that but have been too lazy to do it. Your regulator cracking pressure is 50 +/-5 and should not exceed 65 psi @ 35 gal/hr.

You should be able to find Stanadyne at any reputable truck stop. lets face it, they get worse fuel mileage than us and are most likely way cheaper too lol

If you have any further questions or concerns please mention them.


Also another question does the idle lope around? or is a consistent rattle until it gets warm?
 
Last edited:
No, seems to be a consistent idle.

I'm gonna go ahead and bring it to my local Ford Service dealership Monday morning. Hopefully get the injectors checked and cleaned and oil pressure checked.

I'm wondering which gauges I should invest in so I can watch some pressures/temps more accurately?

RL
 
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