Silicone / PTFE Grease

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IN2FORD, would it be possible to install the tube of grease into one of those mini grease guns?

I would think you would want to clean all that old grease out of the yoke first, in order to avoid possible compatibility issues.

Tell us what the outcome is.
 
Did someone mention post junky in a previous thread here? Super bored today, buy I have interest due to a Ford truck I maintain at work.

Checking out Motorcraft grease site, the MSDS shows 10 to 25% teflon content (Why so inprecise?). The Permatex stuff MSDS shows less than 5% teflon, so I would strike that one off the list. Seems like the regular Super Lube might not quite make the spec. either. How much $$ is their 25% stuff?

The Ford product in 16oz. lists for $30, but can be had mailorder for $22 (plus shipping). You could manually load it into a grease gun. Expensive, but if it works........

FYI, I "think" (someone correct me) that both moly and teflon are considered to be "enhanced" boundary lubricants. They act like tiny, solid "marbles/ball bearings" (vs. oil lube) and excel in sliding applications. I know there are some lubes that have 40% moly.

Best of luck.
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Did someone mention post junky in a previous thread here? Super bored today, buy I have interest due to a Ford truck I maintain at work.

Checking out Motorcraft grease site, the MSDS shows 10 to 25% teflon content (Why so inprecise?). The Permatex stuff MSDS shows less than 5% teflon, so I would strike that one off the list. Seems like the regular Super Lube might not quite make the spec. either. How much $$ is their 25% stuff?

The Ford product in 16oz. lists for $30, but can be had mailorder for $22 (plus shipping). You could manually load it into a grease gun. Expensive, but if it works........

FYI, I "think" (someone correct me) that both moly and teflon are considered to be "enhanced" boundary lubricants. They act like tiny, solid "marbles/ball bearings" (vs. oil lube) and excel in sliding applications. I know there are some lubes that have 40% moly.

Best of luck.




That is some good info!! The Extreme Temp/Pressure version of Superlube has 25% Teflon, but so far the cheapest I have found it is about $30.

So are you thinking that the Moly grease would do the same as the teflon stuff? What percent Moly would equal the teflon??

Where did you find the online ordering?? I could not find it.
Barry
 
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I googled "Motorcraft slip yoke grease" and clicked one of the commercial links at the right.
http://www.metromotorparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=214627 Type in the ford part # D2AZ19590A Funny, the price went up $3 since this morning. Check dealer prices.

A moly grease MIGHT work better. MAYBE one of those new high solids ceramic brake grease is the ticket. I am not a risk taker and figure that the Ford engineers already sacrificed a few test guinea pigs. That's my take, others will disagree.
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I googled "Motorcraft slip yoke grease" and clicked one of the commercial links at the right.
http://www.metromotorparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=214627 Type in the ford part # D2AZ19590A Funny, the price went up $3 since this morning. Check dealer prices.

A moly grease MIGHT work better. MAYBE one of those new high solids ceramic brake grease is the ticket. I am not a risk taker and figure that the Ford engineers already sacrificed a few test guinea pigs. That's my take, others will disagree.


Makes sense to me.It possible there are other products that work as well or maybe even better.
If ford is aware of the issue and claims this product corrects it then that's what I'm using.I neither have the time or patience for experimenting.

I was told by the parts guy at the Ford dealer that the grease in the kit for the Ranger is Krytox based.I didn't see anything on the tube that listed any ingredients.

It was a white color and had a unusual odor,the consistency was weird,not thick and stringy almost runny but also like an adhesive like quality to it,it hung tenaciously where ever it was applied.
Sorry i cant describe it any better.It has been working well though since using it.
 
Maybe they saw your post.....

I think I will just run to the local Ford store and get a can of it. I found a mini grease gun at Autozone on clearance, so I'll grab it and transfer the grease from the can to it and see what happens. Thanks again for everyones input. This is a agreat forum. I will report back and let everyone know how things progress.

Barry

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I googled "Motorcraft slip yoke grease" and clicked one of the commercial links at the right.
http://www.metromotorparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=214627 Type in the ford part # D2AZ19590A Funny, the price went up $3 since this morning. Check dealer prices.

A moly grease MIGHT work better. MAYBE one of those new high solids ceramic brake grease is the ticket. I am not a risk taker and figure that the Ford engineers already sacrificed a few test guinea pigs. That's my take, others will disagree.
 
#238 - Ultra Supreme

http://www.schaefferoil.com/msdspdf/238-2.pdf

Oils -
PAO 10-15%
100% Paraffin Base Oil 60-70%

Thickener-
Aluminum Benzoate Stearate (aluminum complex) 6-9%

EP additives and solid lubricants-
Molybdenum Disulfide 5-7%
Antimony Dithiocarbamate 1-3%
Graphite 1-3%
Teflon 1-3%

Looks to be good stuff! Not sure I need 120 Tubes of the stuff though. Seems like this could be a nice little internet business for someone.
 
I have worked with problems like this before, however not in a drive shaft.... I have found dry lubes to work much better than a grease in applications like this, however it may need grease for something I'm not aware of ? A dry lube when applied to a clean surface will last much longer than a grease, as the grease has a tendency for run off, and in this case being slung off. You can get moly, or teflon based dry lubes, it might be worth a try.

I have also in a couple applications applied a dry lube to a clean surface, prepped with a scotchbrite pad ( the green) then coat that after it has dried with a grease containing the same lube as the dry lube. If the surface on your part is not polished smooth you will not need any scotchbrite prep work, if it is scotchbrite or 600-800 grit wet/dry paper will do as good as scotchbrite, however I like the scotchbrite wheels, you can mount one on a drill, or buffer and really cut down the prep work.
 
MonumentOiler

I have used Molybdenum (mos2), Teflon, Graphite, Copper, others I'm sure I did not think of. Sorry it took me so long to reply...work work work. You can also make a spray if needed to access recessed areas etc by using 99.9% alcohol or acetone. I always used 99.9% alcohol as it's a perfect carrier for many things. Copper is a lube that has outstanding properties, however I don't think the drive shaft would be one of them, in the drive shaft situation I would look at one of the store bought moly spray lubes, you can get these in chain lube, gun lube, maybe in a generic everything dry lube spray ? Just shake it up good.
 
Originally Posted By: MonumentOiler
I was able to get a single tube of #238 from a truck repair depot listed on the Schaeffer's website. When I've had a chance to evaluate it I'll post up.


I've used the 238, at the Number 1 grade so it's a little thinner than the standard B/2 grade stuff.

Excellent grease on everything I've packed it into.

Wheel Bearings, Electric drill drive gears, impact drive gears, timing belt tensioner bearings, throw out bearing, etc.

Very sticky/tacky stuff, have to be careful with the gun, or you'll break prime easily.

I'm a fan of this grease, I should tear down the drill and see how it's holding up. It only spins up to around 2000rpm, but I use it for alot of surfacing, so it goes about max speed with decent sudden loads on it every now and again. It seems to run better now, and it doesn't get nearly as hot in operation.
 
Ooops, sorry, I use #274 #1 for the lower operating temps. -30f vs -10f for the #1, and -50f for #0 of the #274.

Hard to keep those Schaeffer numbers straight. lol
 
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what you might want is a spline grease.
Only one that i can remember is spline grease Mercruiser uses for their outdrives, it's relatively cheap and you would most likely have to mail order it. I've never used it but from what i've read online people say it's better than using standard greases... how they know that i don't know and I've never had a problem with regular grease in that application.

CRC brake caliper grease- has a high solid content, I think might work or would be worth trying but you would have to pull the driveshaft off and paint the grease in, it's in a bottle with a brush cap or squeeze tube.
other things that might be worth looking into is CRC dry moly lube and graphite lube, both are in spray cans.

what i think you would want is a lube, not necessarily a grease per se, that has EP properties because of the loads placed on the spline which also needs to slide. I can understand how a regular grease would wash or run out, and one solution there would be using a heavier, at least NLGI 3 grease versus a 2, and you would want one with high EP additives and solids such as moly or graphite, and you would want a grease with a base oil having the highest viscosity possible. Normal greases have oils comparable to 40 weight oil because they are for bearing applications so you don't want a super viscous oil in that case (the faster the bearing speed the lower the viscosity). But in your case it's basically a stationary part so lower viscosity oil will seep and dry out easier.
I've never been a big fan of PTFE, that has been proven to be worthless in many lube applications where ptfe is just thrown into the oil or grease.
 
Barry can you provide any details on how/where you installed the zirk on your slip yoke? Also how has it affected durability?
 
If one were to install zerks and apply grease on interval, would there be a risk of cross contamination with the ATF over time?
 
This is not the yoke that goes in the transmissions tail shaft, that is lubricated by the transmission fluid.
Some vehicles use a slip joint right behind the front U joint or at the centre carrier bearing.

On some very old cars you may find a tail shaft that is sealed internally with its external splines being lubed by a zerk but not today. Do not try to install a zerk on a shaft that goes into the transmission that uses an external lip seal for the reason you mentioned.
 
I don't know how hard it is to source over there, but for heavily shock loaded sliding splines and CV's we use Millers Hi-Mol 20 (20% Moly) to great effect.
 
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