Building a filter cart?

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I'm looking to build am off line filter cart similar to this one

http://www.donaldson.com/en/ih/support/datalibrary/056806.pdf

im looking to filter hyd fluid in my press brake, metal shear, Hyd punch, and Truck mounted crane.

All of them have a 50-400 Gallon hyd fluid capacity and ISO VG 46 or UTF hyd fluids.

My boom truck has been known to have some water emulsion every now and again so i would want to be able to use a water removal element, combined with two other filters.

I do have 220 3 phase power in my shop but i would rather have a 110V motor if i could get away with it.

I don't know where to start with this but im sure i could put one together for under the $1000+ they want for a new one.

I would be doing less than 1,000 gallons a year with it so it doesn't need to be super high capacity but i also don't want it to take more than a couple of hours to thoroughly filter 100 gallons of fluid.

Also i would like to be able to use the pump for transferring fluid into and out of various machines.
 
dualie, that looks like a pretty nice machine. MSC also sells one pretty reasonable. i didn't see anything about micron rating on the filter's. i like to see a particle count of 16/14 or so on hydraulic system's. i think a basic unit could be built for under $1000 if you have a good source for the parts. a gear pump with a bypass valve (to help regulate flow when oil is cold)would really be a good idea on one of these, especially on a 110v unit.
 
define cold? It rarely gets below 60 degrees here. I'm looking for what sort of spin on filters would be appropriate for this. I figure a 10 micron cleanly ness level for most of the machines would be more than enough. IF i really wanted to polish the fluid i could use 5 micron filters.

Anyone have a recommendation on the best water block filters to get?

Also i would ideally like to have filter heads with restriction gauges.
 
dualie, i don't think 10 micron filters will bring your particle count down to the standard's that the ISO set's for hydraulic system's. 5 would be better, or even 3. as far as cold oil, i would imagine 80 degree's or so for a hydraulic fluid with an ISO vg of 46. it is harder to pump when cold, the drive motor draws more amps, and kicks out your breaker. a bypass valve would relieve some of that pressure. not sure about the water block filter's. i know they are out there. possibly MSC also? do you have a local hydraulic supplier that may be able to supply?
 
I'm in the San Francisco bay area so industrial suppliers aren't the problem. I'm just trying to do this on the cheep to save some money. Im only going to be using this thing maybe 5 times a year. I been looking at hyd pumps on ebay. I know enough to know i don't know what the [censored] to buy.

Donaldson has the water block filters so that's not a problem. I just need to figure out what kind of pump to run and how to rig the bypass.
 
The carts i seen that had a bypass, actually had a pipe around the filters all together. to keep from burning up the pumps.

Since I'm sure the fluid in my press brake has plenty of funkyness going on, that 10 micron filter might even be to fine. One of the reasons i want to go with spin on filters is so i can change up the level of the filtration as needed.

I have a 25 Hp hyd power pack that is purely surplus to my needs but its a bit unwieldy for use as a mobile filter.
 
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I mean a bypass filter mounted on the equipment to constantly keep the oil in top shape . Like a T.P or paper towel type .Heck even an Amsoil setup.
 
dualie, it's certainly do-able. i'd want a gear pump instead of a vane pump myself, but thats just me. let us know how it goes.
 
A bypass filter on the machines is a much less attractive alternative. The flow rates and pressures required to achieve a decent level of filtration is pretty massive.

Also in the case of my press brake it is closing in on 60 years old and was built using NPT fittings. Not known for their reliability in sealing. I really don't want to touch ANYTHING on that machine i don't have to. I fear if i start cracking fittings loose i might open a Pandora's box of problems i will never be able to put back right.

Filter carts are widely used in industrial environments where a simple polishing of the fluid is all that's warranted. Their are offline kidney pump style systems that can be machine mounted but then you have way more maintenance involved in keeping the system running right. A filter cart only requires maintenance at your discretion not so much the machines.
 
There used to be a company in the bay area that would come on site with a filter cart . It has been done if you want to buy or build one . I do not remember the name of the company though
 
If its the one im thinking of they also do "fuel polishing" for stand by generators and boats.

The only problem is to get them to come out i have to get an EPA waste generator ID# and i want NOTHING TO DO WITH THAT. The last thing i need is to be on the EPA's radar.
 
Find out the recommended gallons per minute for the filter elements you choose, then buy a pump & motor combination to match. I think the water block filters will be very low gpm, but check this.

Don't get hung up on spin-on filters. If cartridge filters meet your needs better, get those.

Look into an electric heater to add to the cart. The oil will filter much better if it is warm and thin. Your day will be spoiled if you find that the pump forced cool oil through a collapsed filter element.
 
I'm looking at using Donaldson HMK05/25 filter heads preferably.

I'm currently Looking for a 10-20 GPM pump and motor and some way to bypass the filters if the pressure spikes over 25 PSI on the filter side.

These carts are pretty popular in industrial settings and big plants with lots of machinery. I just need to find one to study with my own eyes instead of trying to piece one together from pictures on the Internet
 
Easily done. Grab two cheap heads off of ebay. If you've got the pump ..the rest is child's play. The filters won't necessarily be cheap. The only chink in my view is the water issue. Water absorption media can be hard to find in the right thread to do a "one size thread fits all". It may require a 3rd head with just that dedicated task (in line).

The bypass can be easily configured (if the pump doesn't have a integrated adjustable relief) with a check valve with a preload of whatever you determine to be the proper condemnation point for the filters. The mounts themselves have 25lb (some none) internal bypass.

The size of the filter indexed for the level of filtration will determine the change out rate. There's not much to do about trumping that.
 
As Tom says, that should require no more than a replaced spring or some other adjustment. If need be you can regulate pressure with pre-loaded checks shunted/piped to the suction side of the pump. The pressure limits of the pump should have no bearing on the pressure developed in a closed loop with little to no resistance. As some point in the loop you'll reach zero pressure and start transition to suction head.
 
Check that, you're drawing and discharging into a sump. In any event, any pump just moves fluid. The external pressure development is produced by the restriction it sees. Ultra high pressure pumps tend not to be high volume.
 
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