Oil suggestion for 2005 Honda Accord V6

[cwing6]

Purchased new, now has 111,000 miles. Had the local quick lube use YB 5W20 (as required by Honda)every 4 - 5K miles until about 75K miles then decided to take over the oil changes myself and have used M1 5W20 and M1 filter since but still used 4 - 5K OCI's until I discovered this site. The engine appears very clean when looking into the sump, though I read here somewhere that Honda V6 engines are hard on oil. The Accord seems to purr with the M1 and I've been happy with it. I run 80% - 90% highway at 60+ MPH. It doesn't burn any oil between changes and actually seems to run better after the M1 has a couple thousand miles on it. I am thinking of changing to M1 0W20 to help with any start up wear, but would like to hear what some of you say. Valvoline Max-Life since over 75K? Pennzoil HM, Mobil HM? Would a HM oil do any good since the M1 seems to work well and has generally had reasonable OCI's its whole life? Would a different weight be beneficial?

Am looking for:
1.) Engine protection (would like to exceed 200K)
2.) 7,500 OCI's

I have not done a UOA, but am planning to when I dump this oil around 6K. I've search the site, but most Honda info is for 4 cylinder models. Sorry for rambling, just looking for suggestions from people smarter than me about this.

 

[ThirdeYe]

Since your engine appears to be nice and clean already, doesn't leak and doesn't burn oil, you don't need to use HM oil IMO. Keep using a 20-grade Mobil 1 and I'd think you can safely run it for 7,500 miles.

 

[bepperb]

If you've gone through a few short OCI's with M1, than the engine is as clean as it's going to get. There's controversy with M1 (and many oils) but I've never heard anyone question it's ability to clean.

So, you've got a clean and probably very low wear J series Honda v6. That's a good place to start. I assume no leaks and that neither seal is weeping (no wet looking areas under the car) so I wouldn't use a high mileage oil yet. I don't really see an advantage or disadvantage to a 0w-20 vs a 5-20, so whatever you prefer. A uoa on this engine at 6000 miles is probably unnecessary unless you think there is a mechanical problem, but from what I read there is no reason to think there would be one.

If it were mine, I'd probably use M1 5w-20 and run out 7500 miles. I think PP or SynPower or Edge could do it as well. If it makes you feel better, either Edge or M1 EP or AmsOil SSO are designed for long drains of 10,000 miles or more and would do 7500 in this engine no problem. They're not hard on oil, about average I'd say, just not as easy as the K, D or R-series I4's.

200k won't be a problem. It isn't a problem in cars that weigh significantly more with the same engine, and probably get much worse service. The problems you should be worried about is getting the timing belt replaced, and making sure the tranny will last that long.

 

[Nickdfresh]

I'd run Mobil1 AFE, Amsoil 0W-20 (whatever they call it), or Pennzoil Platinum/QS Syn...

I wouldn't worry about cleaning it as all of those oils probably can handle light cleaning pretty well...

 

[Durango]

I agree! Your engine is doing fine in all regards. I'd recommend using a good synthetic also like Mobil 1 BUT in the "extended" version. That way you can go an easy 7500K and have confidence your oil package can go the distance.

Durango

 

[wolfc70]

Any 5w-20 or 0w-20 (not really needed in VA) will do fine. One other note, if you have not done it yet, get the valves adjusted. My friends '03 Accord V6 burned a valve at 122K miles. He had the cam belt done at 100k and skipped the valve adjustment. After doing some research, the Honda J series are known for tight valve clearances once they get some miles on them.

 

[FZ1]

I've got an 02 V6 and it fuel dilutes. Nix on 7500 and PP,stay with 5-20,but switch to the EP version. 6 mos. and 4500 is about it for me.

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: cwing6
Purchased new, now has 111,000 miles. Had the local quick lube use YB 5W20 (as required by Honda)every 4 - 5K miles until about 75K miles then decided to take over the oil changes myself and have used M1 5W20 and M1 filter since but still used 4 - 5K OCI's until I discovered this site. The engine appears very clean when looking into the sump, though I read here somewhere that Honda V6 engines are hard on oil. The Accord seems to purr with the M1 and I've been happy with it. I run 80% - 90% highway at 60+ MPH. It doesn't burn any oil between changes and actually seems to run better after the M1 has a couple thousand miles on it. I am thinking of changing to M1 0W20 to help with any start up wear, but would like to hear what some of you say. Valvoline Max-Life since over 75K? Pennzoil HM, Mobil HM? Would a HM oil do any good since the M1 seems to work well and has generally had reasonable OCI's its whole life? Would a different weight be beneficial?

Am looking for:
1.) Engine protection (would like to exceed 200K)
2.) 7,500 OCI's

I have not done a UOA, but am planning to when I dump this oil around 6K. I've search the site, but most Honda info is for 4 cylinder models. Sorry for rambling, just looking for suggestions from people smarter than me about this.


If I were forced to run a 20wt in the J series it would be Redline if you want the best protection out there.

 

[dkryan]

Originally Posted By: wolfc70
Any 5w-20 or 0w-20 (not really needed in VA) will do fine. One other note, if you have not done it yet, get the valves adjusted. My friends '03 Accord V6 burned a valve at 122K miles. He had the cam belt done at 100k and skipped the valve adjustment. After doing some research, the Honda J series are known for tight valve clearances once they get some miles on them.


Tell me you are joking!?

The Accord V6s have to have the valve clearance checked "every so often?" I'd expect that from a four-banger, but a V6?

"Cam belt done?" As in "timing belt?"

 

[Audi Junkie]

Try a 30 weight, a 10w-30 and see if you like how the engine runs, especially if you have a manual. I guess going into winter, a 5w-30 would be more appropriate. Motorcraft should take you to 7500 miles for $2.

 

[wolfc70]

Originally Posted By: dkryan
Originally Posted By: wolfc70
Any 5w-20 or 0w-20 (not really needed in VA) will do fine. One other note, if you have not done it yet, get the valves adjusted. My friends '03 Accord V6 burned a valve at 122K miles. He had the cam belt done at 100k and skipped the valve adjustment. After doing some research, the Honda J series are known for tight valve clearances once they get some miles on them.


Tell me you are joking!?

The Accord V6s have to have the valve clearance checked "every so often?" I'd expect that from a four-banger, but a V6?

"Cam belt done?" As in "timing belt?"




Yes, Honda calls for a valve adjustment at 105K, same interval as the timing belt. All J series V6 have a toothed belt driving the cams. On SOHC Honda engines, the adjusters are a screw and jam nut, so no shims, and should only take 2-3 hours to do. Most dealers charge $1000-1200 to due the "book" service at 105K. This includes; new timing belt, tensioners, water pump, accessory belts, coolant flush, new spark plugs and a valve clearance check. On most of the v6's the exhaust valves are tight at 105k miles.

 

[addyguy]

You're engine is getting up there in mileage, you should really start running 20W-50 in it. the thicker viscosity will help cushion the engine parts, as tolerances have no doubt increased.

 

[cwing6]

My mechanic (formerly with the Honda service dept) says the '05 V6 engine does not need the valves adjusted as they are hydraulic. Says the 4 bangers do need adjusting. Does anyone here agree with this?

Accessory belt and spark plugs replaced at 100K. Plan to get the timing belt, tensioners, water pump, and coolant flush before winter.

Thanks to all for the helpful advice!!

 

[BuickGN]

Definately not hydaulic. Mine need adjusting at 79,000 on my '06.

 

[cwing6]

Yeah, I just spoke with the Honda dealership and they said the valves in the V6 should be checked and adjusted (if needed) every 105K. They want $350 to do it which seems steep.

 

[PT1]

Originally Posted By: cwing6


1. The engine appears very clean when looking into the sump,
2. The Accord seems to purr with the M1 and I've been happy with it.
3. It doesn't burn any oil between changes and actually seems to run better after the M1 has a couple thousand miles on it.



Here are 3 reasons you should stick with what you are using......

 

[wolfc70]

Originally Posted By: cwing6
Yeah, I just spoke with the Honda dealership and they said the valves in the V6 should be checked and adjusted (if needed) every 105K. They want $350 to do it which seems steep.


That is pretty close, as it takes 2-3 hours to do. And most dealers are over $100 per hour, it is not that far off. Local independent shops will charge less, but make sure they are familiar with Honda's. The upper intake plenum has to be removed, then pull the valve covers. Set each cylinder to TDC and check the clearance with a feeler gauge(do not spin the engine backwards, you can push in the timing belt tensioner, then when you start the car, it could jump a tooth or two). There are no shims, so you can adjust as you check, loosen the jamb nut with a 10mm wrench and use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the screw. Once set, tighten the jamb nut (not too tight, they will strip!) while holding the screwdriver. Recheck clearance and move on to the next one. Old Honda motorcycles used to have these type of adjusters in the pre VTEC days, and is a very simple way to set valve clearances. It is just that you have 24 to check, so it may take awhile.

 

[AV6NHBP6SPD]

stick with 5W-30, honda uses 5W-20 to increase fleet fuel milage reportings. 30 will give you better protection, i think somebody said that 30 shears down to 20 overtime
im running amsoil 0w-30 right now in my 04 accord v6