2008 Hyundai 2.7L oil spec..

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JTK

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It's pretty much throw in what ever you have on hand! 5w20 is the 'preferred' and what's printed on the oil fill cap. Quite the old-school broad range here. From what I understand, the 2.7L is a Mitsubishi derivative. It's a real smooth, quiet little runner for sure.
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Joel
 
I have the same engine in my '06 with the same page from the Manual. I use 5w30 or 0w30 year round. Better UOA's, engine is much quieter and more responsive.

Would never use a 5w20 in this engine...

My technical manual for this engine even states to use a 5w30 in our Canadian Climate year round. In the summer it can even use a 20w50 if the temperature is over 25oC ...
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I have the same engine in my '06 with the same page from the Manual...Would never use a 5w20 in this engine...


I appreciate the insight. There have been some pretty significant changes between the 2001-2006 and 2007+ 2.7L however.
-Different cylinder heads
-Different PCV system
-Different variable runner length intake plenum
-Electronic throttle body
-Coil-on-plug ignition
(just to name a few)

I'm not hard set on 5w20, but I've used it for years on vehicles that spec'd it (and some that didn't) will no ill effect. I see no reason to avoid it.

Joel
 
Just more proof that we can pretty much use whatever oil we want to use. Except in those special cases of cylinder reduction or turbo'd cars.

I was looking through my old 1990 Accord manual, and a wide range from 5w30 to 10w30 to 15w40 was allowed.
 
Why run a heavier oil than what is required? You won't be taking a Santa Fe to a racetrack anyway.

Now, the more pressing question is, what happened to the Cobalt?
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Why run a heavier oil than what is required? You won't be taking a Santa Fe to a racetrack anyway.

Now, the more pressing question is, what happened to the Cobalt?


Is it better to use an oil that is too thin? Or too thick?
 
define too thin the manual says 5w20 is ok?

well maybe that wolfshead 6.5cst 5w20 :p
 
i reckom M1 ow-40 is becoming the golden boy fo suits almost all needs (for me at least). planning on running it for 10,000 mile OCI's in my 2AZ-FE. minimum temps 5 deg C, max, 45 deg C.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Now, the more pressing question is, what happened to the Cobalt?


Thanks Critic. Well... my sickness kicked in again and I was 'sort of' shopping for a smaller AWD (Subaru, etc) given the horrible time I had last winter in the 'balt. Try as I might, I couldn't find any Sub's in my price range. I happened to spot this used 2008 Santa Fe AWD that had been sitting for weeks at a Pontiac/Buick/GMC/Caddy dealer very close to my house. Strategically planted right next to my little guy's pre-school no less. I looked it over and really liked what I saw. Days later the price got dropped quite a bit. It's got high miles for a vehicle put on the road 3/20/08 @ 40Kmi, but it's very clean. Turns out it was a Sales guy's car, who traded it off for a GMC truck. They gave me $6500 trade-in for the Cobalt (owed a cpl grand on it). Price on the Hyundai was $14900. I did enjoy that Cobalt for the ~30mo I owned it. I know I'll kick myself when gas goes back up to $4/gallon.
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Joel
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I have the same engine in my '06 with the same page from the Manual...Would never use a 5w20 in this engine...


I appreciate the insight. There have been some pretty significant changes between the 2001-2006 and 2007+ 2.7L however.
-Different cylinder heads
-Different PCV system
-Different variable runner length intake plenum
-Electronic throttle body
-Coil-on-plug ignition
(just to name a few)

I'm not hard set on 5w20, but I've used it for years on vehicles that spec'd it (and some that didn't) will no ill effect. I see no reason to avoid it.

Joel


Joel,

Minor updates... Nothing huge... The heads were changed to increase power output as the older 2.7's were a bit lazy off the line.

Also because they also changed valve timing for better NOX reduction from what i'm told...
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I have the same engine in my '06 with the same page from the Manual...Would never use a 5w20 in this engine...


I appreciate the insight. There have been some pretty significant changes between the 2001-2006 and 2007+ 2.7L however.
-Different cylinder heads
-Different PCV system
-Different variable runner length intake plenum
-Electronic throttle body
-Coil-on-plug ignition
(just to name a few)

I'm not hard set on 5w20, but I've used it for years on vehicles that spec'd it (and some that didn't) will no ill effect. I see no reason to avoid it.

Joel


Joel,

Minor updates... Nothing huge... The heads were changed to increase power output as the older 2.7's were a bit lazy off the line.

Also because they also changed valve timing for better NOX reduction from what i'm told...


Stevie,what does that motor run on? 87 octane fuel?
 
Mine says 87 is fine but they recommend 89. I suspect it is because I don't have an EGR valve so I run slightly higher cylinder temps.

I have heard the odd pinging sound here/there on hot summer days using 87.

I use 87 in the winter and 89 in the summer to combat this...
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Mine says 87 is fine but they recommend 89. I suspect it is because I don't have an EGR valve so I run slightly higher cylinder temps.

I have heard the odd pinging sound here/there on hot summer days using 87.

I use 87 in the winter and 89 in the summer to combat this...


Interesting coment re;no egr valve.Mine doesnt have an egr either,and is considered a hard motor on oil.(higher oil temps etc.)
 
When there is no EGR they can do it through valve timing to a point (my engine does this) but it's not as good as an EGR equipped system in most cases. This leaves some exhaust in the cylinders diluting the fuel/air ratio mixture as read by the 02 sensor and causes the computer to enrichen the mixture with more fuel and thus cools the cylinders.

The NOX will run a tad higher due to increased cylinder temperatures thus possibly causing increased pre-ignition or "pinging".

A higher octane fuel will resist this problem better in most cases assuming the NOX isn't "off the charts" high.

Since I have switched to an 89 in the summer I haven't had any pinging at all.

The nice thing about my system is there will never be a failed EGR or carboned up EGR tube/pipe to clean. Also the engine should never fail on NOX because it is a static system and doesn't rely on a part to control the NOX, it does it naturally with every engine cycle through valve timing.

Higher NOX or cylinder temps if controlled properly will not effect the oil. If there is too much NOX byproduct this can lead to acidic oil and a high TAN lower TBN number on your UOA much quicker than other applications and increased engine wear. Also sludging is a possibility.

I haven't seen this in my UOA's and I have doubled the OCI recommended by Hyundai.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: lexus114
...no egr valve.Mine doesnt have an egr either,and is considered a hard motor on oil.(higher oil temps etc.)


You see more and more of this. GM Ecotecs and Atlas/Vortecs use valve overlap in place of EGR. Chrysler has done that for years as well. My new to me 2008 Hyundai 2.7L is a smooth little bugger. I've had to look at the tach to see if it's running! Very quiet. No pings, etc. It's not overly powerful, but it moves along more than I need it to. I'd never put anything over 87 octane in it.

Joel
 
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Joel,

In the summer and especially after you accumulate some miles on the engine you may find you will need to use an '89 unless Hyundai has tuned this problem out in your model. (Quite possible)

There is no doubt about it though, those 2.7's are a bulletproof engine in most respects, that will run smooth and well for many miles with minimal upkeep.

I love my 2.7 and would get another one in future if it is still offered.
 
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