Anyone add oil filter to a air cooled Volkswagon

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I added one to my 71 38 years ago. I don't remember the details but there are regular kits to install them. Mine was a bypass filter.

A full flow filter is more difficult but there are ways. Google air cooled vw oil filter.
 
Look into some of the suppliers of VW parts. It will depend on the motor a bit as to your options. 40 HP may restrict options somewhat. If you have the 1600, You can get a case full flowed and run external that way or simpler is to replace the oil pump with one that has an oil filter mount built it. It would hang of the bottom driver side rear of the motor.
 
Which engine do you have? I'm not sure the differences in oil systems between the older engines and the 1600.
with the 1600's I've owned I've had a full flow that went inline with a remote oil cooler. It had a plate with barbs that bolted in place of the OEM cooler.
Another setup I've used was a replacement oil pump that had a filter mount built into it.

Here's an easy option
http://cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=202
 
a guy I worked with did that to his 67 bug, he plumbed in a relocation kit and put the wix 51773 (larger fl-1a) and with the larger hoses and extra length he put in, along with the oil cooler as well he was able to house 2extra quarts. his oil temperature went down and the motor seems to be just fine.
However when he went to finalize the setup, the only way to fit the filter was upside down. the ADBV got it's test, and 3 wix's failed. he'd start up in the morning, his valves would chatter for about 10 seconds then everything was fine.
He wouldn't put a pressure guage on, but relied on the oil temp guage, which did nothing.
I'm guessing the excess weight ofthe oil pushed itself through the adbv. He was good throughout the day, only had his issue overnite. Everyone kept telling him to flip the filter but he didn't want to change "the look" of the setup.
 
Ummm...Air cooled VWs had solid lifters and could not, would not "chatter" upon startup under any circumstance. Whatever noise he heard was not the valves.

They used to put bypass filters tapped into the oil sending unit port and it feed back into the oil filler. Way better than nada and probably applicable to an engine of '50s vintage.

The full flow setups were better (though maybe not so applicable to your app) but you have to use very durable hoses. That hose became the "Haysoose" hose, if you catch my drift, because if it burst, the engine'd pump out all the oil in about 10 seconds and seize about 30 seconds after that.

Some of the full flow systems would replace the factory cooler with an adapter with two fittings for hoses(thus increasing airflow to the left bank) and the cooler and filter would be external. This worked better on transporters than bugs because there were many good places for the cooler and filter. There was also a type that tapped into a new oil pump. I've been outta Vee-Dubs so long I wouldn't know where to look, but the fitting that replaces the cooler may be the best bet for you.
 
Originally Posted By: callbay
I have an old 1958 and wondered if this was possible since they just have a screen?

Thanks a lot!

For a 1600, you can get either a remote oil filter set-up with oil lines to the filter mount--like I did this summer to my '69 Bus--or you can get a pump with an integral filter mount. (for Beetle and pre-1968 Buses)
I got an in/out oil pump from CB Performance so I didn't have to drill and tap the engine case.
There is a post with pics around here somewhere, but the search function isn't finding it for me right now.
...For a 36HP, I'm not sure if that pump size is available.
 
Yup, generally there are 2 ways to install a full flow filter in aircooled VWs. The aftermarket oil pump with oil filter mount, and the specially tapped oil pump cover that allowed an external filter to be plumbed into the system. For the latter, you'd have to close off the oil outlet hole in the oil pump and you'd need to tap the main oil gallery in the engine for the oil return hose after the external filter. There is a 3rd way, this involves a special oil drain sump cover that incorporates a small filter in it before the oil pickup tube - not at all recommended, as if it gets blocked by sludge, then the oil pump couldn't suck in oil and your oil pressure would soon drop to dangerously low levels. In case of restriction, oil pumps are good at pumping oil but not at sucking oil.
 
I agree about the sump filters...not my favorite.
I went with the plumbed pump, but it already has the in/out on the pump cover. No drilling/tapping of the case required.

Problem he's going to have is that he has (presumably) the 36 hp engine on a Bug that old, and I don't know if any of these retrofits will work for that. The case and most everything is a different size than a 40 horse or later engine.
 
Adding a filter to this engine is a complete waste of time and resources. I had one of these and put 175,000 trouble-free engine wise miles on it and sold it to someone who ran it for 3 more years. It had the perfect lube system that others w/b wise to adopt! NO FILTER to buy or fill up a landfill with, and a 2.6 QT sump. I actually had a spare screen and never employed it as I just wiped off the existing one when it came out and re-installed. I changed the cardboard gaskets maybe every other year. Adding an external filter just increases your risk of a leak. The only problem these cars had as far as the lubrication system went was clogging of the OIL COOLER with waxey deposits if oil was neglected.
 
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