Switch to dino from synthetic?

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I've been using Rotella 5-40 synthetic in my Kawasaki EX500 for about 11K miles with success, changing about every 3K along with a new filter. The transmission has always been a little crunchy if I'm not careful with my shifts, and based upon what I've read here a lot of folks think the dino Rotella 15-40 resists shear better. It would also be nice to save a few bucks. Are there any disadvantages to going back to a dino oil? How about starting issues when the temperatures drop to the 30s (I still ride if it's above freezing)?
 
I have a bear starting mine in anything below 50 degrees, and the Syn should help some there. I got a new battery, still pretty cold blooded.

But, I have run dino and while the shift quality deteriorates more quickly I haven't noticed anything else.
 
bepperb: Have you checked your valves lately? My bike (2006 EX500) has always fired right up, but after I checked the valves recently it just lights off at the barest touch of the starter button as long as I use the choke if it's cold. The valves were a little tight and I loosened them to the max setting. Don't know if it's that or the TWC-3 I've been adding to the gas (1/2 oz. per 2.5 gallons), but my last two tanks of gas are about 2 mpg better than average.

Java Joe: What oil are you running in your Vulcan?
 
I think conventional (dino) oil is perfectly fine for any application other than frequent sub-freezing start situations.

I run conventional 15W-40 Rotella in my Wing in Tucson during the high heat of summer. No issues; no problems.
 
For the past two winters, prior to putting my baby away in the back of the garage, I drained the oil and poured in Rotella Synthetic. I did that for two reasons.... 1. If I decided to take it for a spin in the winter months, the 5w is important. 2. The AddPack of Rotella Synthetic is really robust and should be one of the best to protect an engine while in storage.

With said and to answer the OP....I switch back and forth from Dino to Synthetic every year. I have fully embraced Delvac 15w40 and love that stuff for Spring, Summer and Fall.

Now, I can offer no scientific proof that switching back and forth is either good or bad.... but so far, I can see no evidences that any damage has been done to my engine (and I have personally seen the top end and the bottom end internals and they are beautiful!!!).
 
After reading some more and thinking about this, it does sound like the 5-40 synthetic will be better for the engine as the weather cools down. I will ride down to 32 degrees, but even if it is that temp. in the morning the engine may have cold-soaked down below that overnight (unheated storage). In other words, it might be 32 degrees out but the engine oil might actually be at 20 degrees. And, as BigJohn mentioned, I suspect the synthetic is a better storage oil for the months when I am not riding.
 
Actually I ended up buying the Delvac 15w40 and put it in the bike. I have heard good things about it and it was much cheaper than the Mobil 15w50. I will see how it performs in my beast. :)
 
Actually, the Shell Rotella, is a dino oil(it's a group 3). You have only changed to another dino oil, that has not been severely hydro cracked!

I guess you haven't tried a true synthetic oil, yet? :)
 
Yeah, "true" synthetic oil like Motul, Amsoil, Maxima, and Redline -- companies that advertise that they use PAO and POE, not leave you guessing like XOM.

BTW, even though RTS is technically a Gp III synthetic, it's basestock derived from slack wax is superior to other Gp III based oils.
 
I've had the same experience with Rotella 15/40 with the crunchy shifts with my '82 Goldwing. I switched to delo 400 15/40 and I use the bike all year round. No problems starting as low as 20 deg. I find it shifts better, but I still need to put a very light load on the shift lever to get the quietest shift.wally world has the best prices on Rotella or delo around.
 
Originally Posted By: TucsonDon
I think conventional (dino) oil is perfectly fine for any application other than frequent sub-freezing start situations.


My bike now has Belray Synthetic in it (which that dealer sells for $7 a quart). Will dino make the clutch slip at all? I need to do a OCI on it soon. Bike has about 4k miles on it.

I live in East Tennessee and I ride year round but usually when it's at least 50*F.
 
Originally Posted By: Lurch
Will dino make the clutch slip at all?



how do you even think to ask such a question?

truely i would like to know!
 
how do you even think to ask such a question?

This is an oil forum, where it's right to ask questions. I don't think my question is off the wall at all, so don't give me a hard time about it.
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Castrol GTX 20-50 used to make the clutch slip in my 1982 Suzuki GS1100E.

I always thought motorcycle oil needs to be used in motorcycles and that regular oil will cause issues like clutch slippage.
 
The fact that its a dino or synthetic has no effect on clutch slippage. However, the additives or lack of additives does.
 
Originally Posted By: 47HO
The fact that its a dino or synthetic has no effect on clutch slippage. However, the additives or lack of additives does.


Oh, OK.

I have Pennzoil Platinum synthetic 10-30. I wonder how it would be if I used 1 quart of that mixed with a qt of Pennzoil dino 10-40? Would that make a good mix, do you think? Bike only takes 2 qts.

Was looking at that Rotella 15-40 in Wally World a while ago. It's $3 a qt here.
 
Originally Posted By: heavyhitter
Dude, dont put any 5w20, 5w30, 10w30 car oil in your bike.


Yes, those are energy conserving and will damage your clutch.
 
But what is it that makes them energy conserving, and thus bad for a motorcycle? Many have little or no moly, which is one of the main things to avoid with a wet clutch.
 
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