I used Berryman Chem-Dip to clean Porsche 356 alloy engine cases and they came out looking new. I used a steel drum to soak the engine case halves, then pressure washed the cases and blew them dry with compressed air. But the stuff was expensive, about $50 for 5 gallons, and hard to handle because it was moderately corrosive to skin. Nowadays, I'm older, hopefully wiser; I would probably leave the cleaning to a machine shop in their tank or oven. I know hot tanking is effective and I suspect oven cleaning probably is too. Your machine shop may want to supply the rod and main bearings. A good shop will install the rod and main bearings, without the crank, torque the caps, measure the inside diameters and then cut the crank for the clearances that you specify. Probably around .0015" to .002" for an approximate 2 inch diameter crank journal on a street engine. There is stuff called "Plastigage," a thin little worm of clay that you place between the crank and bearings and torque the caps to specification. Then you take the caps off and measure the flatness of the little worm to determine the actual bearing clearances. Plastigage is cheap and you may want to try it to check the job your machinist did and try it for your own edification. You'll have to pick a good machine shop which isn't always easy. I used to find that a very clean, orderly shop was often a harbinger of accurate machine work. Ask to see the shop and keep us posted.