ok i ran rotela 15 40 dino for the first oil change only 1000 miles than went to rotela synthetic new formula 5 40 . it worked good for the first 1000 but now with 2500 it shifts horably and i even get the start up chain ratle the connie and zx14 are known for . i was thinking of running a 50 weight because it is garunteed to sheer to the 40 weight soon enough . the mobil silver cap seems like a good choice but i have read that it is not a true sythetic class 3 is this true? i am thinking about mobil mx4t , amsoil , mobil silver 15 50 silver . i have read till my eyes hurt and would just like some opinions . the 1400 motor sheers oil fast so i think going to a 50 weight would be wise. i run purolator pure one filters and change my oil every 3000 or so .
2009 concours 1400
- Thread starter smbear
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I have a bandit 1250, which is close in size to the 14..(1255cc vs 1340cc) and I've found that these bike engines are pretty gentle on oil unless they are ridden harder...
As far as having shearing issues like you said it might be better to start out with a heavier weight so it's less likely to fall out of grade at the end of your OCI.
I've noticed the shift quality decreases right about 2,500 miles with Shell Rotella 15w40..I'like the oil and it perfroms really well, it's the shifting quality goes down at 2500...When drainng the oil it is still very viscous and looks clean.
Been usuing Delvac 1300 and the shifting has really improved when going into first after coming to a stop..That's the only difference I've noticed...I have about 2,600 miles on Delvc and the shifting had only improved during that time..
As far as having shearing issues like you said it might be better to start out with a heavier weight so it's less likely to fall out of grade at the end of your OCI.
I've noticed the shift quality decreases right about 2,500 miles with Shell Rotella 15w40..I'like the oil and it perfroms really well, it's the shifting quality goes down at 2500...When drainng the oil it is still very viscous and looks clean.
Been usuing Delvac 1300 and the shifting has really improved when going into first after coming to a stop..That's the only difference I've noticed...I have about 2,600 miles on Delvc and the shifting had only improved during that time..
Have you considered a HDEO 40w?
SRT 5w40 does NOT hold up. sorry. it dont even come close.
if i can get it down to a susvis of 68.6 in 2.5 hours when supertech 15w40 can go longer and be a 75.0
being 0.32 from a 30wt is not that great. sure it can handle heat, but it clearly cant handle a gearbox.
that poor shifting is a clear sign that you've chewed it up.
since you are in IL, i'll guess you dont ride in the winter anyway, so stick with a hdeo or a sae40. you could go 50/50 10w40 and sae40 even.
if i can get it down to a susvis of 68.6 in 2.5 hours when supertech 15w40 can go longer and be a 75.0
being 0.32 from a 30wt is not that great. sure it can handle heat, but it clearly cant handle a gearbox.
that poor shifting is a clear sign that you've chewed it up.
since you are in IL, i'll guess you dont ride in the winter anyway, so stick with a hdeo or a sae40. you could go 50/50 10w40 and sae40 even.
actually the 1400 is very hard on oil gear box and fuel dilusion is a big problem . anyone no about the 15 50 mobil one being calss 3 ? i dont ride in winter but down to about 40 degrees .you are correct about the 5 40 rotela the 15 40 dino shifted better for longer a clear sighn the oil is done. i want to stay synthetic .what about 20 50
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if you want synth, i got 2 words for ya:
Maxima
Motul
and a *much* lighter wallet.
Maxima
Motul
and a *much* lighter wallet.
Mobil 15W50 "silver cap" according to Mobil the old "red cap" that was popular so they brought it back by demand in the silver cap...That was before the group III "scandal" came about...I think the group III controversy ocurred when they introduced their extended mileage gold cap oils...Is it just related to the gold cap oils or are all the "synthetics" using the same base oil ? Is the rumor even correct ? Who knows.
I've used the Mobil "red cap" 15W50 in an RC51 and it worked well...In the same bike I also used their MX4T 10W40...Couldn't tell a difference in shifting or clutch action between the two at all..Only thing I noticed is the 10W40 made the bike a little more free revving.
before going to a 20W50, try the Mobil silver cap and see how it works...
Have you been to the concours owners group ? You could maybe search around there and see if their are other folks that have experience with how the oil works in their bike. Here's a link.
http://www.concours.org/
I've used the Mobil "red cap" 15W50 in an RC51 and it worked well...In the same bike I also used their MX4T 10W40...Couldn't tell a difference in shifting or clutch action between the two at all..Only thing I noticed is the 10W40 made the bike a little more free revving.
before going to a 20W50, try the Mobil silver cap and see how it works...
Have you been to the concours owners group ? You could maybe search around there and see if their are other folks that have experience with how the oil works in their bike. Here's a link.
http://www.concours.org/
I run RTS in my Concours 14 with ZERO issues -- great shifting all the time. I change it after 3000 miles. Those engines are known for smooth shifting anyway. I agree with Sunruh that the RTS shears down rather quickly, but so do many other oils. The shearing should be offset somewhat by the more robust ZDDP add pack.
I would use Mobil 1 4T or Amsoil 10w-40 if I didn't use RTS
BTW, I thought Rotella Synthetic 5w-40 was an HDEO? No? Only 15w-40?
I would use Mobil 1 4T or Amsoil 10w-40 if I didn't use RTS
BTW, I thought Rotella Synthetic 5w-40 was an HDEO? No? Only 15w-40?
Rotella 5w40 is just the synthetic version of the 15w40. They are both HD diesel service oil. I must have no sense of shifting quality because I have 8 motorcycles and it doesn't make $0.02 difference if I use 5w40, 15w40, 10w30 and I detect no difference after 4000 miles or more riding in shift feel and also brand makes no difference or using synthetic vs basic oil.
All Mobil 1 oil is group IV, or should I say mostly group IV.
Additives are carried with conventional oils and their E.P. oils have some group III added for some reason (increased additives?).
Additives are carried with conventional oils and their E.P. oils have some group III added for some reason (increased additives?).
Quote:
I must have no sense of shifting quality
Doesn't sound like it. You need to educate your toe better!!
I must have no sense of shifting quality
There have been several oil analysis posted here on BITOG that lean towards M-1 being mostly Grp III, at least the 5w-30 and 10w-40 weights. Do a search and see. Those rumors didn't get started by accident. This wasn't just the additive carrier oil either.
The only way to truly know is to do a gas chromatograph analysis or have Mobil say so, and Mobil ain't sayin so.
The only way to truly know is to do a gas chromatograph analysis or have Mobil say so, and Mobil ain't sayin so.
Originally Posted By: ZGRider
There have been several oil analysis posted here on BITOG that lean towards M-1 being mostly Grp III, at least the 5w-30 and 10w-40 weights. Do a search and see. Those rumors didn't get started by accident. This wasn't just the additive carrier oil either.
The only way to truly know is to do a gas chromatograph analysis or have Mobil say so, and Mobil ain't sayin so.
Group III wouldn't be used as an additive carrier.
There have been several oil analysis posted here on BITOG that lean towards M-1 being mostly Grp III, at least the 5w-30 and 10w-40 weights. Do a search and see. Those rumors didn't get started by accident. This wasn't just the additive carrier oil either.
The only way to truly know is to do a gas chromatograph analysis or have Mobil say so, and Mobil ain't sayin so.
Group III wouldn't be used as an additive carrier.
I run Rotella 15W40 in my KLR650. I do notice the shifting will deteriorate around the 2500-3000 mile mark. It's not horrendous but it is noticeable. I have not noticed an appreciable difference in shifting in the Honda Valkyrie. It stays pretty much the same. Not that it's a spectacularly smooth shifting bike. It's not buttery smooth but not as clunky as many modern big bore bikes either. The best shifting bikes I have are my old 1970s Yamaha RDs. They're amazingly light and easy shifters. Better than any modern bikes I've ridden lately.
If you are changing every 3000 miles I would say ditch the 5w40 and get the 15w40. I am with Sunruh on this one the 5w is shearing down. The Rotella dino holds up much better.
Originally Posted By: heavyhitter
If you are changing every 3000 miles I would say ditch the 5w40 and get the 15w40. I am with Sunruh on this one the 5w is shearing down. The Rotella dino holds up much better.
I also agree and have ditched Rotella Synthetic for the 15w40. The 15w40 doesn't loose the smooth feel nearly as quickly as the 5w40 did.
If you are changing every 3000 miles I would say ditch the 5w40 and get the 15w40. I am with Sunruh on this one the 5w is shearing down. The Rotella dino holds up much better.
I also agree and have ditched Rotella Synthetic for the 15w40. The 15w40 doesn't loose the smooth feel nearly as quickly as the 5w40 did.
15w-40's are more shear resistant than 5w-40 sythetics. for 3k mile intervals, go with a 15w-40 just for easy availability. Sunruh knows what he's talking about, with data to back it up.
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