1980 Dodge Van/Bus oil reccomendation...

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A buddy of mine has a 1980 dodge vam he is using for ministry purposes. Sometime during its lifetime the van was legthened, widened, and made taller, and it is now a 20 passenger bus.

It belonged to my buddies father previously. He used it for ministry purposes and for the past 5 years it has sat in a pasture. His father thinks he changed the oil in it... once. He just topped it off otherwise.

We have done a lot of work to make it pass inspection and run better. Making all the lights work so that it is registered as a "bus" was tough.
The only dial that works is a aftermarket temp gauge that someone put in.
Running down the highway at 55-60 MPH, again MPH dial dosent work, the temp says it is about 195 degrees (in 100+ degree weather) and sitting at stoplights it can get up to 210. After it is shut down the temp guage can go up to 230-240 due to the engine no longer having any coolant or air pushed around/through it.
We flushed the coolant system, and it has all new coolant in there.

Before the first oil change I changed out the oil filter (the one on there looked ancient) and we drove it around town. Then we went ahead and cleaned the carburator and finally dropped the hot oil. Replacing the filter a 2nd time.
I wanted to make sure the filter could do its job on a hot engine because I wasnt sure how much junk was in there.

Right now it is on its 1st oil change. Quaker State 10w30 with Auto RX. It takes 5.5 quarts to bring it up to the fill mark after the 12 oz of Auto RX.

It only gets driven on weekends, and my buddy says it has more power. Might just be it has new oil in it for the first time, might be the Auto RX working. We have done another filter change just to make sure things stay clean as possible. Filters are cheap.

My question to you guys is if I should go to a 15w40 diesil oil, or just go with a more robust 10w30? Perhaps this is a good qualifier for a synthetic oil?

BTW, It has a new exhaust system, one of the things that has been replaced, but no catalytic converter (1980 dodge van).

I worry about the standard Dino oil in these conditions. I am sure it gets up to full temp every weekend. What would yall use?
 
Any idea what drivetrain it has in there? Chrysler stopped building big-block engines in 1979, but the stock set aside for truck/RV platforms didn't get used up for a while so there's an outside chance it could be a 400 if this van was actually sold as a chassis cab. More likely its a very, very over-worked 318 or maybe a slightly less-overworked 360. The good news is that a 318 or 360 can take it and keep going for a long, long, long time... just don't expect it to do anything very quickly.

Nothing you posted about the operating temps is in any way abnormal or alarming for that vehicle. Make sure that the viscous fan clutch is in good condition, and the climb at idle should be minimized. Its probably got a 195 degree thermostat, as that was pretty common for 80s smallblock Mopars. The Magnums of the 90s (same engine, revised combustion chambers, intake, and fitted with and MPEFI) often used 210 thermostats.

One other thing I would *definitely* do in an application like that is to install as big of a transmission fluid cooler as I could fit in it, and maybe add an electric pusher cooling fan as well. If its past is really that unknown, be safe and replace all the engine rubber (belts, vacuum hoses, radiator hoses, heater hoses, bypass hose if its a smallblock). Do that, give it good oil and it should serve faithfully, if not speedily.

As for your oil question: I would not recommend going any thicker than 10w40 in a smallblock Mopar, and I would probably run Rotella T Synthetic 5w40 in an application like that if it were mine. Good robust HD engine oil, affordable, good pick for this kind of infrequent but hard use.

Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
A buddy of mine has a 1980 dodge vam he is using for ministry purposes. Sometime during its lifetime the van was legthened, widened, and made taller, and it is now a 20 passenger bus.
 
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Oh, sorry, its a 318.
Supposedly it came with a 4bbl carb. But someone replaced it with a 2bbl. Works well, but it still gets 7 miles to the gallon.
 
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
Oh, sorry, its a 318.
Supposedly it came with a 4bbl carb. But someone replaced it with a 2bbl. Works well, but it still gets 7 miles to the gallon.


I seriously doubt it ever had a 4-bbl. Very few 318s did after the 1950s, and most of those were in 80s Police-spec (K-code) Diplomats and Gran Furies. For torque-demanding truck applications, a large-ish 2-bbl is as good or even better in most cases. The 4-bbl would only help when you really got the RPM up, and that's not something a truck/van engine spends most of its time doing.

Don't overlook the transmission in that application, either. Its taking as much or more of a beating than the engine. It needs good fluid and a BIG cooler, ideally.

7 MPG for an almost 30-year-old 20-passenger gasoline powered bus really is pretty amazingly good. I'd be surprised if most brand-new Powerstroke powered Ford chassis mini busses get much over 10, and gasoline powered ones probably get around 6-8. Its all about weight and wind resistance, and busses have that in spades.
 
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With the age of the car, original construction techniques, it's present condition, and your location as input, I say use the 15-40 for sure -no doubt.
 
10w30, cheapest you can find with a 5K OCI and you will be golden.

Good engines... Carb. could be a bit fussy at times though...
 
I'm planning on doing some work on it tomorrow, I will see if I can find the digital camera and take some pics.

A lot of the insulation on the in cabin engine cover has gone out with time and it gets very hot. It adds to the suffering inside without a working Air conditioner, and makes it no fun to drive. It doesn't singe the hair off your right leg, but it sure feels like it might.

I have some radiant barrier material that is designed for an application such as this, so we will give that a try.
 
The AutoRX is an excellent idea.

I agree with 440 that your tranny is going to need some extra cooling. It ought to already have a transmission cooler on it if it was designed for heavy duty use.

Change the fluid and filter in the tranny as soon as possible.

And fix your speedometer------->>>>>>>>>>>>>
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Officer: Do you have any idea how fast you were going?

Driver: No sir, I can tell you in all honesty--and I am a minister--that I have no idea how fast I was going. You see... my speedometer doesn't work.

Officer: Driver's license and registration please.

Driver: Sir, you are interfering with the Lord's work I'll have you know.

Officer: Driver's license and registration.

Driver: Fine!

Officer: So what's your hurry this morning reverend?

Driver: I've got a bus load of reprobates here in need of redemption and I was on my way to the alter with them if you must know. And I've got one more empty seat back there if you're interested!

Officer: Sir, step out of the vehicle.

Driver: I will not! Acts 4 and verse 19 says "Judge for yourselves whether it is right in God's sight to obey you rather than God."



...to be continued.
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Dan
 
Originally Posted By: bretfraz
I sense an upcoming episode of "Cops". Does the minister in your story have a mullet?


crackmeup2.gif
Maybe...

I don't mean to be sacrilegious, by the way. I'm actually a Sunday school teacher myself, believe it or not.
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Dan
 
Working on the bus did not happen this past weekend. We plan on doing it this weekend.

It already has the transmission lines routed to the radiator. (We know this because we have removed the radiator to patch a pinhole leak with JB Weld.)

Can anyone recommend a decent yet inexpensive aftermarket cooler? I plan on doing a transmission line flush this weekend and figured that installing that wouldn't be too tough. Also would you guys recommend some type of in line filter?

I might get around to dropping the pan if I can figure out the filter and gasket the thing takes.

Thanks.

-Dave.
 
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