What type of wheel bearing grease for a 96 Accord?

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To change the front rotors on this car you must separate the two halves of the hub assembly. Doing this exposes the outside wheel bearing, I figure we should re-grease it because my dad wiped the grease off the outer race.

What grease do we use? The grease that's in there is a clearish light brown.

The grease you suggest should be available locally.

Thank you kindly for taking the time to read this.
 
Any standard NLGI-2 yellow wheelbearing grease should do the job for anything outside of this (Mobil-1 syn grease or moly grease) will definitely contaminate your current yellow grease, causing rapid lubricant breakdown.
 
Quest is correct about using Grade NLGI2 grease. In addition it should have some type of EP additive and have good high temperature resistance appropriate for disc brakes. Mobil 1 synthetic is always a good choice for this application.

Since the integrity of the grease is compromised by wiping, and even more importantly, probably by some rust and road grit likely fell into the bearing cavity, a full wash and regrease of the hub cavity and bearings is in order. Even small amounts of grit markedly reduce the life of a bearing.

Never judge whether a grease is appropriate by its color. Color has little meaning.
 
Corrosion?... pound harder! I had to pound off the rotors from my Escort ZX2. It took an hour each side. The rotors eventually broke in pieces from all the hammering. The corrosion that kept them locked onto the hub was horrible!
 
I saw this on my Frontier a couple weeks ago when replacing the rotors. Even after only about 40k, they were frozen to the hub.

Lots of PB Blaster helps! With enough hammering I was able to get mine off. Road salt is the worst enemy, I never had a problem pulling rotors off when I lived outside the rust belt.
 
This isn't the same as the rotor stuck to the hub.

To change a front rotor with this car one must remove the axle nut and then either pull the hub/wheelbearing apart using a slide hammer (and risk damaging the bearing) then you can get the rotor off.

OR

You can separate the lower ball joint (not an easy job, you need a pull and a BFH) so you can swing the axle shaft out the way.
Then take out the four bolts on the back of the knuckle holding the hub to the knuckle.
Put four longer bolts in place of the ones you took out so you can use an air chisel to massage the hub out from the back.

Either way is difficult and requires special tools.

The first method worked for us on the passenger's side but Dad and I are going to need to use the second method on the driver's side because the hub just won't come apart with the slide hammer.

I Thought it was a two hour job like most cars, boy was I wrong.
 
I just found a third way:
Try-in Tools
It takes the place of the slide hammer. It's easier to use and doesn't expose the bearing like using the slide hammer does.
Too bad it's $140 from tool topia tool topia
I bet I know a repair shop with one of these tools.
 
i just recently converted the front brakes of my 96 accord to 96 prelude front brakes. I am now the proud owner of an accord with rotor over hub in the front. If you want, i can attempt to find the write up that i used.
 
My dad finally finished after 2 days of working on this. The second method of removing the whole hub using the air chisel didn't, the hub was rusted into the knuckle because a good size screw press didn't work. He and my fried were able to press the hub apart.

mKepolas: I wonder why didn't Honda just use the Prelude brake. You don't need to find the write up because it's done, but thanks for the offer.
 
I owned a '93 Accord for 14 yrs..... I feel your pain.
frown.gif
 
Really bad grease info above.

The color of the grease may be meaningless. Dye is often added to the grease. In any case, the color does little or nothing to identify the base thickener of the grease.

Grease is a mixture of thickener (base), oil (conventional or syn), possibly extreme pressure agents, possibly solid lubricants such as graphite, Moly, Teflon, plus tackifiers, dye.

Greases can be mixed ONLY if the thickeners are identical or compatible. The most common grease in stores is lithium base or lithium complex base. These can be mixed, but never with a polyurea factory-filled long-live grease or certain other greases.
http://www.finalube.com/reference_material/grease_compatibility_chart.htm
 
Per Koyo, they pack their bearings with Shell Alvania #2 EP grease at the factory. Koyo is a OEM to Honda, and Alvania is lithium complex. That means you can use Sta-Plex, Coastal Uniplex EP, or Mystik JT-6.
 
Originally Posted By: TylerL
Thanks guys, Mobil 1 synthetic grease it is.
Here is what they sell at autozone

Now we have bigger problems, the drive's side hub won't split a part after using a slide hammer over a 100 times.
Putting the rotors in between the hub is a Dumb stinkin idea Honda!


Honda seemed to finally agree as they changed to a much more conventional rotor setup on our '93 Accord.
 
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