best oil to hold viscosity under extreme conditions

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Originally posted by windnsea00:
Is Lubro Moly 5w40 (purple bottle) a full synthetic? I use it in my BMW M50 and it states on the bottle it's full synthetic...Hopefully it holds up to my hard driving.

Yours is PAO based.
Here in Greece there are a purple and a green labled 5W40. The green one states clearly on the bottle that it is HC (using unconventional hydrocracked-based base oils) and covers the more stringent MB 229.3 specification
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whereas the purple meets only the MB 229.1 .
Price is almost the same with the purple being a little more expensive.
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[ October 11, 2005, 02:03 PM: Message edited by: yannis ]
 
Redline has a high HTHS number. Schaeffer 9000 supreme also but not sure a 5w40 would be ideal for racing...
 
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001496;p=2

"Here are a few quotes from Terry Dyson on Redline:

POE bases are more expensive , thus the PAO and others less costly are used in the oils you list above. Amsoils costs are artificially bumped up by the marketing technique not just the ingredients. I am seeing a positive trend in Amsoil that I hope remains in that they are reformulating to bring back the solvency of the 80's!

Both Amsoils and Redlines tech departments are questionable when it comes to sharing fact about analysis results and formulations( mostly through ignorance I suspect and concern for proprietary issues).

If you can derive a TBN level out of a oil that is spent of adds then that says the base oils are naturally protecting against acidity.RL does that.

RL is mostly POE with a mix of PAO and others and still has reserve acid neutralization capabilty based on every test posted here.

RL starts at a lower TBN like Schaeffers but is more stable in retention and the rate of degredation. Effective TBN and rate of degredation is more important than just looking at a scaled digit on a report, you've got to read/intepret the whole result.

RL shear rates based on proprietary independent lab tests are better than any available OTS motor oils that I have seen, bar none.

For you proof, ASTM D 5275 on RL 10w-30 12/12/2000 = 1.3%
Amsoil ATM = 6.81%
M1 Advanced = 0 % can't get this anymore
M1 Tri Syn = 0.78% can't get this anymore

Would be happy to update those values for the newest of these oils for $5000.


One reason that the oils like M1"look" good is that they do NOT have the natural solvency that A POE or Diester based oil does thus will chemically bypass the carbon deposits that may be embedded internally.

Reason Auto-RX works so well for any engine and any oil that has been used.

GC is using a PAO blend with some German bases that also are very lubricious and that is under the microscope right now for paying customers."

and,

"I'm gonna give you guys some gold here, take note.


I at one time was of the opinion that the article from LE espoused about RL motor oils.

Curtis are you pulling teeth here or "noodling" for data ?

On lubrizols issues with moly/RL you must remember that the chemist for Redline Roy Howell left Lubrizol for RL so there may be some sour grapes going on with their corporate take on his theories.

Note too that if lubrizol is correct then I think Roy would be intimately knowledgeable about the issues.

Since he still builds a fine oil for RL I doubt that Lubrizol is right on this one.

On deeper examination I found in independent ( blinded) testing Dec 2000 ,that the soluble moly that is used is VERY oxdiatively and thermally stable in the oils.Just like it is in Schaeffers products.
During the same tests( all 10w-30 unless noted) we found that On the D 4742 TFOUT:

Redline exceeded > 300 minutes.

Amsoil ATM was 160 min

Amsoil XL 7500 288 min

Amsoil AME 15w-40 182 min

M1 all formulas exceeded 300 min no supersyn tested.

Schaeffers 7000 blend >300min I love this oil for the money.

Rotella T 15w-40 182 min

Schaeffers moly bond 15w-40 223 min

I'm giving BITOG thousands of $ worth of blinded/independent testing here to show that the total formulation is the key on these oils.

All which do well in many applications.

All in all a good quality UOA with proper interpretation and consult with the customer will tell more than these bench tests splitting hairs on one or two aspects of a lubricant. Now if you have access to both UOA's and Bench testing then you have something to compare to.

On Oxidation resistance...... add a little Lube Control to the test oil and blow the TFOUT/RBOT away. No matter the quality of the oil....


Note too that some bases of oils used in Redline, NEO and some Amsoil formulations will artificially show poor TFOUT/RBOT test results alone as a base oil, when in actual practice and properly formulated finished chemistry they are much more resistant over the long haul than some of the petroleum based oils on the bench.


As far as being stable in the presence of water or attracting water and the resultant acidic attack ....I haven't seen that issue with Redline at all."

And this quote from TooSlick:

"I've said this before, but if I was to use something besides Amsoil in my two Audis', it would be the Redline 10w-30 in the 2002 TT roadster and their 10w-40 or 20w-50 in my old Audi 100 sedan. I'd probably run the Redline MT-90 gear lube in the TT as well ....

I really like the Redline; provided you don't extend drain intervals past 10,000 miles. It's very rare to see a Redline sample that is really trashed or thickens out of grade."

TooSlick is the person who convinced that Amsoil made some great products, and the person I will deal with when I order Amsoil.
 
You can run the 9000 5w-40 in a competive race engine with no problem,in fact it will hold up better than many of the above mentioned,,,,,,,,,,BL
 
My two cents worth...my top two picks would be either Redline 15w40 / 15w50 or MotrLube's 15w50. It appears that there are many criteria to consider not only for racing but for general everyday use. Perhaps some of the same things that may make Redline an excellent choice for racing would also make it an excellent choice for everyday use, assuming cost is not a factor. Perhaps the idea of using a straight weight oil may not be a bad idea? Some things to consider would be high temp shear, loss of oil pressure, oil thickening / thinning. Redline absolutely has excellent high temp shear numbers. If Redline is an excellent choice under these abusive conditions then would it be a great product for everyday use? I know that in everyday use one would not need to consider things like high shear rates. What would be the recommended synthetic oil be after the race? What is the closest perfect mix to use when considering the best synthetic? What should one consider? In everyday use would a 0w20 be a better choice than a 0w30? What about a 5w20 versus a 5w30? Isn't flow more critical than oil pressure? If this is true than why, with time, would oil pressure drop? Which synthetic oil would retain oil pressure longer and provide the best protection for the engine long term. Would it be a 0w20, 0w30, 5w20, 5w30? I am not sure what one should consider to be the most important criteria(s) when choosing a good synthetic and the correct weight of synthetic. One of the top things to consider would have to be cold starts. A 0w20 has to flow better and reach operating temperatures (100 C) faster. I believe cold starts should be everyones concern whether you live in Sarasota Florida or Anchorage Alaska. If 90% of wear occurs during startup should our first choice not be a 0w20 synthetic or 5w20? Why would oil pressure drop over time? What would be a better choice to retain that oil pressure - a 5w20 or a 5w30? How much differnce is there between a 0w20 and a 5w30 as far as oil pressure and longevity is concerned all things being equal, assuming we are only talking about a synthetic oil. Would we better off starting with a 5w20 the moving up to a 5w30 and again to a 5w40 if necessary? What about using a 5w30 for the entire life of the engine? Really many of the things to consider when choosing the best synthetic oil would apply to both racing and everyday driving again assuming cost one's least concern and protection / longevity is one's top concern? Who knows maybe ten years from now we may consider putting olive oil in our motors? Then again...
 
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