I'm trying to help a friend with his '95 Intrepid that isn't charging (12V across the battery while it is running). The alternator tested good and every wire I can find has continuity. Could this be caused by a bad voltage regulator? Is there something cheaper I could check before we go replacing the computer?
95 Dodge Intrepid Not Charging
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Yes, sorry I forget to mention that. He replaced that before I got involved. It will start and run just fine until the battery voltage drops too low but the alternator never comes in to take over.
Additional info: I told him to pull the original alternator and have it tested. It checked out fine at AutoZone but he broke something on it when he was reinstalling it so now it has a new one of those as well.
Same symptoms with old/new battery and old/new alternator
Additional info: I told him to pull the original alternator and have it tested. It checked out fine at AutoZone but he broke something on it when he was reinstalling it so now it has a new one of those as well.
Same symptoms with old/new battery and old/new alternator
There's a fuse or fusible link between the alternator output bolt and the battery. Suggest checking this for continuity with a multimeter (disconnect the battery first).
Also...does the alternator light on the dash come on when the key is on, engine not running?
Also...does the alternator light on the dash come on when the key is on, engine not running?
Originally Posted By: brianl703
There's a fuse or fusible link between the alternator output bolt and the battery. Suggest checking this for continuity with a multimeter (disconnect the battery first).
Also...does the alternator light on the dash come on when the key is on, engine not running?
Does the alternator use it's mounting for a ground? I didn't check continuity per se but I did get 12V between the output bolt and ground.
The dash died a year ago and he never replaced it, which complicates everything. It's a jalopy extraordinaire!
There's a fuse or fusible link between the alternator output bolt and the battery. Suggest checking this for continuity with a multimeter (disconnect the battery first).
Also...does the alternator light on the dash come on when the key is on, engine not running?
Does the alternator use it's mounting for a ground? I didn't check continuity per se but I did get 12V between the output bolt and ground.
The dash died a year ago and he never replaced it, which complicates everything. It's a jalopy extraordinaire!
calvin1, head on over to dodgeintrepid.net, and post the problem. Those guys know these cars inside and out.
If the alternator is charging with a tester, the regulator is OK.
AT 12V, the battery seems decent.
Try checking the wires to and from the alternator. Often a large 100A fuse is the culprit.
AT 12V, the battery seems decent.
Try checking the wires to and from the alternator. Often a large 100A fuse is the culprit.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
If the alternator is charging with a tester, the regulator is OK.
AT 12V, the battery seems decent.
Try checking the wires to and from the alternator. Often a large 100A fuse is the culprit.
The testing was done out of the car on a test stand at AutoZone. Also, these cars use an external regulator that is on the same board as the PCM (Dodge had a 4 letter acronym for the engine computer back then but I can't remember what it was).
I'll check the fuses again.
If the alternator is charging with a tester, the regulator is OK.
AT 12V, the battery seems decent.
Try checking the wires to and from the alternator. Often a large 100A fuse is the culprit.
The testing was done out of the car on a test stand at AutoZone. Also, these cars use an external regulator that is on the same board as the PCM (Dodge had a 4 letter acronym for the engine computer back then but I can't remember what it was).
I'll check the fuses again.
Check that the excitor field wire (thin positive current wire) is getting power when the key is on. No power on this wire and the alternator won't charge. The ECM controls this wire to cause the charging to turn on/off.
Could be a faulty connection, bad ignition switch, bad bulb in the dash (battery light), or bad part of the ECM.
Good luck.
Could be a faulty connection, bad ignition switch, bad bulb in the dash (battery light), or bad part of the ECM.
Good luck.
check the connectors on the field wires on the back of the alternator.[censored] go ahead and replace them.
my 82 dodge was not charging,i replaced alt and regulator.the field wires looked okay,slightly tarnished.still had problems,took it to a alternator shop the guy replaced the field wire connectors.have not had a problem since.
my 82 dodge was not charging,i replaced alt and regulator.the field wires looked okay,slightly tarnished.still had problems,took it to a alternator shop the guy replaced the field wire connectors.have not had a problem since.
Battery cables good and clean?
Originally Posted By: urrlord
check the connectors on the field wires on the back of the alternator.[censored] go ahead and replace them.
my 82 dodge was not charging,i replaced alt and regulator.the field wires looked okay,slightly tarnished.still had problems,took it to a alternator shop the guy replaced the field wire connectors.have not had a problem since.
Thanks for the post. That's the way I'm leaning at this point. There are two wires in that connector. One is dark green with an orange stripe that goes to the coil pack. That one has good continuity. The second one is solid dark green and should end up at the PCM. There is a solid dark green in the PCM connector but the two ends don't have continuity between them. Just in case it changes colors between those two ends I went ahead and checked ALL the pins on the PCM connector side but NONE of them work. Tonight I'm going to tap each end with a straight pin to make sure it isn't the connectors themselves and then rig a rough bridge wire if that checks out.
Here's a shade tree mechanic question for anyone that's watching. Where does the alternator's main output cable go? I checked it for continuity and it's shorted to ground. When I checked the same cable to the positive battery cable it blipped a little on the meter and then went back to open like there's a capacitor or winding that get's charged for a second. Does that sound right?
check the connectors on the field wires on the back of the alternator.[censored] go ahead and replace them.
my 82 dodge was not charging,i replaced alt and regulator.the field wires looked okay,slightly tarnished.still had problems,took it to a alternator shop the guy replaced the field wire connectors.have not had a problem since.
Thanks for the post. That's the way I'm leaning at this point. There are two wires in that connector. One is dark green with an orange stripe that goes to the coil pack. That one has good continuity. The second one is solid dark green and should end up at the PCM. There is a solid dark green in the PCM connector but the two ends don't have continuity between them. Just in case it changes colors between those two ends I went ahead and checked ALL the pins on the PCM connector side but NONE of them work. Tonight I'm going to tap each end with a straight pin to make sure it isn't the connectors themselves and then rig a rough bridge wire if that checks out.
Here's a shade tree mechanic question for anyone that's watching. Where does the alternator's main output cable go? I checked it for continuity and it's shorted to ground. When I checked the same cable to the positive battery cable it blipped a little on the meter and then went back to open like there's a capacitor or winding that get's charged for a second. Does that sound right?
If it really has an external regulator, it surely can be faulty, and should be checked out.
My bad.
My bad.
Pretty sure these cars use the ECM as the external regulator. ECM should be complaining about the low voltage. Codes can be pulled turning key on-off-on-off-on.
Might be dandy rigging up a $10 solid state regulator for, say, a 70's dart, either permanently or as a diagnostic aid.
Might be dandy rigging up a $10 solid state regulator for, say, a 70's dart, either permanently or as a diagnostic aid.
Right. There should be codes.
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Originally Posted By: mechtech2
If it really has an external regulator, it surely can be faulty, and should be checked out.
My bad.
It's a field current enabling by the PCM. I didn't know that it was done on the OBDI setups ..but it is on the later models. There the PCM reads all kinds of things, including battery temp, to determine how it's going to modulate the field windings.
The main lug has always gone to a junction point like the starter ..same as the battery.
Are you sure the tensioner is good on this engine. I found my mother's car with a low cell and filled it to the right level and charged the battery. I then noticed that an off idle hesitation ..that I thought was inherent to the engine, disappeared. It returned after a day or two. The battery was never going to charge to the point of not causing the alter to drag excessively due to the bad cell. Replaced the battery ..same deal in a few days ..just not as bad. The tensioner would not allow the belt to have enough traction to prevent the alternator from quietly slipping.
If it really has an external regulator, it surely can be faulty, and should be checked out.
My bad.
It's a field current enabling by the PCM. I didn't know that it was done on the OBDI setups ..but it is on the later models. There the PCM reads all kinds of things, including battery temp, to determine how it's going to modulate the field windings.
The main lug has always gone to a junction point like the starter ..same as the battery.
Are you sure the tensioner is good on this engine. I found my mother's car with a low cell and filled it to the right level and charged the battery. I then noticed that an off idle hesitation ..that I thought was inherent to the engine, disappeared. It returned after a day or two. The battery was never going to charge to the point of not causing the alter to drag excessively due to the bad cell. Replaced the battery ..same deal in a few days ..just not as bad. The tensioner would not allow the belt to have enough traction to prevent the alternator from quietly slipping.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Pretty sure these cars use the ECM as the external regulator. ECM should be complaining about the low voltage. Codes can be pulled turning key on-off-on-off-on.
Might be dandy rigging up a $10 solid state regulator for, say, a 70's dart, either permanently or as a diagnostic aid.
Dodge had been doing externally regulated charging for quite some time, using the pcm to adjust the alternator output.
The key dance to pull codes works on the OBD-II equipped Treps but I don't now if you can do it with a '95. I know the 2nd gen Intrepids it worked on (1998-2004), but don't know about any of the 1st gens, and I definately don't don't know about an OBD-I 1995 model. if you want a good source of Intrepid info, go to dodgeintrepid.net. I have not been on in a few years so no idea how the site is these days, but when I was over there, it always was a very informative place.
The ECM will log a code, but you would never know it until you look for it. Might have lit the battery light on the dash telling you there is a charging circuit issue. could be a loose belt, could be the alternator itself is failing. Possible the regulator in the ecm is bad but that's probably the last thing I would figure would go.
Pretty sure these cars use the ECM as the external regulator. ECM should be complaining about the low voltage. Codes can be pulled turning key on-off-on-off-on.
Might be dandy rigging up a $10 solid state regulator for, say, a 70's dart, either permanently or as a diagnostic aid.
Dodge had been doing externally regulated charging for quite some time, using the pcm to adjust the alternator output.
The key dance to pull codes works on the OBD-II equipped Treps but I don't now if you can do it with a '95. I know the 2nd gen Intrepids it worked on (1998-2004), but don't know about any of the 1st gens, and I definately don't don't know about an OBD-I 1995 model. if you want a good source of Intrepid info, go to dodgeintrepid.net. I have not been on in a few years so no idea how the site is these days, but when I was over there, it always was a very informative place.
The ECM will log a code, but you would never know it until you look for it. Might have lit the battery light on the dash telling you there is a charging circuit issue. could be a loose belt, could be the alternator itself is failing. Possible the regulator in the ecm is bad but that's probably the last thing I would figure would go.
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95 Concorde 3.5 (same car) does the key dance, I've done that dance.
When a bolt fell out of the alt mount of my 91 dakota, equipped with PCM-controlled alt, voltmeter, but NO battery light (doesn't need one), got a check engine light and reduced meter reading as my only indications of trouble (slipping belt).
Some of these mopar alts have a hole you can stick a nail in, grounding the field, making them run 100% as a test mode. If yours qualifies (check this out please!) you should get 16+ volts, briefly please...
When a bolt fell out of the alt mount of my 91 dakota, equipped with PCM-controlled alt, voltmeter, but NO battery light (doesn't need one), got a check engine light and reduced meter reading as my only indications of trouble (slipping belt).
Some of these mopar alts have a hole you can stick a nail in, grounding the field, making them run 100% as a test mode. If yours qualifies (check this out please!) you should get 16+ volts, briefly please...
Originally Posted By: eljefino
95 Concorde 3.5 (same car)
Chrysler Concorde, Eagle Premiere (I think) and Dodge Intrepid. Canada apparently only offered the Chyrsler Intrepid.
95 Concorde 3.5 (same car)
Chrysler Concorde, Eagle Premiere (I think) and Dodge Intrepid. Canada apparently only offered the Chyrsler Intrepid.
The Key cycle will work on this car.
You turn the key on/off 3 times and it will start flashing the codes.
1 flash, pause, then 2 flashes = 12 and that is the start of the report
Then any codes you have in there here... You are looking for codes of something like 41 - too low, and 45 I think is too high if my memory serves me right
Then 5 quick flashes, pause, followed by 5 quick flashes = 55 the end of the report.
You turn the key on/off 3 times and it will start flashing the codes.
1 flash, pause, then 2 flashes = 12 and that is the start of the report
Then any codes you have in there here... You are looking for codes of something like 41 - too low, and 45 I think is too high if my memory serves me right
Then 5 quick flashes, pause, followed by 5 quick flashes = 55 the end of the report.
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