What oil should I use for cruising at 12,000 rpm?

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Type of use, would determine the frequency for ocis. What does the manual say, for severe use.

What's the phrase, use a good oil and change it often?

On most of the recent bikes, that I have owned, braking hard or stopping on slopes, the red oil light comes on, some times.

I just hold the clutch in, and increase the rpms slightly, the red light, goes out quick.

I am gulity of the search, for the ultimate bike. But I am slowing down to a new bike, every 2 to 3 years.

Getting older, trying to make up for lost time, not enough money at the time. I am trying to sample, some of the good ones, while I can. LOL.
 
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This is probably the most complete, educated, and believable argument I have heard so far.

The question then follows: what would be the best oil filter for my 2001 Kawasaki Ninja EX250-F15? Wouldn't the oil filter catch most of these abrasives? I always stick to OEM Honda/Kaw filters (same thing different label).

I now see how the slightly thinner is better argument actually does work. I will stick to Shell Rotella T 5w-40. So far consumption only exponentially goes up if I exceed 10,000 RPM.

I have stock gearing so according to http://faq.ninja250.org/speed/ that would mean that 85 indicated is my practical top speed. Not bad.
 
Originally Posted By: brian12
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One more concern is that these engines are known for having a oil pumping issue: under hard braking there is oil pressure loss due to poorly designed return galleries.
I'm curious to know where you learned about this problem. I've noticed myself that my bike's oil warning light comes on under hard braking and I've always wondered what the deal is and if it was only my bike. I guess I know now that it's not just mine.


http://forums.ninja250.org
http://faq.ninja250.org

The monolithic bible for these bikes.

I personally have never experienced this because I use a Rotella 5w-40 which raised my oil pressure beyond what any car oil had and I keep my oil topped up to slightly over the full mark.
 
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Originally Posted By: ViragoBry
For longevity's sake, have you considered a bike that's more suited to the type of riding that you're doing? The 250 has proven to be a bullet-proof powerplant since the 80's, but common sense says that running anything to 100% of it's capacity every time you use it will wear it out more quickly. An expensive boutique oil may delay the effect, but it won't prevent it.

I'd highly recommend looking into a larger bike that can deliver the performance you're needing without being maxed out to do so.


The bike has been designed for sustaining maximum output for long periods of time. It is a liquid cooled race bike.

My Kawasaki 250 cruises comfortably up to 100 mph and I keep it in absolute top notch mechanical shape. I am my own mechanic so I have minimum cost overhead. I am not going to waste my money on a MUCH more expensive larger displacement bike that burns more gas. Look at the simple economics of amortisation for a $6000 600cc that has more expensive parts and uses more gas versus the $2000 250cc that has cheaper parts and uses less gas. Lower initial cost and lower maintenance cost. Plus, these bikes last longer than the typical R6 owner does if you follow my drift.
 
Originally Posted By: toocrazy2yoo
Originally Posted By: ViragoBry
For longevity's sake, have you considered a bike that's more suited to the type of riding that you're doing? The 250 has proven to be a bullet-proof powerplant since the 80's, but common sense says that running anything to 100% of it's capacity every time you use it will wear it out more quickly. An expensive boutique oil may delay the effect, but it won't prevent it.

I'd highly recommend looking into a larger bike that can deliver the performance you're needing without being maxed out to do so.


I agree. I can't stand the buzzing of my Suzuki Bandit 1200S, so I'm going Concours14. Pretty sure it's the way to go:

2009-Concours-14.jpg


The Kawasaki Concours 14 (or 1400GTR as its known outside the USA) is a mature, classy sports tourer. So we're pleased to see that its new colors -- black or a rich, deep red -- reflect that. Both are better than the previous silver at making the bike look expensive, which at $13,499, it really isn't. For 2009 it receives no other mechanical changes, but with a 155bhp engine and 155mph top speed, it didn't really need any.


You are telling me that your one thousand two hundred cc engine is buzzy? I should put you on a 1966 two stroke, 50cc vespa for 10000 miles to cure your problem
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Originally Posted By: brian12
I've never heard of the 250's engine wearing out prematurely. They are known to go over 100,000 miles if they are well taken care of.

As far as cruising at 12,000 rpm, I don't think the engine was designed to do that and I think 9 or 10,000 rpm is about it. At 12,000 rpm you must be going around 90 mph in 6th gear. I'm not sure why you think you need to cruise at that speed or how you get away with it without the cops coming after you.

I have a 250 myself and honestly I have to say the best oil I've used so far is Belray. It's pricey being a motorcycle specific oil though.


Show me ONE 250cc Kawasaki that has over 100K on a single engine build and I will show you a green dog.

Also, in case you were wondering, there is ONE police officer in PA on the turnpike, ONE police officer on the Ohio turnpike, ONE police officer in Wisconsin, ONE police officer in WV, but a load of state troopers in MD. YMMV

There are rumors though that the new slow as [censored] 2008+ 250cc models have engines that last forever because oil passages are redesigned.
 
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