Honestly, this is the first time I've ever heard of a Honda engine doing this.
Honda mower, sticky valves, non-warrantee issue
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if it still does what you describe, you need to put a compression gauge on it and see what psi your getting.
It's very easy to pull the valve cover off and watch the valve motion and see if a valve is hanging up, you could go buy a new gasket for a couple bucks or just use rtv to seal it up.
you would have to use some seriously bad gas for that to be the problem, and i doubt it's a sticking valve. we have 10% ethanol gas in CT and it has caused me carb problems on my boats when leaving gas in the carb over the winter. Moisture gets in the carb because of the ethanol and will rust steel parts and cause sediment. But i've used the same gas, just making sure I never get grass or dust in the mower gas tank, and I've never had an engine problem. i also keep the mower in my garage, if you store it outside in a shed and have temperature swings and condensation then that can cause carb problems.
without seeing and hearing it first hand I would guess the no start issue if there is compression that it's a carb problem oran electrical problem. Check the wiring at the coil and at the throttle and make sure the coil isn't grounding out.
It's very easy to pull the valve cover off and watch the valve motion and see if a valve is hanging up, you could go buy a new gasket for a couple bucks or just use rtv to seal it up.
you would have to use some seriously bad gas for that to be the problem, and i doubt it's a sticking valve. we have 10% ethanol gas in CT and it has caused me carb problems on my boats when leaving gas in the carb over the winter. Moisture gets in the carb because of the ethanol and will rust steel parts and cause sediment. But i've used the same gas, just making sure I never get grass or dust in the mower gas tank, and I've never had an engine problem. i also keep the mower in my garage, if you store it outside in a shed and have temperature swings and condensation then that can cause carb problems.
without seeing and hearing it first hand I would guess the no start issue if there is compression that it's a carb problem oran electrical problem. Check the wiring at the coil and at the throttle and make sure the coil isn't grounding out.
Originally Posted By: 4esorselrahc
If I'm not mistaken, my manual says to run 89 octane or higher with my engine (GCV 160). However, my new HRX217 (GCV190) will run on 87 octane. Interesting.
My GCV 160 runs fine on 87 but my wifes uncle has a honda lawnmower and says to use 93...thats what we have here. My try that when its time to fill up.
If I'm not mistaken, my manual says to run 89 octane or higher with my engine (GCV 160). However, my new HRX217 (GCV190) will run on 87 octane. Interesting.
My GCV 160 runs fine on 87 but my wifes uncle has a honda lawnmower and says to use 93...thats what we have here. My try that when its time to fill up.
Originally Posted By: 4esorselrahc
If I'm not mistaken, my manual says to run 89 octane or higher with my engine (GCV 160). However, my new HRX217 (GCV190) will run on 87 octane. Interesting.
86, unless they must have changed it at some point.
Here's links to the current manuals for gcv160 and gcv190
They both say:
This engine is certified to operate on unleaded gasoline with a pump
octane rating of 86 or higher.
Refuel in a well-ventilated area with the engine stopped. If the engine
has been running, allow it to cool first. Never refuel the engine inside
a building where gasoline fumes may reach flames or sparks.
You may use regular unleaded gasoline containing no more than 10%
Ethanol (E10) or 5% Methanol by volume. In addition, Methanol must
contain cosolvents and corrosion inhibitors. Use of fuels with content
of Ethanol or Methanol greater than shown above may cause starting
and/or performance problems. It may also damage metal, rubber, and
plastic parts of the fuel system. Engine damage or performance
problems that result from using a fuel with percentages of Ethanol or
Methanol greater than shown above are not covered under warranty.
If I'm not mistaken, my manual says to run 89 octane or higher with my engine (GCV 160). However, my new HRX217 (GCV190) will run on 87 octane. Interesting.
86, unless they must have changed it at some point.
Here's links to the current manuals for gcv160 and gcv190
They both say:
This engine is certified to operate on unleaded gasoline with a pump
octane rating of 86 or higher.
Refuel in a well-ventilated area with the engine stopped. If the engine
has been running, allow it to cool first. Never refuel the engine inside
a building where gasoline fumes may reach flames or sparks.
You may use regular unleaded gasoline containing no more than 10%
Ethanol (E10) or 5% Methanol by volume. In addition, Methanol must
contain cosolvents and corrosion inhibitors. Use of fuels with content
of Ethanol or Methanol greater than shown above may cause starting
and/or performance problems. It may also damage metal, rubber, and
plastic parts of the fuel system. Engine damage or performance
problems that result from using a fuel with percentages of Ethanol or
Methanol greater than shown above are not covered under warranty.
Well, I'm clearly mistaken (going off of memory
). That is what my GCV190 manual says, I'll dig around and see if can locate my manual for the 160 (it's like 6-7 years old now), but this engine is on an MTD mower. I should say that I have been running 89 octane gas in it with no sticky vavles at all. Changed the oil meticulously too. Still runs like day one...
I'm curious as to what oil those with problems are using.
Dealer wanted to install straight 30 weight when he set mine up.
(I only have 3+ hours on it).
I insisted on 10W-30. I used a high mileage oil because it's an
air cooled engine.
Will go to synthetic after the 5 hour break-in.
Any comments?
Dealer wanted to install straight 30 weight when he set mine up.
(I only have 3+ hours on it).
I insisted on 10W-30. I used a high mileage oil because it's an
air cooled engine.
Will go to synthetic after the 5 hour break-in.
Any comments?
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
I'm curious as to what oil those with problems are using.
Dealer wanted to install straight 30 weight when he set mine up.
(I only have 3+ hours on it).
I insisted on 10W-30. I used a high mileage oil because it's an
air cooled engine.
Will go to synthetic after the 5 hour break-in.
Any comments?
I drained the 5 hour oil and put in Castrol 10W-30 Synthetic blend.
I'm curious as to what oil those with problems are using.
Dealer wanted to install straight 30 weight when he set mine up.
(I only have 3+ hours on it).
I insisted on 10W-30. I used a high mileage oil because it's an
air cooled engine.
Will go to synthetic after the 5 hour break-in.
Any comments?
I drained the 5 hour oil and put in Castrol 10W-30 Synthetic blend.
I drained mine after 5 hours as well, and installed YB Pennzoil 10w-30
Hi, i am a auto tech that has a friends honda gcv190 that quit running,the carb was gummed so i cleaned with amsoil powerfoam, however after pulling forever and getting it to run 1-2 times it pops slightly out the intake and quits, i have checked cam timing ,belt driven, flywheel key etc. i loosened the valves to see if i could get the intake to seal with no luck, i am suspecting that it got dosed with two stroke fuel as the owner stated it was smoking a bit, the blade shows sign of impact, and the valve cover had its seal broke by yard debris...but this has be stumped, with no vacuum port to see what is going on once it does start i'm getting frustrated. i suspect that the intial start is when the valve lift is low however when rpm hits it flings the valve open and is sticking intermittent at higher lifts. i have had the cover off a dozen or so times a operated the valves by hand and can't feel it sticking...thanks.
the E-10 we get around here will turn to what looks like clear grape jelly in the bowl in no time.
This sound liek a perfect time to try MMO in th oil-2 ounces at most
Steve
This sound liek a perfect time to try MMO in th oil-2 ounces at most
Steve
over the years there have been many fuel related problems with 2 cycle equipment - especially outboard motors. I believe that my "learnings" from that may help. here is what I would recommend:
Run premium fuel - preferrably from BP. (their Ultimate is actually refined cleaner than other fuels)
Add Stabil to every can of gas when you fill the can.
run a sythetic oil.
Run premium fuel - preferrably from BP. (their Ultimate is actually refined cleaner than other fuels)
Add Stabil to every can of gas when you fill the can.
run a sythetic oil.
Well Well, I am a pretty die-hard Honda guy and now I'm having an issue with my GCV160 powered mower. I bought it last year at Home Depot and it was obviously a returned unit discounted from $400 to $250 and I rolled the dice and bought it.
It's been great...until now. I started it up, changed the oil and started it again and to let it run the last of the gas out before storing for winter. I was doing this with several OPE engines and when I was done I had about 8-10 ounces of gas left so I poured it in the mower and pulled the cord.....nothing.
Spark? Good. Gas? I had just run it and when I loosened the carb bowl bolt, gas poured out I even shot some starting fluid in the intake. Compression? I don't have many tools up here at our cabin in Vermont so I just stuck my finger in the spark plug hole while my wife pulled the start cord, not an optimal method but it blew my finger off the hole.
So now I had to take the valve cover off because I suspected a stuck valve but found this instead:
I am leaving for Florida first thing tomorrow morning so I guess that this will be waiting for me in the spring.
The valve cover looks like it has been off before and this is the last time that I will buy a discounted/returned item.
It's been great...until now. I started it up, changed the oil and started it again and to let it run the last of the gas out before storing for winter. I was doing this with several OPE engines and when I was done I had about 8-10 ounces of gas left so I poured it in the mower and pulled the cord.....nothing.
Spark? Good. Gas? I had just run it and when I loosened the carb bowl bolt, gas poured out I even shot some starting fluid in the intake. Compression? I don't have many tools up here at our cabin in Vermont so I just stuck my finger in the spark plug hole while my wife pulled the start cord, not an optimal method but it blew my finger off the hole.
So now I had to take the valve cover off because I suspected a stuck valve but found this instead:
I am leaving for Florida first thing tomorrow morning so I guess that this will be waiting for me in the spring.
Super oldie thread here, but I guess you could call it "sticky valve" since neither are doing anything in this case.
Another oddity I haven't come across on the Honda GCs. I'd have to look up how to get the valve timing lined back up properly..
Another oddity I haven't come across on the Honda GCs. I'd have to look up how to get the valve timing lined back up properly..
Don't forget the timing belt change, at the ànnual serviçe. Not really, I would guess its a little rare. I have done a few Honda tune ups but never seen this.
Harvey
Harvey
Seems odd that belt sprocket doesn't have the sheave on the top, but instead has one on the bottom, where the belt doesn't have room to pop off.
I think the sheave is on the bottom because the camshaft/sprocket slides in from the "bottom" side of the head in this photo, and the timing belt can be slipped on to the sprocket from the "top" side.
In this case, it's a super simple system. No tensioner or any of that jazz -- it's just a slip fit over the sprocket. Since it just slipped off, and appears to still be engaged on the crankshaft side, I'd just move the crankshaft so the piston is at TDC, orient the camshaft so that it's at TDC, and slip the belt back on the camshaft sprocket.
I, too, have never heard of a slipped belt on one of these engines. Inspect the camshaft sprocket carefully to make sure there are no defects that would throw the belt. That could have been the reason it was traded in the first place.
Fortunately, parts for Honda engines are extremely reasonable. Amazon has a complete new camshaft assembly for 15 bucks delivered to your door. You might just want to replace it while you're in there, just in case there's a defect in the original part. Honda # 14320-Z8D-000.
http://www.amazon.com/14320-Z8D-000-Genuine-Honda-Complete-Camshaft/dp/B00G99G2D0
In this case, it's a super simple system. No tensioner or any of that jazz -- it's just a slip fit over the sprocket. Since it just slipped off, and appears to still be engaged on the crankshaft side, I'd just move the crankshaft so the piston is at TDC, orient the camshaft so that it's at TDC, and slip the belt back on the camshaft sprocket.
I, too, have never heard of a slipped belt on one of these engines. Inspect the camshaft sprocket carefully to make sure there are no defects that would throw the belt. That could have been the reason it was traded in the first place.
Fortunately, parts for Honda engines are extremely reasonable. Amazon has a complete new camshaft assembly for 15 bucks delivered to your door. You might just want to replace it while you're in there, just in case there's a defect in the original part. Honda # 14320-Z8D-000.
http://www.amazon.com/14320-Z8D-000-Genuine-Honda-Complete-Camshaft/dp/B00G99G2D0
Thanks for the feedback, fellas. There doesn't appear to be any damage to the pulley or the belt so I plan on just slipping the belt back on when the piston is at TDC and the pulley marks are lined up like Jason suggested. Unfortunately, it will be about 6 months before I will be back at the cabin.
This must have happened when the engine was coughing and spitting as I ran the gas out. Odd and unusual but I have used this mower pretty hard for two summers without issue until now so I hope that this is just an anomaly.
This must have happened when the engine was coughing and spitting as I ran the gas out. Odd and unusual but I have used this mower pretty hard for two summers without issue until now so I hope that this is just an anomaly.
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