Best oil for OLD engine, no cat etc.

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cdherman

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Aug 27, 2005
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KC MO
My dad bought a Ford F100 with a 240 I6 in '65, the first year for the 240/300. The original engine burned oil from the get go and didn't run well. In 69, dad had a genuine Ford reman engine put in. Ford appears to have done a good job -- that engine has great compression, burns no oil and runs like a champ now almost 37 years later. It has some mild leaks in various seals and gaskets --but never enough to cause any more problem than a drop or two of oil on the floor.

I have restored the truck, but left the engine alone, as a testament to the longevity of straight sixes.

Now, this engine saw diesel engine oil since about 1980, but now its seems that new diesel oils are trying to be gas oils as well. I am worried that I am missing out on some important additives (moly? nickle?) that they are taking out to protect the catalytic conv. on newer engines.

I'd go with something like Mobile 1 Delvac (instead of the current Rotella T) but I am worried that full synthetics are going to run out. And besides, I drive this truck about 1500 miles per year -- and I like to go with 15w40 in summer and 10w30 in winter. So 750 miles on a change of full synthetic seems stupid.

I am looking for well argued opinions (do not just stay "Rotella is fine" without justifying it). I think a diesel engine oil is the best, and I think one that is formulated for large diesels that still has all the antiwear additives is best. What about Chevron Delo?

I want to give this truck to my grandkids someday, and if possible, I'd like to do it with the current engine not having ever needed rebulding. What oil is best for the lightly used, old engine that wants to last FOREVER.

Sorry to be posting a topic that has doubtless been discussed before. But I couldn't exactly find the answer I was looking for when I searched.

Thanks
 
Naw just keep on using the same diesel spec oils, you are doing just fine. The diesel spec oils are the closest thing to the oils of the past when it comes to the zinc levels that your camshaft likes to see.
 
Rotella "Synthetic" 5W-40.

It's readily available at Walmart, it's not really synthetic (it's Group III), it has a stout additive package with a high TBN, so in a limited use situation like yours, it will prevent sludge and acid buildup.

And, it will do well with your flat-tappet cam.

My other choice would be Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic 10W-30. It's an incredible oil, and it is designed for vehicles which need a stout add-pack. I wouldn't worry about "run-out" with it.

smile.gif
 
Chevron DELO 400 10w30, this will keep this engine super clean and free of wear. You dont need a synthetic , the seals and gaskets in 1969 were not desinged for use with synthetic oil. Second choice would be Valvoline Maxlife.
 
Wow, this forum rocks when it comes to speedy replies.

Yes, it was the conventional Delo 400 that I was eyeing -- good additive package and made for diesels, and not synthetic.

I might have to read up on Valvoline Maxlife -- I had assumed that all that crap about high mileage engines was just marketing. I assumed they put a little something in there to swell my old seals and other than that, its just oil.

I want the best additive package that I can get.
 
I like Ford 6 cyl pickups. Really not a diesel oil but a heavy duty motor oil.The oil is formulated to withstand the rigors of commercial use in diesel and gasoline engines.
 
I like the Rotella T Syn 5w40 for an application such as this. Good ZDDP levels for the valvetrain components and great cold weather specs. Delvac 1 is the Gold Standard if you don't mind the cost.
 
quote:
cdherman:

.... I am looking for well argued opinions (do not just stay "Rotella is fine" without justifying it). I think a diesel engine oil is the best, and I think one that is formulated for large diesels that still has all the antiwear additives is best. ....
Click to expand...
I wouldn't rule out synthetics.

The Mobil 1 10W-40 motorcycle oil would be perfect for your use. It meets API SG, not the current automotive API spec, and has the levels of zinc and phosphorous you can't get in oils that meet the current API service grade.

It's right in your viscosity range.

Because it's designed for motorcycles - many of which are driven little and parked a lot, it was formulated with relatively high polarity, which means it sticks to metal to protect it during long periods of vehicle storage.

You could be pretty well assured that if you ever experienced an engine failure, it wouldn't be from wear.


.
 
yes, but at what cost? I think that at 8 bucks a quart that M1 10W-40 MC oil is over twice the cost of the Rotella 5W-40 synthetic. I think that you are using the right stuff right now for that truck. It works out to about $3.50/qt for a decent synthetic oil. I have a van with the 300 six, and it likes a 40 weight oil. And you've got some miles on that engine as well, like mine. Stick with a 40 weight oil. You would probably do well with even the Delo 15W-40 unless you start it a lot in sub-freezing temps.
 
I don't think a synthetic is a good choice for me, given that I already have some drips. They are tollerable now, but if they get much worse, the'll be annoying.

And, the cost of synthetic makes little sense when I will be driving at most 2000 miles per year and even with a broad range synthetic oil, I will still change the oil yearly. I'd rather stick with my twice yearly oil change anyhow.

What mainly interests me are the antiwear, antioxidation packages. I never drive the engine enough to benefit from stability and detergent issues, though I am sure that there is a lot of crud in the engine that a good oil would slowly chew away at.

Someone said Delo came in 10w-30 as well. I need to find some.
 
Do an ARX clean-up (I'd do two back-to-back were it mine). I ran one through a car I cared little about -- 1979 FORD Fairmont, L6-200/1V -- and it was a help with some oil leaks. Replaced valve cover gasket beforehand while doing a "MolaSoak" (search). Engine varnish on valvetrain was a solid dark maraschino cherry red before cleaning.

FP60 FUEL POWER was also a big help with todays cat *** gasoline (compared to what "regular" used to be), and idle was smooth no matter how hot the ambient temp. Plus, no more worries about water in fuel. Greatly consistent fuel performance.

I de-smogged engine retaining EGR and heated air inlet plus PCV, dialled in an entirely new advance curve and saw, with above help, like-new compression, oil consumption greatly reduced (rings were likely carboned tight), and mpg improvements (not to mention far better part to full throttle performance).

This was a lightly used vehicle when we bought it, and we kept it through a teenagers high school shenanigans and it ran predictably and reliably. Only other change was a mechanically-progressive HOLLEY 2V(5200 series) from a well-regarded aftermarket tuner (Found on the FORD 6 Forum). Engine was run on MOBIL ONE 10W-30.

That 240/300 is the only FORD six I would want to have in the future, the 200 was down on power too much.

The ARX will help in all ways, bring that motor interior back to like-new.

I'd then go with DELO 10W-30 (FORD big truck dealer) and BALDWIN B2-HPG filter, using LC20 LUBE CONTROL on 6-mos to 12-mos/6000-mile oil changes.

http://catalog.baldwinfilter.com/
http://www.lubecontrol.com
http://auto-rx.com

MolaSoak http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=000633#000003

(Only Molakules post & mine, about half-way down) http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=002299#000012

Oil is cheap. The engine isn't. Nor is your desire to pass it on (just measured differently).

Good luck.

[ September 01, 2005, 11:12 PM: Message edited by: TheTanSedan ]
 
Maybe you should try "Classic Form" from Specialty Formulations. Here is some info:

Classic Car buffs will appreciate the added rust and corrosion protection this fluid provides when added to their favorite motor oil.

If you store your car for any length of time, it brings piece of mind to know that rusting and corrosion are inhibited by using Classic Form. Immediately after the engine is shut down, cooling of the engine allows some condensation to form. If the internals are not protected, rust can form. Classic Form Classic Car Engine Preservative coats the internals with added films of anti-rust and anti-corrosion inhibitors.

Seems like a great product.
 
I have a 1951 Plymouth with the 217.8 CID original engine, crankshaft -0.010 and bored +0.30. I used a good 5W-30 until the overhaul had about 1,500 on it and switched to Mobil 1 15W-50. (if Mobil 1 10W-40 had been available several years back, I would've used that grade). Does it leak some? Yes, at the rear main oil seal--but all those old cars seeped oil at that seal be they Ford, GM, Chrysler, or the independents. I do not believe you're going to find your Ford will leak or seep synthetic much worse than non/syn. Also, in a seldom- driven vehicle like your '65 or my '51, a 15W synthetic is (according to me--for what that's worth!) plenty 'thin' to lubricate quickly in all but perhaps below 0*F. My 6-volt starts at +5*F and the oil pressure (mechanical gauge) will rise quickly. Having said all the above, the Rotella T should be excellent for your application. Chevron Delo is another great choice.
 
I should have added that I used MOBIL ONE 15W-50 in my 1971 383 Chrysler very successfully, and happily recommend it. I changed it over at about 95m miles, and drove it another 40m over the next few years (my daily, do-it-all driver).

I would also be in favor of DELVAC 5W-40 synthetic. I'm told this is popular with the pre-war ROLLS-ROYCE crowd in their 6's. (May be on BITOG, search).

I would also pose this question directly to SPECIALTY FORMULATIONS in conjunction with a used oil analysis. Internal clean-up, analysis and consistent product quality would be very decisive in my thinking.
 
diesel engine dino oils have kept this 240 running for at least 25 years and dino oil for almost 40 years
WHY CHANGE A GOOD THING?

Valvoline VSOT is a good thing for these flat tappet engine cams.
this short distance low yearly mileage is severe service, so you have it right, chance often.
can't remember if '65's had a PVC valve, but if it does change every couple years. Stuck PVC will kill this great engine.
Put some fogging oil down carb until she dies in fall, and fuel stabilizer in gas when parked for winter to keep the rings and valves from seizing. Old gummy broken down gas will ruin a good engine in no time, like putting sugar in the gas.
Just keep the kids from hotrodding and over revving this torquer six
She will last you and your grandsons another 40 years.
 
Why use syntheics and ask for trouble.Some here find it ok on a older car but there are risks in getting leaks.More than likely you will get leaks.Why take the risk.

If i came on here asking what to use in a 31 Ford there would be people here telling me to use Mobill 1 or some other syntheic oil.
 
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