I was reading though The Critic's thread about his AC problem and decided to check out my truck's A/C for leaks and check the A/C level if it needs topping off. As I pulled the low side cap off, I hear a hissing sound. The schrader valve is leaking. How do I fix it and will the leak wreak havoc on my A/C? I used one of those guages to check A/C level and it's in the OK level.
Small leak in A/C schrader valve.
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If you give the centre spindle a pull up by getting a small blade screwdriver and levering gently upwards (more a flick) it will often re-seal and stop leaking.
BTW, how can you check "A/C level" with a gauge ? The charge is weighed in.
BTW, how can you check "A/C level" with a gauge ? The charge is weighed in.
I have a similar tool. You can replace Shrader valves without losing a charge. Don't use it often, it is a buttsaver when you do need it though.
http://www.robinair.com/products/detail.php?id=2303
http://www.robinair.com/products/detail.php?id=2303
Originally Posted By: punisher
I have a similar tool. You can replace Shrader valves without losing a charge. Don't use it often, it is a buttsaver when you do need it though.
http://www.robinair.com/products/detail.php?id=2303
That tool wont work with 134A type hose connections, but would work nicely with R12 hose connections
I have a similar tool. You can replace Shrader valves without losing a charge. Don't use it often, it is a buttsaver when you do need it though.
http://www.robinair.com/products/detail.php?id=2303
That tool wont work with 134A type hose connections, but would work nicely with R12 hose connections
The schraeder valve is only there to allow hose connections without blowing the whole charge. It is not intended to be the main seal. The cap is the main seal. After 20 years in the business, I found that all systems missing the gasketed valve caps slowly leak.--All of them.
JHZR2
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Ive found that mine do not leak, however, when removing the gauge, there can be a small amount of liquid-phase coolant in the area of the valve. THe caps fit tight enough, and the molecules are large enough that they do not diffuse. Remove the cap, and the vaporized refrigerant will release, and then some.
what year/make of truck?
Originally Posted By: river_rat
The schraeder valve is only there to allow hose connections without blowing the whole charge. It is not intended to be the main seal. The cap is the main seal. After 20 years in the business, I found that all systems missing the gasketed valve caps slowly leak.--All of them.
I ended up having to replace the core on my Mom's Saturn as it was leaking and a new cap wouldnt fix it. It would still leak down until it would not even trip the pressure switch. This would take about 4-5 months. I didnt have a fancy tool, I just wore a welding glove and blew most of the charge before installing a new one.
The schraeder valve is only there to allow hose connections without blowing the whole charge. It is not intended to be the main seal. The cap is the main seal. After 20 years in the business, I found that all systems missing the gasketed valve caps slowly leak.--All of them.
I ended up having to replace the core on my Mom's Saturn as it was leaking and a new cap wouldnt fix it. It would still leak down until it would not even trip the pressure switch. This would take about 4-5 months. I didnt have a fancy tool, I just wore a welding glove and blew most of the charge before installing a new one.
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Originally Posted By: Onmo'Eegusee
Originally Posted By: river_rat
The schraeder valve is only there to allow hose connections without blowing the whole charge. It is not intended to be the main seal. The cap is the main seal. After 20 years in the business, I found that all systems missing the gasketed valve caps slowly leak.--All of them.
I ended up having to replace the core on my Mom's Saturn as it was leaking and a new cap wouldnt fix it. It would still leak down until it would not even trip the pressure switch. This would take about 4-5 months. I didnt have a fancy tool, I just wore a welding glove and blew most of the charge before installing a new one.
river rat is actually right the main purpose of the caps are for last line of defense for schrader valve/port leakage,a brand new one will start to leak again with some time,the pressures these systems see are high and these valves can't always hold it,the low side is not as critical as the high side but still important,been doing this along time and see it all the time
Originally Posted By: river_rat
The schraeder valve is only there to allow hose connections without blowing the whole charge. It is not intended to be the main seal. The cap is the main seal. After 20 years in the business, I found that all systems missing the gasketed valve caps slowly leak.--All of them.
I ended up having to replace the core on my Mom's Saturn as it was leaking and a new cap wouldnt fix it. It would still leak down until it would not even trip the pressure switch. This would take about 4-5 months. I didnt have a fancy tool, I just wore a welding glove and blew most of the charge before installing a new one.
river rat is actually right the main purpose of the caps are for last line of defense for schrader valve/port leakage,a brand new one will start to leak again with some time,the pressures these systems see are high and these valves can't always hold it,the low side is not as critical as the high side but still important,been doing this along time and see it all the time
I was not saying he was wrong just that it does not always seem to work.
Originally Posted By: duaneb9729
Originally Posted By: punisher
I have a similar tool. You can replace Shrader valves without losing a charge. Don't use it often, it is a buttsaver when you do need it though.
http://www.robinair.com/products/detail.php?id=2303
That tool wont work with 134A type hose connections, but would work nicely with R12 hose connections
Works fine on any domestic/commercial refrigeration or air conditioning system (except R410A) that has shraeder valves fitted, and where I could have used it a few times.
Originally Posted By: punisher
I have a similar tool. You can replace Shrader valves without losing a charge. Don't use it often, it is a buttsaver when you do need it though.
http://www.robinair.com/products/detail.php?id=2303
That tool wont work with 134A type hose connections, but would work nicely with R12 hose connections
Works fine on any domestic/commercial refrigeration or air conditioning system (except R410A) that has shraeder valves fitted, and where I could have used it a few times.
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