quote:
Originally posted by Triple_Se7en:
Listen to Too Slick!
Another option is not spending all that money for 5-6 quarts of Red Line & get your moly/boron/calcium/phosphorous-rich ingredients from a bottle of Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment ($3.99). Use the extra savings on a quality oil filter.
The S2K Amsoil is all you need for extended drain service. Another fine option is Mobil-1 EP.
TooSlick is one of the most well informed and fair minded individuals on any forum he's active in.
He's really the only reason that I came to see that Amsoil has some excellent products.
As far as Redline being expensive, I think its a bargain!
I've never had any sign of engine problems using Redline and I drive the cars hard in a demanding environment. I also have many family members driving many cars spread out over the USA, so UPA's weren't convenient and I wanted a large measure of protection.
I think the Redline helped me manage all these cars and drivers, avoid problems, and saved me a lot of money.
Long OCI, low evaporative loss, tolerance for severe driving styles and conditions, without the cost and logistical problems of UOA's worked for me.
[ And yes, I think I could have done this with Amsoil, or Mobil 1 ]
In 2005, the average OTC oils are much better [ putting aside SM concerns]. I also think the engines are much better.]
I think that I have more choices in oils that will work well.
Back when I started using Redline it was clearly better for my driving needs than Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec.
I wanted to try longer OCI's and drive hard. I felt the only other option was heavier oils and shorter intervals.
I didn't have TooSlick to advise me on the right Amsoil products.
I just had MLM hacks telling me to run Amsoil for 25,000 miles, and I had no confidence in their sales pitch.
With better oils and BITOG, I'm sure I could run a number of different brand oils at their ideal OCI for a given car, and between VSOT, LC20, FP60, Auto-RX, and UOA's there's no doubt that I would get good results.
And if you look at some of the cars I have you'll see I use more than 1 product.
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I use Mobil 1 0W-20 at 7K OCI in our 2004 Honda Element since I wanted the best mpg and it tested well.
When my stash of 0W-20 runs out...maybe Redline 5W-20, Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 if it tests well, or Mobil 1 5W-20. But not Amsoil 5W-20.
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I ran Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 in our two 2005 Subaru Outbacks at 10K OCI with a 5K filter change and oil top up.
I might try Amsoil S2K 0W-30 or S3K 5W-30, or Redline 5W-30, but I'm open to suggestions on these cars.
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I run Valvoline 15W-40 in the 2005 Silverado 2500HD Duramax at 2000 mile OCI, since it is free at the dealership and the truck had some issues with ECM and turbo that took lots of visits to the dealer.
Now, I think I'll switch to Delo 400 15W-40 at 3K OCI because of warranty concerns...but I'll consider Amsoil or Redline 15W-40 and use 80% on the oil monitoring system for OCI.
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In our highly modified 200 hp Golf TDI my business partner runs Amsoil European formula 5W-40 at 10K OCI and seems happy with it.
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In my 1986 BMW 325es with 400K, I run Redline 10W-40 at 7K OCI and don't plan to change.
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In our 1996 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L I run Mobil 5000 5W-30 at 3K OCI.
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In our 1996 Subaru Legacy AWD wagon I use Mobil 1 10W-30 at 5K OCI.
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In our 1996 Acura Integra I run Havoline 5W-30 at 3K OCI.
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In our 1990 Chevy 1500 plow truck I am running Quaker State 10W-40 4x4 Synthetic Blend at 2K OCI.
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In our 1984 Mercedes 300D, Delo 400 at 4K OCI.
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All these vehicles have Redline gear lubes, or Factory spec ATF with Lubegard. The Allison Series 1000 transmission will probably get Castrol Transynd, since other BITOG members have brought this fluid to my attention.
I am now on a tear with LC20/FP60/VSOT and Auto-RX.
Before this new attitude towards additives I only used Techron or Redline SL1, and Lubegard.
