Schaeffer 7000 20w50, 2008 H-D 1200R 4307 miles

[a4tdi]

Here is my first UOA on this bike. I know these engines throw loads of copper when new, but yowza! Silicon is high too. Air filtration is stock and filter was not removed during the sampling period. Oil filter used was a Wix/NAPA Gold #1348. Oil is Schaeffer's 20w50 racing oil.
Motorcycle is a 2008 H-D Sportster 1200R
Miles at time of sample: 5,588
Miles on oil at time of sample: 4,307
Lab used: Predictive Maintenance Services

Iron 11
Chromium 0
Lead 5
Copper 92
Tin 10
Aluminum 24
Nickel 1
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Vanadium 0
Silicon 35
Boron 38
Potassium 6
Magnesium 120
Calcium 1957
Phosphorus 1376
Zinc 1503
Molybdenum 281
Barium 1
Visc @ 100c 19.1
TBN 2.65
Fuel AAA
Glycol NHN
Soot 0
Oxidation 13
Nitration 7.7

Lab's remarks:
"Copper high indicating possible bearing or thrust wear.
Copper may also be from cooler.
Dirt indicated by high aluminum and silicon levels. (alumina and silica)
Change oil and filters (if not already done)
Resample at normal interval".

 

[sunruh]

ug...never mind the tin, lead and iron.

is that schaeffers really intended as a road oil?
just curious.
the add pack looks pretty stout as is the visc. nice!

normally i dont comment on the '40s tech, but you might want to do some shorter oci's to flush the junk out sooner. the tbn seems kind of low compartively.

 

[Steve S]

yep,a new engine you wasted the $20.00. Schaeffers oils are impressive.

 

[whitesands]

Probably just a result from being a new engine and the long OCI and the ppms accumulate...Another short OCI like 2000 miles or so then go back to your normal interval on your next one and do another UOA...It wouldn't be surprising if your next UOA would show a sharp decrease in wear metals...

 

[salesrep]

What white sands said.

 

[a4tdi]

Thanks for all of the inputs. I figured that after 5k, most of the initial wear would have taken place. The only thing that caused me some alarm in this UOA is that copper number. Taking your advice, I'm going to change the oil this weekend and refill with the 15w40 Schaeffer 7000 HDEO that I'm using for the winter months. This sample will have about 2k on it and I will post the analysis when available.

 

[EagleFTE]

I think the "book" says to change fluids at 1k then go to 5k OCIs but a lot of people ignore that and keep initial OCIs very short. These engines do "break in" unlike a modern liquid cooled car. It is very common for owners of new or new build engines to keep the initial change under 500, then run 1000, then start migrating up to your personal choice of OCI. Since these ar ususally purchases intended for "til death do us part" some are even more anal than that. All that said I would run a shorter OCI for a couple and see what happens. I bet it settles out to reasonable numbers.

 

[a4tdi]

You are correct. I did the first change at just over 1k, and then this one (which is actually 700 miles early) to get on the 5k OCI. Perhaps H-D's recommendation isn't the best with a brand-new engine since most owners will never do a UOA anyway.

 

[EagleFTE]

Here is my 2 cents for what it is worth. Despite what the book says I would run a dino only to 2k to 2.5k. And if I thought it got stressed dump it and reload. I just read a post where a guy said he pegged his guage at 300 F in traffic in Vegas and envoked the rear cylinder shut down. Time to dump that oil for sure. I would run a top shelf syns like Amsoil MCV, M1 Vtwin, or Red Line to 5k but dump it earlier if I feel compelled. Bragging about long OCIs on air cooled Vtwins is not a priority. These motors can be very hard on oil. The Schaeffer should be fine choice. The additive package looks very stout but I have never used it. Just keep in mind that these engines will exceed 250 F routinely in warm environments and chose accordingly. The Wix has the proper flow and bypass for this engine if you are using their recommended filter but I wish they had something better than a paper media. They are supposed to come out with a new syn media but not sure if it has hit the shelf yet.

 

[EagleFTE]

Just checked. Wix is listing that filter as 19 micron nominal, Beta Ratio 2/20=21/37, paper media. Not all that impressive but just ok for a Evo sporty. I would not use it in twin cam. At least it has proper flow and bypass. Something Wix is doing good at. Bring on the syn media with better filtration please!!!!!

 

[a4tdi]

I changed out the oil today and put in a fresh batch of Schaeffer #700 15w40 HDEO. The sample has 2005 miles on it and I will get it off to the lab in the next couple of days. UOA to follow.

 

[jkhawaii]

looks just like the wear numbers I got on my Buell XB12s on the first two UOA's on the third UOA the numbers esp on the copper improved.

 

[moosestang]

Originally Posted By: EagleFTE
Here is my 2 cents for what it is worth. Despite what the book says I would run a dino only to 2k to 2.5k. And if I thought it got stressed dump it and reload. I just read a post where a guy said he pegged his guage at 300 F in traffic in Vegas and envoked the rear cylinder shut down. Time to dump that oil for sure. I would run a top shelf syns like Amsoil MCV, M1 Vtwin, or Red Line to 5k but dump it earlier if I feel compelled. Bragging about long OCIs on air cooled Vtwins is not a priority. These motors can be very hard on oil. The Schaeffer should be fine choice. The additive package looks very stout but I have never used it. Just keep in mind that these engines will exceed 250 F routinely in warm environments and chose accordingly. The Wix has the proper flow and bypass for this engine if you are using their recommended filter but I wish they had something better than a paper media. They are supposed to come out with a new syn media but not sure if it has hit the shelf yet.


My buell xb9 routinely runs at 180*+ celcius! [censored], my cold start inrichment doesn't shut off till 130*. 300F and the rear cylinder shuts down? Maybe my software is actually displaying Fahrenheit instead of Celcius.