Cadillac Catera, burns oil, reccomendations?

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I have a 2001 Cadillac Catera that just ticked over to 127k miles. I've had the car for 6 months now and have put about 9k miles on it in that time. It has the GM L81 3.0 V6 also found in various Saab and Saturn models and the 03-04 CTS has a 3.2L variant. The first oil change I did was somewhat scary. I don't think the filter had been changed in ages and the oil was black. I bought the car at a repo auction for cheap and only had 30 seconds to look it over before buying. It has treated me well, but one problem I can't seem to get rid of is the oil burning. The car doesn't leak more than one drop per week. There is a nice puff of blue smoke to remind me every morning. I "change" the 6qts of oil every 3k miles, but in that time I add roughly 3qts to keep it topped up. The car has plenty of power, doesn't hesitate, foul plugs, or have any real running issues I would normally associate with burning oil. It just irritates me that I need what turns out to be 9 quarts of oil over every OCI.

Does anyone have any recommendations? I read something about Auto-Rx but I'm not sure what do do. So far I have gotten the consumption down, from eating about 4qts to "only" 3, by switching to a High Mileage oil.
 
So a qt. per 1k miles, yeah that's a lot. I think the morning blue puff is a sign of valve stem seal leakage. Has the use been the same, or is going up? You can use the miracle drug ARX, a metal cleaner it seems, but thats better on the ring pack I think don't see it much use on a worn valve seal. You should compression/leak down test it and see better where problem is. If rings can clean at some risk, may get better and may get worse. Hopefully is was cheap enough to allow for some reserve to buy make up oil.
 
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What oil brand and weight are you using? Switching to a heavier, high milage oil might reduce the oil burning.
 
You need to put oil burning on the back burner for a second...

I have a 2005 Saturn L300 and had a 2000 LS, both with the same 3.0l engine (albeit some intake changes).

The engine is an intereference engine and is VERY finicky with timing belts. The timing belt must be changed around 100,000 times or you are on borrowed time. At that time, the water pump and tensioners are changed.

I would take the timing belt cover over and see if that belt has ever been replaced. If not, that'd be my priority.

Other than that, we have logged over 130,000 miles on the 3.0l engine. Aside from oil coolers, regular maintenace (run valvoline syn in ours), its a great engine. Great mpg's and lots of power.
 
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You might consider using a HDEO in this engine. Rotella T synthetic 5W40 is a good choice, as it is also certified for gas engines. HDEO's have a proven record on this board of reducing oil consumption.
 
Wow, thanks for all the responses.

Originally Posted By: jldcol
So a qt. per 1k miles, yeah that's a lot. I think the morning blue puff is a sign of valve stem seal leakage. Has the use been the same, or is going up? You can use the miracle drug ARX, a metal cleaner it seems, but thats better on the ring pack I think don't see it much use on a worn valve seal. You should compression/leak down test it and see better where problem is. If rings can clean at some risk, may get better and may get worse. Hopefully is was cheap enough to allow for some reserve to buy make up oil.


Initially I had no idea it was drinking oil like crazy. I picked up the car for $1400 and knew it needed some minor cleaning and tune up. Changed the oil and filter, used Walmart Supertech full synthetic 10w-30, and a WIX filter element. Within 3 weeks the low oil level indicator came on and I checked, sure enough it was about 1qt low, just under the min level on the dipstick. During the first 3k miles it needed 4 quarts added to it. At this point, with my next change coming up, I'm going to be at just over 2.5 quarts added. I have been using Castrol GTX High Mileage since this last change. So far it seems the oil consumption is slowing down a bit.

Originally Posted By: toytundranator

What oil brand and weight are you using? Switching to a heavier, high milage oil might reduce the oil burning.


I used the Castrol GTX High Mileage 10w-30 this last interval and it does seem to be helping with reducing the oil burning. It also may be that I am a pretty enthusiastic driver and at least once a day I open it up and blow that carbon buildup outta there, and I make sure to change the oil regularly.

Originally Posted By: [email protected]
You need to put oil burning on the back burner for a second...

I have a 2005 Saturn L300 and had a 2000 LS, both with the same 3.0l engine (albeit some intake changes).

The engine is an interference engine and is VERY finicky with timing belts. The timing belt must be changed around 100,000 times or you are on borrowed time. At that time, the water pump and tensioners are changed.

I would take the timing belt cover over and see if that belt has ever been replaced. If not, that'd be my priority.

Other than that, we have logged over 130,000 miles on the 3.0l engine. Aside from oil coolers, regular maintenace (run valvoline syn in ours), its a great engine. Great mpg's and lots of power.


Thank you for the advice, I have been on a Catera forum on and off for a few months and learned about the timing belt issues that plagued the 97-98 models which gave the Catera such a bad reputation. From what I had heard though was that the change interval had been reduced to 40k miles and that the original interval was 60k, 100k was madness, am I wrong here? It could also have something to do with the belt routing on the earlier models, they often suggest replacing the bracket that the idler pulleys attach to... I have no idea when mine was done last, if at all, and I have an appointment this week to have my mechanic change the belt, pulleys, water pump, etc.

Originally Posted By: OMCWankel

You might consider using a HDEO in this engine. Rotella T synthetic 5W40 is a good choice, as it is also certified for gas engines. HDEO's have a proven record on this board of reducing oil consumption.

What may I ask is an HDEO ?

Originally Posted By: tig1
Caddy's seam to have an oil burning problem.
http://caddyedge.com/CadForums/viewtopic.php?t=492

Thanks for the link, they seemed to be talking mostly about the Northstar engine, which is of a different design and construction.
 
Just ordered up some Auto-Rx, we'll see what happens. I'll take some pics down in the oil filler for some before and after just for fun.
 
Just to answer a previous question, an HDEO(heavy duty engine oil) is a "fleet" oil, commonly used in mixed gas/diesel fleets.

Common HDEOs are Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo, Mobil Delvac, Valvoline Premium Blue, etc.

You can use the HDEOs with the A-rx youve bought. Just follow the directions on the A-rx bottle, and hopefully it will help your problem.
 
I'd up the weight of the HM oil to a 10W-40 or even 20W-50 in the summer. I'd also try MaxLife as some have claimed their burners used less of it than Castrol HM...

And you can also use conventional HDEO (diesel rated oil) like Rotella or Chevron in the 15W-40 weight...
 
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Originally Posted By: L33tA2
Just ordered up some Auto-Rx, we'll see what happens. I'll take some pics down in the oil filler for some before and after just for fun.

Chances are, Auto-RX isn't going to help with the oil consumption. It may clean up the engine, but it won't do much to address the oil consumption.

You're best bet is to have the problem properly diagnosed and repaired. As the others have mentioned, you may need new valve stem seals. Using an additive to correct a mechanical problem has never worked for me, personally.
 
Run the ARX per directions and watch your oil filter because it may fill up with gunk quickly. Do the rinse then try Valvoline Max-Life Syn blend (Walmart) for 2 changes and see if it slows the consumption.
 
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
I'd up the weight of the HM oil to a 10W-40 or even 20W-50 in the summer. I'd also try MaxLife as some have claimed their burners used less of it than Castrol HM...

And you can also use conventional HDEO (diesel rated oil) like Rotella or Chevron in the 15W-40 weight...


+1
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
As the others have mentioned, you may need new valve stem seals. Using an additive to correct a mechanical problem has never worked for me, personally.


I realize you're probably right. The only miracle product I've ever used that worked was Seafoam through the vac line on a neglected 1991 VW Golf, restored compression to even levels 185+ on all 4 cyls.
I purchased the ARX mainly because of boredom and I figured it might help a little bit, but I realize its not going to fix leaking valve stem seals. The inside of the oil filter housing has lots of varnish and gunky buildup.
Will Mobil Clean 5000 be okay to use with the ARX ? I recently picked up several 5qt jugs from Walmart and would like to just use what I have.
 
make sure timing belt is changed if it is an interference engine. I would run 2 complete clean/rinse cycles of ARX. the blue start-up smoke is leaky valve stem seals....the ARX could help with that and ring packs --which are probably clogged/sticking if te oil was black
 
Any updates on this, I drive a 2001 Catera Sport now with 141k and its also been having the blue smoke issues particularly after I switched to synthetics...

Been thinking about the Rotella Oils and I may try that on my next oil change interval.
 
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