Harley Twin-Cam owners...

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At what mileage do you consider a Twin-Cam engine to be broken in? I've checked the various H-D websites and this seems to be a subject where there is little agreement. FWIW, my 2009 Road King now has 1700+ miles on it. I ran the factory fill 20w50 for the first 500 miles and then switched to Delvac 1300 15w40. The engine has run noticeably quiter and smoother on the Delvac, but that may be more as a result of break-in than anything else. Mileage has increased from 38 to 45 mpg too.
Thanks!
 
The factory schedule is 1000 miles. But, I noticed my engine loosening up and smoothing out all the way to 2500 (06 TC88)

Did you do the 1000 mile service?
 
I'm approaching 3000 miles on my 09 FXDC. It was around 2500 miles when the engine seemed to settle down and smooth out.

If this bike is anything like my Sportster, that "smoothing out" will continue until about 5000 miles. I think at that point all the internals of the transmission, primary, and engine have gotten to know each other and you can consider everything fully broken in.
 
Originally Posted By: hd2002
Wear metals in my 08 Ultra didn't start leveling out until the 13,000 mile UOA.


I have heard 10,000 from several friends as well. If taken care of a TC engine should go about 125k until you need to really get into it. (except for cam tensioner shoes)
 
My 88b seemed to settle down and find its rhythm at around 10000-12000 miles. I'm now at 24000 and it runs great but I'm not putting many miles on it any more since I got the bimmer.
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Interesting. I figured one would be completely broken-in by say 5k or so. Now I'm wondering if I should keep the dino oil in a little longer to aid break-in? BTW, the 1000 mile service was done by the dealership.
 
I switched over to synthetic at about 3,000 miles.
Switching to synthetic is not going to hinder your break-in period, if that is what your concerned about.
 
I have a 2007 H-D Twin Cam.

Bought it with 1400 miles last year, the 1000 mile service was done at 850 with H-D's Syn put in. I put in Amsoil in at 1700 & changed it at 6500.

I put 6000 miles on it last year.

It feels like it has broke in around 5000 - 6000 miles.

You would also be wise to put the Race Tuner in it as they run very hot, that will stop it from running so lean and get your air/fuel ratio to 12.8:1.
 
'07 Ultra here.

Changed to AMSOIL MCV 20W-50 at 660 miles and never looked back.

At 1200 miles, I had Vance and Hines True Duals, Harley Race Tuner and Screamin' Eagle Air Filter. Like driving 2 different bikes.

Switched out air filter element to the AMSOIL Element at just over 10K.

Next oil change was at 10,207 to AMSOIL TRO 20W-50 Racing oil. Changed back to MCV at 14,226 as I was going on a road trip. Changed oil again at 24,300 and oil analysis sent in again.
 
Originally Posted By: bigdreama
Oh, and I forgot to mention that I have been using synthetic since the 1000 mile service.
I broke my bike in on Syn3 (they should just call it Grp3) and never had an issue. But some builders say it extends the break-in period slightly with syn oil. I would not go back to dino. All my bikes get syn at 100 miles. Plus all the HD CVO bikes come with syn 3 as factory fill. S&S engines come with Mobil1Vtwin 20w50.
 
Originally Posted By: OilDoc
'07 Ultra here.

Changed to AMSOIL MCV 20W-50 at 660 miles and never looked back.

At 1200 miles, I had Vance and Hines True Duals, Harley Race Tuner and Screamin' Eagle Air Filter. Like driving 2 different bikes.

Switched out air filter element to the AMSOIL Element at just over 10K.

Next oil change was at 10,207 to AMSOIL TRO 20W-50 Racing oil. Changed back to MCV at 14,226 as I was going on a road trip. Changed oil again at 24,300 and oil analysis sent in again.


Could you post your UOA's please.
 
Originally Posted By: bigdreama
My 88b seemed to settle down and find its rhythm at around 10000-12000 miles. I'm now at 24000 and it runs great but I'm not putting many miles on it any more since I got the bimmer.
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I agree, my Softail Duece (88b) has 13,500miles and I think it is broken in now. Noticed real power and MPG improvements around 8,000 miles but have leveled off now. I use Redline V-Twin oil now and used M1 V-Twin before that.
 
Hi GMBoy,
which Redline is that, 20w-50 or 20w-60?
Which do you prefer, Redline or Mobil 1 V-twin ?
 
I am a motorcycle engineer, (sorry I can not tell you which one)
that said, did you know the Twin-Cam engine is a "FULL ROLLER ENGINE?" the crank, rods, cams, all ride on bearings, & do not require break-in, just the piston to cylinder bore, so run her SEMI HARD for the the first 500mi, with (lots of engine RPM variation) for a good ring seal, then you can flog her! REALLY!with only about 80 RWHP the engine is overbuilt so you will not hurt her. Have FUN!
 
Here's the routine thus far- the first 500 miles on factory-fill, then changed to Delvac 1300, ran 1000 miles and changed oil and filter. Now on the second fill of Delvac 1300 with 2500 total miles coming up. At that time, I have M1 V-Twin ready to go in just in time for warmer weather.
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Mileage has increased from 38 to a solid 45+ mpg, and the engine is much smoother and quieter.
 
Originally Posted By: RWEST
Quote:
sorry I can not tell you which one
54.gif



I am not allowed to disclose my employer on here either. It violates my non-disclosure employment agreement.
 
Originally Posted By: itsalex
I am a motorcycle engineer, (sorry I can not tell you which one)
that said, did you know the Twin-Cam engine is a "FULL ROLLER ENGINE?" the crank, rods, cams, all ride on bearings, & do not require break-in, just the piston to cylinder bore, so run her SEMI HARD for the the first 500mi, with (lots of engine RPM variation) for a good ring seal, then you can flog her! REALLY!with only about 80 RWHP the engine is overbuilt so you will not hurt her. Have FUN!


80 rear wheel horse power? Since when? The 1450cc twin cam engine is closer to 59 rwhp on a dyno. A 40 mm air intake be it carbureted or fuel injected can only provide so much flow and flow is absolutely necessary to make power.
 
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