Best crankcase cleaner?

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I tried the kerosene cleaning yesterday. Drained oil, which was semi black. Replaced with 1/2 jug ATF, and 1 quart kerosene. I sat in the car and ran it for 8 minutes, idling at 1200 to keep the
oil pressure up and running. then drained it, it came out fairly black. then i poured in the remaining 1/2 jug ATF, with 1 quart of
SL 10w30 from a jug. Ran that for 5 minutes, then drained well. I was kind of black, but not really dirty, I would say more clean than dirty.
Then I refilled with the remaining 10w30 in the jug, and topped up with 5w20. Result: not a single bit of difference noticed when running the engine. Engine ran perfectly well before, still runs perfectly well. This is the Mitsubishi 1.5l.
Conclusion, don't bother with engine cleaners. Probably something gets cleaned out, but there is absolutely no change in the engine performance, and you risk excessive wear from the
thin oil/ very thin oil mix. As long as the engine oil is changed at proper intervals, the engine should be self cleaning, and doesn't need anything more - it can even be harmful, but luckily i seemed to have gotten away with it.

I considered going the full Monty, and doing the diesel trick, where you fill engine to brim with diesel, let sit overnight, crank engine over a few times, then drain. However the thought of diesel fuel rocketing out of the cylinders across the road, dissuaded me.
 
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Originally Posted By: scoobie
I tried the kerosene cleaning yesterday. Drained oil, which was semi black. Replaced with 1/2 jug ATF, and 1 quart kerosene. I sat in the car and ran it for 8 minutes, idling at 1200 to keep the
oil pressure up and running. then drained it, it came out fairly black. then i poured in the remaining 1/2 jug ATF, with 1 quart of
SL 10w30 from a jug. Ran that for 5 minutes, then drained well. I was kind of black, but not really dirty, I would say more clean than dirty.
Then I refilled with the remaining 10w30 in the jug, and topped up with 5w20. Result: not a single bit of difference noticed when running the engine. Engine ran perfectly well before, still runs perfectly well. This is the Mitsubishi 1.5l.
Conclusion, don't bother with engine cleaners. Probably something gets cleaned out, but there is absolutely no change in the engine performance, and you risk excessive wear from the
thin oil/ very thin oil mix. As long as the engine oil is changed at proper intervals, the engine should be self cleaning, and doesn't need anything more - it can even be harmful, but luckily i seemed to have gotten away with it.

I considered going the full Monty, and doing the diesel trick, where you fill engine to brim with diesel, let sit overnight, crank engine over a few times, then drain. However the thought of diesel fuel rocketing out of the cylinders across the road, dissuaded me.


Never tried this myself, but have tried other things that don't work. Only thing that has worked for me and I currently use is ARX.
 
Has anyone else ever used "Eagle One" detergent based flush? I've used it several years ago and didn't notice a huge difference with the oil coming out blackened or anything. But it claims to work using detergents instead of solvents...


I can't find anything on it on their site as they only seem to have exterior cleaning products now...
 
Originally Posted By: scoobie
I tried the kerosene cleaning yesterday. Drained oil, which was semi black. Replaced with 1/2 jug ATF, and 1 quart kerosene. I sat in the car and ran it for 8 minutes, idling at 1200 to keep the
oil pressure up and running. then drained it, it came out fairly black. then i poured in the remaining 1/2 jug ATF, with 1 quart of
SL 10w30 from a jug. Ran that for 5 minutes, then drained well. I was kind of black, but not really dirty, I would say more clean than dirty.
Then I refilled with the remaining 10w30 in the jug, and topped up with 5w20. Result: not a single bit of difference noticed when running the engine. Engine ran perfectly well before, still runs perfectly well. This is the Mitsubishi 1.5l.
Conclusion, don't bother with engine cleaners. Probably something gets cleaned out, but there is absolutely no change in the engine performance, and you risk excessive wear from the
thin oil/ very thin oil mix. As long as the engine oil is changed at proper intervals, the engine should be self cleaning, and doesn't need anything more - it can even be harmful, but luckily i seemed to have gotten away with it.

I considered going the full Monty, and doing the diesel trick, where you fill engine to brim with diesel, let sit overnight, crank engine over a few times, then drain. However the thought of diesel fuel rocketing out of the cylinders across the road, dissuaded me.


NO offense, scoobie, but how do you know there was anything to clean to begin with?
 
Engine flushes such as the Amsoil, Gunk or K&W can only remove some of the easier to clean, softer deposits or semi-solid sludge with a 5 to 30 minute run. Yes you should run it at about 1500-2000 rpms to do any cleaning at all. No, you should not really drive it or load it up with that mix in there which compromises the oil film that protects wear surfaces. Any long-term exposure of the engine rotational seals to these flushing chemicals would be unadviseable and might cause them to deteriorate. Follow directions. And don't use a flush in an excessivley dirty or a sludged engine unless you plan to immediately drop the pan for cleaning and replacement of the pickup screen tube afterwards.

If you have time to do it right and want a much more complete and safer cleaning, get the Auto-Rx and go at it!
There again, follow the directions for your application.
 
ARX is the only product that has shown the benefits of cleaning time and time again. UOA's, before and after compression tests, mileage gains, and top end pictures, before and after.
 
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