valvoline vs havoline

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Hi to all, this is my first post but i've been searching info on this forum for a couple of days now. I have a 2000 nissan maxima 3.0 that I recently bought. It has 69000 miles on it and when it reaches 70000 I was going to change the oil. I was planning on using a synthetic and changing the oil and filter every 5000 miles. I originally planned to use valvoline synpower 10w30 and a purolator premium plus filter. However, through my research i've come across a ton of info that makes me second guess any decision. All I am now is CONFUSED
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. I am thinking about havoline synthetic now, but I can't find much info on it. I think I can play it safe by switching to mobil 1, but i'm hesitant because of the chance of oil leaks. Please help me make a wise decision, i'll keep searching on this forum, but if anybody and steer me in the right direction I would appreciate it,

Thanks
 
You won't have any oil leaks with Mobil 1. The Havoline Synthetic is really not a "True" Synthetic although it has given pretty good results. If you want to go with a full synthetic..Mobil 1 may be your bewst choice. The Mobil 7500 stuff might be a good choice for you.
 
Havoline Synthetic is a pretty decent Group III oil and will easily last for 8000 miles. I picked up 42 quarts for $1 per quart at AutoZone a while back.

I agree with Al, Mobil 7500 is a better choice for less $$$$.

[ June 25, 2005, 05:05 PM: Message edited by: LT4 Vette ]
 
I don't like Valvoline. They started much of the marketing crap with "high mileage" oil etc. I won't be giving money to that type of company.
 
Thanks for the replys, i'm hearing good things about M1, I might try it out. Should I go with M1 filter also? Or, can I save some money by buying a different brand that has the same quality?

Another question, will it be safe to change after 5000 miles after first switching to M1, or should I do it earlier?

Keep em comin' this is good feedback
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No need to use a Mobil 1 oil filter when you use Mobil 1 oil. I have gone 11,500 miles with 10w30 Mobil 1 oil & Purolator oil filter in my wife's 1998 Civic EX.
 
Why the hard on for Valvoline and "marketing"? Most high mileage oils do have extra cleaning and seal conditioners, as well as being a tad "thicker". What is wrong with that or marketing a oil that way? It seems for many these oils are beneficial.

If you are talking extra mileage between oil changes, most Americans have been conditioned on 3,000 or so OCI's. Any company extending that by bringing an oil that can do the job for 5,000 plus miles,and marketing it as such is A-OK by me.

We ***** and moan about oil, but you can still buy a quart of good oil for under $1.00 on sale, under .50 with rebates. When one realistically considers the vast superiority of oil compared to not that many years ago, and figure what we are paying for it in today's dollars versus dollars from ten years ago..the oil companies with all their flaws are doing a decent job at bringing a good product to market at a fair price.

With all the deals I have received from free oil, rebates etc. I say, keep bringing that "marketing" on!
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Back on topic.
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I have used all the oils you have asked about. You will be happy with anyone of them that you choose.
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Much like changing your dog's food to a different brand slowly - so his system better greets the new ingredients, I choose to make that "dino to synthetic" transition a little more slowly too.

Why not a 50-50 mix of any brand you choose for your first OCI.... also good for 5K. If it's Castrol or whatever, then use 2 quarts of Castrol GTX and 2 quarts of Castrol Syntec of the same weight. See how your vehicle responds. If engine sound and oil use are to your satisfactory afterwards, then go the next step with full synthetic next time around.

By-the-way.... a few scientists here are looking for purchasers of Pennzoil Platinum.... a new synthetic from Pennzoil.... priced like the rest of the name-brands. So buy Pennzoil please & send in your used oil sample for an analysis.
 
I changed over to M1 in my 5.7 liter Camero at 28k and the intake started leaking like a strainer. The leak was so big it ruined my clutch disk so I not only got to repair the intake but the clutch (which was new)as well. Still on M1 and no more leaks but consider this a cautionary tale.
 
The way I see high mileage oils is that it gives us an oil that is not dominated by CAFE, although in some cases companies have bowed to the phosphorus limits so they can sell the HM to new car owners.
 
I've been looking for the right message thread to post my comments in/on, so here goes:

One of my vehicles is a Chevy K1500 pickup with the 4.3L V6 engine that just crossed over to 128K+ "hard" miles today. A few months ago when Wal-????(you know the rest....) was clearancing out all of their Valvoline SynPower and Durablend stock, I bought a large stash of SynPower for $1.50/quart and Durablend for $1.00/quart.

OK to make a long story short, 2400 miles ago I did an oil change on this truck using SynPower 10W30. Honest to God, the engine hasn't run this smooth in a long, long time! My wife drove it recently, and afterwords she wanted to know what I had done ($$$spent, really) to make my old truck run so well; I don't think she really believed me when I told her.....

Here's what I have observed so far using SynPower 10W30 in this truck:

1) Zero oil comsumption (not so with MANY other oils that I've tried/used)

2) Better oil pressure above 1000 rpm and through the entire engine operating range that any xW30 oil that I have tried previously, including M1, Amsoil, Redline, etc.

3) No start-up valve train noise and other undesirable sounds during heavy acceleration.

I've recently "bought" a large supply of flame-suits that I can wear to protect me from all the comments that I now expect from most regular posters on the forum, except for TallPaul of course.
 
according to this "motor oil bible" I found online, valvoline synpower scores more points than M1. What gives? Why do some say valvoline synpower is so bad. According to this report it scores higher than M1. You can see where i'm getting confused.

I have to go on a trip, i'll be back thursday. Keep the replies coming, this is great stuff

Thanks
 
Hey kdcdq

Curiosity kills cats .... doesn't it??...lol

Well... everyone here is dying to know what oil you used prior to the Valvoline Synpower?

Alot of us have the 4.3 engine. What oil made your engine run rough?
 
quote:

A few months ago when Wal-????(you know the rest....) was clearancing out all of their Valvoline SynPower and Durablend stock, I bought a large stash of SynPower for $1.50/quart and Durablend for $1.00/quart.

Nice score, kdcdq!

And take off the flame suit, as Valvoline Synpower is a premium oil with Grp III base stocks & a quality additive package.

Always glad to find a Bitog member who is happy with the performance of a particular oil in their ride!
 
2000pwtrse, welcome to BITOG!!!

If you had to choose a Syn, I would go M1 or Valvoline MaxLife SYN.

The ValMaxLifeSyn meets a ton of Euro Long LIfe Specs from MB, BMW, and VW, and multiple ACEA specs.

If dino is choice, MoCraft 5-30 SynBlend or MaxLifeDino.

Both under $10/5 qt jug, and great oil.

I have used all of the above oils will great results.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Islandvic:
If dino is choice, MoCraft 5-30 SynBlend or MaxLifeDino.

The Maxlife dino is a great choice because the MSDS shows about 15% PAO in it and you get the comfort of the spec sheet showing about 300 ppm moly which I assume nicely makes up for the lower SM levels of zddp.
 
geese, if you're mad at how companies market products, you better refrain from buying just about anything! Castrol gets reemed repeadetly here, but GC is the holy grail. Hmmmmmmmm
 
hey, thanks for all the replys. After all this debate i've decided to go with Mobil 1 10w30, and probably the M1 filters. I don't mean to start another debate but is there a cheaper oil filter out there that does as good a job as M1?

Thanks again, this is a great site
 
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