Tire rotation every 1000 miles

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Originally Posted By: uzun
Frankly, I am not interested in switching to all-season tires at this time.


Neither would I be interested in doing that.

I reckon edge wear on the front is more of a problem than wear across the tire? That's how it's on my car, and it's simply due to lead foot disease and high curve speeds. I'd suggest non-unidirectional tires that can be rotated criss-cross to achieve similarly worn tires all around.

Alternatively, run the tires until the front tires wear out. Then mount the two rear tires on the front and put two new tires on the rear. And so forth.
 
Originally Posted By: jldcol
With running shoes alternating use of 2 pairs can last 3x as long, so occasional non use of one set may well help.


What's the theory behind that?
 
Originally Posted By: rpn453
Originally Posted By: jldcol
With running shoes alternating use of 2 pairs can last 3x as long, so occasional non use of one set may well help.


What's the theory behind that?


If you wear the same pair of shoes all the time, the insoles never get a chance to dry out. If you alternate wearing two or more pairs of shoes, you give theose shoes a chance to dry out, which retards the breaking down process of not only the insoles but also of the rest of the shoes from the inside out.

I think I have now figured out why Americans have a disproportionate high foot and toenail fungus infection rate (I'm sorry, but it's true!): they wear the same stinky clodhoppers all the time. I had been wondering about that. Funny, I should find a clue in a tire thread!

Anyway, I fail to see how the analogy between shoes and tires applies.
 
Originally Posted By: CapriRacer


I've never understood why BMW recommends against rotation. I've heard their arguement about it changing the handling of the car, but this arguement seems insignificant compared to the tire wear argument. But I suppose this is because BMW sees tire wear as strictly a tire manufacturer's issue and doesn't offer any sort of tire warranty or guarrantee on any sort of tire issue.

And on top of that, they dial in quite a lot of camber, which is a recipe for odd tire wear - further aggravating the issue.



I have wondered this myself. I think they do that because most of their cars if equipped with the sport package and the bigger engines have staggered rims (backs wider than fronts). If you look at the average BMW's door jamb tire sticker you'll see about 4-6 different tire/wheel size combo options on a chart. Each has a load rating. If I'm not mistaken, some cars like the m3's can even come with different diameter rims (not sure on this one).

In any case, they do this in my opinion so that somebody doesn't rotate the fat tires to the front on some 360hp v8 car, making the car oversteer tremendously and wipe out. They are going for a little or sometimes significant understeer for "saftey".

My 330ci came with the sport package and interestingly 17" Michelin Pilot PS2's (excellent tire)- all four in identical sizes. I rotated them religiously, as I do with my identical sized 18" rims/tires.

This works well because the front tires tend to wear on the outside (for track days - due to hard cornering) and the rears tend to wear on the inside, due to negative camber. I get the most use out of my rubber by rotating them.
 
Originally Posted By: moribundman
If you wear the same pair of shoes all the time, the insoles never get a chance to dry out . . . Anyway, I fail to see how the analogy between shoes and tires applies.


Thanks. I've never worn out the inside of a shoe or had to replace it due to interior deterioration or smell (except sandals), so I never considered that. I'd guess that the cool, dry climate helps to prevent these problems.

I also don't think the analogy applies.

So what tires have you tried, uzun? At Tirerack, the cheapest and likely the longest-wearing of the two non-runflat options available is the Yokohama S-Drive. It might be worth trying.

I wouldn't bother rotating so often at that wear rate; you'll never come close to reaching the point that the tire is too old before the tread wears out. I'd probably just put new ones on the back every time the fronts wear out with no other rotations. If, like Jim 5, you have a situation where you can get more life out of them by rotating, then do it. But every 1000 miles is excessive, IMO.
 
I meant a lessened thermo/flexing cycle in the resting shoe or tire. Shoes also fail from compresion of sole until a sufficent loss of dampening/shock absorbtion, or can simply split. Elastomeric substances tires/shoes are similar that way, yes tire has air inside, but we not worry about wearing that out tis the rubber. The shoes are running if that clears anything up, all anaolgies are flawed, maybe some more than others. If these tires are wearing straight across tread, maybe this car has higher percent of weight on the front ones than usual, I believe similar/greater torque/hp are on other cars that are heavier and FWD, do they gring these tires at the same rate on those cars?
 
Originally Posted By: rpn453
Originally Posted By: moribundman
If you wear the same pair of shoes all the time, the insoles never get a chance to dry out . . . Anyway, I fail to see how the analogy between shoes and tires applies.


Thanks. I've never worn out the inside of a shoe or had to replace it due to interior deterioration or smell (except sandals), so I never considered that. I'd guess that the cool, dry climate helps to prevent these problems.

I also don't think the analogy applies.

So what tires have you tried, uzun? At Tirerack, the cheapest and likely the longest-wearing of the two non-runflat options available is the Yokohama S-Drive. It might be worth trying.

I wouldn't bother rotating so often at that wear rate; you'll never come close to reaching the point that the tire is too old before the tread wears out. I'd probably just put new ones on the back every time the fronts wear out with no other rotations. If, like Jim 5, you have a situation where you can get more life out of them by rotating, then do it. But every 1000 miles is excessive, IMO.


Thanks for the tips, I will see what I can do.

I am using Pirelli P Zero runflat tires right now. This is the factory tire that they put on some of the most expensive latest super cars, and it comes in a size that fits the MINI, so I decided to try it out. Our MINIs don't come with a spare tire, so I am running runflat tires for safety. I don't like carrying around a spare tire in the very limited trunk space. Also, I hit a very bad dip in the pavement in a construction zone few weeks ago, and my tires and wheels survived it miraculously without any damage. I was definitely expecting some damage. I don't think regular tires would have survived that impact. I am a believer in runflat tires now!

Here is a picture of the little monster that's been eating my tires!

DCP_0808.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: jldcol
I meant a lessened thermo/flexing cycle in the resting shoe or tire. Shoes also fail from compresion of sole until a sufficent loss of dampening/shock absorbtion, or can simply split. Elastomeric substances tires/shoes are similar that way, yes tire has air inside, but we not worry about wearing that out tis the rubber.


But does the shoe or tire recover better if it has a longer break? I'd think it would be better for the service life to use the item up in a shorter time period, so that aging doesn't become a factor.
 
Consider the michelin pilot PS2's. Great stick and very good wear. Very highly rated tires on the tire rack, though among the most expensive. My experience has been that michelin's cost alot up front, but you get more miles out of them given the same amount of abuse, and those extra miles more than make up for the extra cost up front.

Another tire I tried is the Toyo T1-S. Really good grip, but wore out really fast. Their replacement is the T1-R, and pricing is quite good on these.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim 5
Consider the michelin pilot PS2's. Great stick and very good wear. Very highly rated tires on the tire rack, though among the most expensive. My experience has been that michelin's cost alot up front, but you get more miles out of them given the same amount of abuse, and those extra miles more than make up for the extra cost up front.

Another tire I tried is the Toyo T1-S. Really good grip, but wore out really fast. Their replacement is the T1-R, and pricing is quite good on these.


Yes, I heard about the good reputation of Michelin Pilot PS2's. I may try them out once I wear out the current tires.
 
Originally Posted By: jldcol
I meant a lessened thermo/flexing cycle in the resting shoe or tire. Shoes also fail from compresion of sole until a sufficent loss of dampening/shock absorbtion, or can simply split. Elastomeric substances tires/shoes are similar that way, yes tire has air inside, but we not worry about wearing that out tis the rubber. The shoes are running if that clears anything up, all anaolgies are flawed, maybe some more than others. If these tires are wearing straight across tread, maybe this car has higher percent of weight on the front ones than usual, I believe similar/greater torque/hp are on other cars that are heavier and FWD, do they gring these tires at the same rate on those cars?


You need to buy better shoes...
wink.gif
 
I have a wear issue with the front tires due to my driving style. A set of tires (205/55/16 W) rarely lasts more than 12k miles.

I am very happy with the Yokohama S-drive that I recently put on my quattro. Of course, it will take a few months until I can predict how they are wearing.
 
Presently my feet need more attention/money than my shoes. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll get right on that as soon as I find a rubber band and some duct tape.
 
Some years ago I read in a survival book instructions on how to fashion shoes from old car tires. You were supposed to cut a section of tire, punch holes along the edges and lace up. Mwahahaha!
 
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