i have 2 whts,1 blk,1 gry and the other set of wires is 2 blks, 1 wht, and 1 grn. Which goes to which? Thanks
connecting O2 sensor wires....
- Thread starter daves66nova
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Take it back and get a direct fit o2 sensor with no splicing.
I find the direct fits ones to be stupid expensive on some vehicles. That said, the splice in ones should have some instructions with them.
Ian
Ian
I bet the 1st one the two whites are the heater, black ground, grey signal.
2nd, blacks are ground, white is +12v for the heater, green signal.
You can heat 'em with a torch and see which wire has voltage, that's your signal.
you can hit 'em with an ohmmeter and the two that are (1/2 ohm?) somewhat resistive are the heater.
2nd, blacks are ground, white is +12v for the heater, green signal.
You can heat 'em with a torch and see which wire has voltage, that's your signal.
you can hit 'em with an ohmmeter and the two that are (1/2 ohm?) somewhat resistive are the heater.
Stop being cheap and do it the right way. Splice in ones do NOT work well and will have too much resistance if not perfectly done. PO's who do this, do not get a sale from me when they sell their car. It shows a tendency to do things half [censored]. Save yourself the trouble and buy the direct fit OEM style
On the one set of wires: The blacks are the heater wires. The green is ground. The white is the signal wire.
On the other set of wires: The black is the signal wire. The two whites are the heater wires. The gray is ground.
http://www.boschautoparts.com/NR/rdonlyr...nsorInstall.pdf
http://www.obsessionwithperfection.com/O2WireColor.htm
So...black to white(heater), black to white(heater), green to gray(ground) and white to black(signal).
On the other set of wires: The black is the signal wire. The two whites are the heater wires. The gray is ground.
http://www.boschautoparts.com/NR/rdonlyr...nsorInstall.pdf
http://www.obsessionwithperfection.com/O2WireColor.htm
So...black to white(heater), black to white(heater), green to gray(ground) and white to black(signal).
Originally Posted By: peterdaniel
Stop being cheap and do it the right way. Splice in ones do NOT work well and will have too much resistance if not perfectly done. PO's who do this, do not get a sale from me when they sell their car. It shows a tendency to do things half [censored]. Save yourself the trouble and buy the direct fit OEM style
I pay up for 'plug-n-play' living in the rust belt and you DO pay dearly as Ian says, but why is this a concern for you living in CA? A nice splice, solder and weather tight coating or wrap is fine. Over time,corrosion and resistance happens even on the best high dollar sealed connectors.
Joel
Stop being cheap and do it the right way. Splice in ones do NOT work well and will have too much resistance if not perfectly done. PO's who do this, do not get a sale from me when they sell their car. It shows a tendency to do things half [censored]. Save yourself the trouble and buy the direct fit OEM style
I pay up for 'plug-n-play' living in the rust belt and you DO pay dearly as Ian says, but why is this a concern for you living in CA? A nice splice, solder and weather tight coating or wrap is fine. Over time,corrosion and resistance happens even on the best high dollar sealed connectors.
Joel
Originally Posted By: peterdaniel
Stop being cheap and do it the right way. Splice in ones do NOT work well and will have too much resistance if not perfectly done. PO's who do this, do not get a sale from me when they sell their car. It shows a tendency to do things half [censored]. Save yourself the trouble and buy the direct fit OEM style
I don't see any big crime in splicing an oxy sensor. It's not rocket science.
I never had any trouble splicing them on my Jaguars. Jaguar OEM (probably Bosch) was about $275.00; Bosch universal aftermarket about $30.00. Seems like an easy choice as a car gets older and worth a lot less. I always thought my workmanship looked pretty good.
I just never give a rat's rear end about what subsequent owners of one of my cars may or may not think about me. If someone wants a new car, then they need to quit looking at used cars and just pony up and go to the dealer and buy a new one.
Stop being cheap and do it the right way. Splice in ones do NOT work well and will have too much resistance if not perfectly done. PO's who do this, do not get a sale from me when they sell their car. It shows a tendency to do things half [censored]. Save yourself the trouble and buy the direct fit OEM style
I don't see any big crime in splicing an oxy sensor. It's not rocket science.
I never had any trouble splicing them on my Jaguars. Jaguar OEM (probably Bosch) was about $275.00; Bosch universal aftermarket about $30.00. Seems like an easy choice as a car gets older and worth a lot less. I always thought my workmanship looked pretty good.
I just never give a rat's rear end about what subsequent owners of one of my cars may or may not think about me. If someone wants a new car, then they need to quit looking at used cars and just pony up and go to the dealer and buy a new one.
Originally Posted By: Win
Originally Posted By: peterdaniel
Stop being cheap and do it the right way. Splice in ones do NOT work well and will have too much resistance if not perfectly done. PO's who do this, do not get a sale from me when they sell their car. It shows a tendency to do things half [censored]. Save yourself the trouble and buy the direct fit OEM style
I don't see any big crime in splicing an oxy sensor. It's not rocket science.
I never had any trouble splicing them on my Jaguars. Jaguar OEM (probably Bosch) was about $275.00; Bosch universal aftermarket about $30.00. Seems like an easy choice as a car gets older and worth a lot less. I always thought my workmanship looked pretty good.
I just never give a rat's rear end about what subsequent owners of one of my cars may or may not think about me. If someone wants a new car, then they need to quit looking at used cars and just pony up and go to the dealer and buy a new one.
+1
Originally Posted By: peterdaniel
Stop being cheap and do it the right way. Splice in ones do NOT work well and will have too much resistance if not perfectly done. PO's who do this, do not get a sale from me when they sell their car. It shows a tendency to do things half [censored]. Save yourself the trouble and buy the direct fit OEM style
I don't see any big crime in splicing an oxy sensor. It's not rocket science.
I never had any trouble splicing them on my Jaguars. Jaguar OEM (probably Bosch) was about $275.00; Bosch universal aftermarket about $30.00. Seems like an easy choice as a car gets older and worth a lot less. I always thought my workmanship looked pretty good.
I just never give a rat's rear end about what subsequent owners of one of my cars may or may not think about me. If someone wants a new car, then they need to quit looking at used cars and just pony up and go to the dealer and buy a new one.
+1
I'd rather splice a known good sensor for a particular application rather than get the direct-fit one known to fail in a few months.
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Originally Posted By: peterdaniel
Stop being cheap and do it the right way. Splice in ones do NOT work well and will have too much resistance if not perfectly done.
It depends. On my Chevy and Buick spliced O2 sensors/wires worked fine. On my Audi, only OEM style O2 sensors that come with a dedicated harness work properly. This is a known issue and, as far as I know, almost everyone who chose to splice O2 sensors and wires came to regret it on that particular car.
Stop being cheap and do it the right way. Splice in ones do NOT work well and will have too much resistance if not perfectly done.
It depends. On my Chevy and Buick spliced O2 sensors/wires worked fine. On my Audi, only OEM style O2 sensors that come with a dedicated harness work properly. This is a known issue and, as far as I know, almost everyone who chose to splice O2 sensors and wires came to regret it on that particular car.
Dave,
I also should've asked why you are replacing the O2 sensor. The direct fit one for my Tracker was $470! from the GM stealership. Suzuki wanted $350 so I didn't do anything for a while until I got my scangauge. Turns out its the O2 heater element is gone but the PCM still uses the O2 sensor once its up to temperature. We drive 95% highway so I doubt the O2 sensor heater is ever needed once the car is up to temp.
Also there are O2 sensors after the cat(s) which don't do anything except monitor if the cat is working. You could use your nose for that...
Having the check engine light on all the time is a bit annoying but I check for new codes every once in a while. I should splice a generic O2 sensor in but I'll wait until spring.
Ian
I also should've asked why you are replacing the O2 sensor. The direct fit one for my Tracker was $470! from the GM stealership. Suzuki wanted $350 so I didn't do anything for a while until I got my scangauge. Turns out its the O2 heater element is gone but the PCM still uses the O2 sensor once its up to temperature. We drive 95% highway so I doubt the O2 sensor heater is ever needed once the car is up to temp.
Also there are O2 sensors after the cat(s) which don't do anything except monitor if the cat is working. You could use your nose for that...
Having the check engine light on all the time is a bit annoying but I check for new codes every once in a while. I should splice a generic O2 sensor in but I'll wait until spring.
Ian
Originally Posted By: peterdaniel
Stop being cheap and do it the right way. Splice in ones do NOT work well and will have too much resistance if not perfectly done. PO's who do this, do not get a sale from me when they sell their car. It shows a tendency to do things half [censored]. Save yourself the trouble and buy the direct fit OEM style
I'm selling this p.o.s. car that i regret ever buying.That's why i'm doing it the cheap way.
Stop being cheap and do it the right way. Splice in ones do NOT work well and will have too much resistance if not perfectly done. PO's who do this, do not get a sale from me when they sell their car. It shows a tendency to do things half [censored]. Save yourself the trouble and buy the direct fit OEM style
I'm selling this p.o.s. car that i regret ever buying.That's why i'm doing it the cheap way.
What kind of car is it? One of the wire color combinations you're working with is for a Denso sensor..
92 accord
I spliced an $18 bosch universal on my saturn, cured the P0133. I do toss the crimp connector and strip the wire and twist it for a proper connection. A perfectionist would solder but if it needed another replacement the factory harness would start getting dangerously short.
When I sell a used car, and I flip a couple a year, half the time thesucker buyer doesn't even open the hood. If someone gets picky about something like that I usually just ask them to make an offer (there are some who feel a need to hem and haw before doing so)... and if they don't like it there are plenty more fish in the sea who need a reliable car for cheap money.
When I sell a used car, and I flip a couple a year, half the time the
I use a Bosch 3 wire specced for a Ford 5 L to replace the 4 wire O2 sensor on my BMWs. I splice it and use a hose clamp to hold the drain wire to the sensor housing. Works [censored], saves me about 75 $
Originally Posted By: andyd
I use a Bosch 3 wire specced for a Ford 5 L to replace the 4 wire O2 sensor on my BMWs. I splice it and use a hose clamp to hold the drain wire to the sensor housing. Works [censored], saves me about 75 $
I think 4 to 4 splice and solder/crimp would be acceptable, but 4 to 3 is not a very high quality fix.
I use a Bosch 3 wire specced for a Ford 5 L to replace the 4 wire O2 sensor on my BMWs. I splice it and use a hose clamp to hold the drain wire to the sensor housing. Works [censored], saves me about 75 $
I think 4 to 4 splice and solder/crimp would be acceptable, but 4 to 3 is not a very high quality fix.
Originally Posted By: daves66nova
92 accord
Was the OEM sensor something over $200?
92 accord
Was the OEM sensor something over $200?
Originally Posted By: andyd
I use a Bosch 3 wire specced for a Ford 5 L to replace the 4 wire O2 sensor on my BMWs. I splice it and use a hose clamp to hold the drain wire to the sensor housing. Works [censored], saves me about 75 $
If you get the one for the 94/95 Ford Mustang 5L it's a 4 wire and not real expensive (oxyensensors.com has 'em for $40)
I use a Bosch 3 wire specced for a Ford 5 L to replace the 4 wire O2 sensor on my BMWs. I splice it and use a hose clamp to hold the drain wire to the sensor housing. Works [censored], saves me about 75 $
If you get the one for the 94/95 Ford Mustang 5L it's a 4 wire and not real expensive (oxyensensors.com has 'em for $40)
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