Fuji 1.0 Nevada?

[Tempest]

http://www.fujibikes.com/Mountain/HardtailSport/Nevada10.aspx
I found one of these at Sport's Chalet today for $569 + comes with initial set up and re-tune in 90 days.

The guy selling it said they are generally better than most of the Diamondbacks (in the same price range), but I wouldn't know.
He made a big deal about the Deore rear derailleur. He also said that the Suntor fork was pretty good and it locks. It's all Greek to me.

I don't know much about Fuji bikes but this bike looks really nice. What do you guys think?

ETA: What about the sealed bearings? Is that the way to go?

 

[moribundman]

That Suntour fork is not only inexpensive (ca $100), but it's also cheap. It's good for a 13 year old -- until it breaks after a week. I wouldn't waste my money on that.

If you want a good bike for under $700, go with one that has no suspension parts. You can always get a decent, used suspension fork for a couple hundred dollars and a maybe a seat post with suspension if you have a tender rear end.

Fuji bikes (frames) are usually good.

 

[Tempest]

Thanks Mori. Not expecting super great forks at this price point as I've heard you have to spend $300+ to get "decent" forks. All is relative though as I don't think I'll be pounding on this bike a bunch.

I actually wish I could find a decent mountain/road bike without front suspension but I have yet to be able to! Everything from walmart to the bike shops and they all have it.

How is the rest of the set up?

I also road a Giant Rincon Street:
http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/mountain/2280/32124/ for a few minutes and it also seemed pretty good (on pavement). They had it for $500 including 2 tune ups. Nice dual use tires as well.

 

[moribundman]

People sell their new stuff that doesn't fit or that they feel must be upgraded after a week. I bought an essentially brand-new $400 Marzocchi suspension fork for about $180 on ebay.

I can't comment on the other components on that Fuji bike, because I have no experience with them. Sealed bearings are the way to go. A headset should have sealed cartridge bearings, in my opinion.

Your best bet of finding a good, simple bike without any suspension is your local bike dealer. I see useable bikes that seem reasonably durable for around $500 at the local bike shops. Most people will buy the more feature-rich offerings in the same price class, but they also get a bike that's two tiers lower than the simple one. I'd rather buy a used (or stolen

) bike off craigslist than a new clunker.

 

[wavinwayne]

It looks like a good, durable bike. The front fork looks decent enough to me. I wouldn't waste any money upgrading the fork unless something in it breaks. Enjoy your new ride!

 

[moribundman]

I'd check for what maximum weight that fork is rated.

reviews

 

[IndyIan]

What's your intended usage? And how much do you weigh? Most forks are way undersprung for anyone over 160lbs that is riding at an intermediate level off road. If you are going ride around town and go on walking trails then any bike fork is fine and especially that one if the locking mechanism works(it locks the fork from compressing). Go for a test ride and bounce on it, if it holds it should be fine
Eventually if you want to go fast off road, then get a good used fork, the rest of the bike is fine.
Ian

 

[NYEngineer]

My stepson's Giant had one of those forks on it. It was strong enough... Just sloppy.

I'm sure the rest of the bike is fine. I would guess ride it and if the fork bothers you, find a closeout on a Rockshox or a Manitou for a fraction of the original MSRP.

 

[Tempest]

I found a 2008 Fuji Police Special on line for $695 shipped. I like the bike a lot and it only needed slight adjustments out of the box. Basically a mountain bike set up for street use.

I went with a 17" frame but probably should have gone with a 19" but it still fits OK. Shock seems very nice with good reviews. Lubed it with Finish line flouro oil which seems great.

 

[moribundman]

On the fork shock wiper seals I'd use Slick Honey. I wipe the stanchions down after every ride and relube.

 

[Tempest]

The flouro oil is basically Krytox oil so it's perfectly compatiable with the seals. I went for a ride after a rain and the water beaded up on the stuff.

Thanks for the info though.

 

[moribundman]

It's not so much about seal compatibility. It seems that the stanchions and seals last the longest with Slick Honey. At least that's the consensus among local mountain bikers and bike mechanics. After 4 years, the stanchions and seals on my bike are original and look pristine despite all the salt and sand near the beach.

Slick Honey is a very light grease. Oil will leak past the dust seal and, after repeated application, leak past the seal, making a mess of fork internals.

Look, you may use what you want -- even I Can't Believe It's Not Butter!

 

[Tempest]

I'll not doubt your experience, but when I called around to some local shops to find the flouro oil the comment I got was that it was the best stuff they had used but they didn't have any (except for one shop that did).

The oil is weird stuff in that it kinda' leaves a dryish film that doesn't migrate once it spreads. Never seen anything else behave this way. I'm worried about dust in the grease as well.

 

[moribundman]

I checked what flouro oil is. It's made for suspension forks and sounds like a fine product.

 

[oilboy123]

I have an old Manitou fork 1993? Should I be lubing the seals on it as well?

 

[moribundman]

I had a Manitou 2 suspension fork on a 1992 Gary Fisher Mt. Tam. I don't ever lubed that fork at all, because it was considered maintenance-free. I can't remember if there were wiper seals on the stanchions. That fork had interchangeable elastomer bushings that supplied dampening. Suspension travel was only about 1.5."