Electric Choke On Quadrajet Carburetor

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It does help, I looked at some pictures, I was playing with the choke pull off screw.

I now remember where the fast idle screw is, I guess turning it clockwise will increase the fast idle speed, I will check out the Autozone guide.

SuperEd73 did you go to Glen Cove High School out there in Long Island N.Y.
 
c3po, nah I didn't grow up in Glen Cove. Actually grew up further east on the island in a town called Bohemia. I moved to G.C. about 6 years ago. Ed B.
 
Originally Posted By: TooManyWheels
The fast idle screw is the one which seats against the fast idle cam on the throttle shaft.


Thanks, I looked at the pictures and I now know where it is.

What rpm do I need to have the car running at when it is cold, is it 1500 rpm's. Basically start the car up and have someone turn the screw until it is at a certain rpm while in park or neutral.

Once in drive the idle will come down but not too much to stall the car out or cause a bog.
 
1500-1600 rpm should be about right. Its set in the morning when cold. Step on the gas all the way to the floor to close the choke and to set the cam into position. Make sure that screw is making contact with the highest point on that cam, start the car and see how fast its idling, work it from there.
 
You basically have it right. On a cold engine, kick the throttle so the choke closes. That will put the fast idle screw in position to be adjusted. I'd just set it to specs. If you still have the underhood sticker it should have the fast idle rpm listed. As the engine warms up and the choke opens, the fast idle screw will move to lower positions on the choke cam allowing idle speed to drop. When the choke is fully open, the fast idle screw tip shouldn't be pushing on the throttle plate tang at all. That's when your curb idle screw takes over.

Ed B.
 
Originally Posted By: SuperEd73
You basically have it right. On a cold engine, kick the throttle so the choke closes. That will put the fast idle screw in position to be adjusted. I'd just set it to specs. If you still have the underhood sticker it should have the fast idle rpm listed. As the engine warms up and the choke opens, the fast idle screw will move to lower positions on the choke cam allowing idle speed to drop. When the choke is fully open, the fast idle screw tip shouldn't be pushing on the throttle plate tang at all. That's when your curb idle screw takes over.



Ed B.


thanks Ed, I am going to print this out for future referrence, its not like I do this stuff everyday.
 
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
1500-1600 rpm should be about right. Its set in the morning when cold. Step on the gas all the way to the floor to close the choke and to set the cam into position. Make sure that screw is making contact with the highest point on that cam, start the car and see how fast its idling, work it from there.


Frank, you make a good point to, so I will print this out and have all of this info handy when I get going with this Saturday morning.
 
I went out into the garage and turned the screw up 1 turn, set the choke and then went and started the car.

It jumped up to 1500 rpm's and stayed there for about 30 seconds and then the idle slowly came down to normal in a minute.

The choke went from closed to fully open in about a minute, engine was running smooth. I backed the car out a little and went back into the garage, no stalling.

I had the light on in the garage and a drop light but I could not see the cam, I will have to do this during the day when there is more light.

I checked the fuse and it was fine.

1) How long should the car fast idle
2) How long between fast idle and normal idle
3) How long should it take for choke to go from open to close

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
Well lets see if I can help.

1. It will fast idle until you tap the throttle. This releases the pressure from the cam and allows it to drop.

2. See 1

3. This would really depend on the weather and how tight the choke is set. But I'm gonna say from my experinces between 1-2 minutes.


The reason you noticed it dropping idle on it's own is the choke was opening and leaning the mixture. I've never seen a Q-jet that will drop from fast idle without tapping the throttle.
 
Clayton, I might need to get out there tommorow and reset the fast idle screw, I might have accidently touched the gas pedal.

I am wondering though about the screw that controls how tight the choke is, if it is tight will it open sooner or later.

If it is loose, will it open sooner or later, a few people have said something about notches on the fast idle cam.

The car is now better than it was this morning, I could barely keep it running, it was shaking and trembling, now it is very smooth.
 
You should set the fast idle with the car cold and running, Just have everything ready to do it with before you start it.

If it starts fine and idles fine and the choke opens up all the way within a few minutes then I'd say it's fine.

I wish I still had my truck, I kinda miss tinkering with the old Q-jet. Nothing like the sound of those ginormous secondaries coming in.
 
Originally Posted By: -Clayton-
You should set the fast idle with the car cold and running, Just have everything ready to do it with before you start it.

If it starts fine and idles fine and the choke opens up all the way within a few minutes then I'd say it's fine.

I wish I still had my truck, I kinda miss tinkering with the old Q-jet. Nothing like the sound of those ginormous secondaries coming in.


I did set the fast idle when the car was cold tonite.

I will play with it tommorow morning or maybe in the evening.
 
c3po,

It sounds like everything is functioning as it should with regards to the choke & fast idle settings. The rpms should hold at (or near) the fast idle speed until you kick the throttle when the choke opens up. There are probably a couple of notches on that cam between full choke (fast idle) and no choke (curb idle) that will allow the rpms to settle somewhere in between. The question now is cold engine drivability. When the car comes down to idle, can you drive it normally or does it still sputter/stumble when the engine is still cold? If so, I would guess the choke is opening too quickly. If not, you're probably ok for now.

Ed B.
 
Originally Posted By: SuperEd73
c3po,

It sounds like everything is functioning as it should with regards to the choke & fast idle settings. The rpms should hold at (or near) the fast idle speed until you kick the throttle when the choke opens up. There are probably a couple of notches on that cam between full choke (fast idle) and no choke (curb idle) that will allow the rpms to settle somewhere in between. The question now is cold engine drivability. When the car comes down to idle, can you drive it normally or does it still sputter/stumble when the engine is still cold? If so, I would guess the choke is opening too quickly. If not, you're probably ok for now.

Ed B.

After I started the car up last night, I pulled out of the driveway and it was fine. I am going to try and take the car out for a drive later today or tommorow.

I think the main problem was that the mechanic did not set the fast idle screw for whatever reason. I will keep everyone posted.
 
My first job was at Carter Carburetor in St. Louis from 1967 to 1972. Carter did development and manufacturing of Quadrajets under license from GM/Rochester. Soak the choke coil assembly in a 70°F water bath for about 15 minutes. Use a thermometer in the water bath. Then quickly take it out of the water and put it in place on the carb, forget the screws. Turn it so the choke plate JUST closes. The center mark etched on the choke coil housing should be pretty close to the pointer. If it is, take it off, dry out the water and mount it back on the carb in the same position; this time use the screws. If the index pointer is more than about 10 angular degrees from the etched mark on the coil, you probably need a new coil assembly. Then check the vacuum choke pull off by applying vacuum and then sealing the hose. If it does not stay retracted when you seal off the vacuum hose, it's bad. Fast idle should be around 1500 RPM on the top step of the fast idle cam with the engine warm. If you are experiencing lean coughs, or die outs after cold start up. Turn the coil one notch richer. If that doesn't relieve the lean condition on the next cold start, bend the little u-shaped link from the choke pull off to make it SLIGHTLY longer, so it does not pull the choke open as much as it did. That particular adjustment is very sensitive so adjust in tiny increments. Q-Jets were calibrated for low exhaust emissions so the choke will have completed everything it is designed to do within about the first 1.5 miles. After that first mile and a half drivability is often a bit weak until the engine is fully warm so cut it a little slack there. If you describe just how the car behaves after being cold started, and within that first mile and a half, it can help with the diagnosis.
 
I will have to look at this top notch on the cam, because I cannot see anything.

This is not the original Quadrajet, I had a computer controlled 1 on there before, a new 1 would have been $1100.00, thats right eleven hundred dollars, I said no thanks and picked up a Jet Quadrajet Carburetor from Summit.

The fast idle screw is pressing on the cam, I will go out now and look for the notches.

I am taking the car out tonite because it is a balmy 53 degrees outside, I will let you know how everything goes.
 
Slightly off topic. My brother used to own an '81 Corvette with the 350 under the hood. It had a computer controlled 4-bbl as well. I have no idea what the computer actually controlled but luckily that carb never required any service while my brother owned it. Chevy switched over to the "Cross-Fire" fuel injection system in '82 on the vette. I remember the fast idle on that engine would actually be around 1900-2000rpm. We were afraid to put it into gear until the choke opened up and it would idle.

Ed B.
 
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