Pennzoil Platinum/5w30 3400 miles, 09 Mazdaspeed3

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This is my first UOA. The engine was 100% stock for this term.

Mileage at oil change: 6885 mi
Oil filter: Motorcraft(Ford/Mazda OEM)
Length of time used: 2 months
Miles on oil: 3400mi
Driving: Mostly highway, but a good portion of NYC bumper to bumper traffic.
mad.gif
Otherwise "spirited"
Air filter: Stock

I'm a little concerned about the content of fuel and its affect on viscosity and flash point. However, the fuel dilution seems to be normal for this engine, due to direct injection.

Let me know what you think!

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Don't do another uoa untill the engine gets around 15,000 miles all you will see is the break in wear going down and with the short breakin oil changes you don't need a syn oil.save the $$$
 
These engines are brutal on oil. I would try 10w30 PP and if the numbers don't improve, try Amsoil or Renewable Lubricants.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
These engines are brutal on oil. I would try 10w30 PP and if the numbers don't improve, try Amsoil or Renewable Lubricants.
For break in oil change intervals?
 
I'm with Buster. With this direct injected, turbocharged, high specific output motor, I would stick with synthetic, and the most robust synthetic I could afford. If fuel dilution stays high, I might also mix in a quart or two of something higher viscosity so the final visc. stays at least in the 30wt range.
Steve has a point too; not real valuable sampling often until the motor is broken in, though one or two during break-in are nice to make sure nothing has gone completely loco.
Wear looks pretty good for a motor this new!

edit:
I like Pennzoil Platinum, bump the viscosity up a bit and it looks like it should work well for you long-term.
 
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All numbers besides copper look great and judging by the universal averages, especially iron, which is already lower than univ average on a per mile basis on this infant engine. Does this car have an intercooler or other components that shed a lot of copper early in their life? I'd stick with this same oil, give it some more time and make sure you aren't idling it too much (especially to warm it up) and make sure you're sampling the oil immediately after a decent run as opposed to idling it to warm it up for the change (lots of people do this and it will show fuel dilution).
 
Wow. Did the engine ever beat the cr#p outta that oil. Below 8 cst in less than 4k miles....ouch!
 
OEM's and oil makers are going to have to get their act together with these DI engines and oil drain intervals. PP holds up pretty good when fuel is present so I think you are ok but I would bump up to a 10w30.
 
I get the impression that this might not be a fair trial for the car. If anybody here is from the NYC area, they might be familiar with the Tappan Zee bridge, which until recently, had "Bridge plates" on it. Long story short, this oil was driven in a minimum of 10(3 on the bridge each way, plus 2 of backup) miles of bumper to bumper a day. I'm thinking the excessive idling and stop and go didn't do it any favors. Fortunately, those bridge plates are up, and the traffic situation is much improved.

The warmup that I did was a quick drive. The thermostat was nearing the center, but I likely should have been a little tougher on it. The oil wasn't that hot when I got it out.

Those of you championing the 10w30, should I wait until the weather begins to warm? I say this because sometimes it is 0 degrees (F) when I start the car up in the morning.
 
yeah 10 weight is good to like 20 degrees f i think.
 
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Originally Posted By: Jonny Z
Had the engine been sufficiently warmed up prior to sampling?


The engine was warmed up, but I'm not confident it was sufficiently. While the coolant was approaching operating temperature, I'm not sure the oil was, as when I took the oil out, it was slightly warm.

This might explain some of the fuel. Could this also explain the viscosity drop?
 
Originally Posted By: AngryRotarian
Originally Posted By: Jonny Z
Had the engine been sufficiently warmed up prior to sampling?


The engine was warmed up, but I'm not confident it was sufficiently. While the coolant was approaching operating temperature, I'm not sure the oil was, as when I took the oil out, it was slightly warm.

This might explain some of the fuel. Could this also explain the viscosity drop?


Absolutely could.
 
These engines seem to improve with after market intakes. The increased air flow seems to really help with the fuel dilution. If you are seriously wanting to get that dilution down, that would be my first suggestion.
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
These engines seem to improve with after market intakes. The increased air flow seems to really help with the fuel dilution. If you are seriously wanting to get that dilution down, that would be my first suggestion.


Yup. One's already on the way. I hadn't heard that it helps with the dilution, I'm doing it for the increased power/torque, better turbo response, and gas mileage (it leans out the mixture some). If it helps with the fuel dilution, all the better!
 
I would try some Castrol 0W30. Excellent for low temps, and it's a very strong 30 weight - 12.1 @ 100 C* cSt versus 10.2 for the PP. The additional viscosity should allow for more room as the oil shears down from fuel and what not.

That, or even Amsoil 0W30 should do well :)
 
Originally Posted By: AngryRotarian
I get the impression that this might not be a fair trial for the car. If anybody here is from the NYC area, they might be familiar with the Tappan Zee bridge, which until recently, had "Bridge plates" on it. Long story short, this oil was driven in a minimum of 10(3 on the bridge each way, plus 2 of backup) miles of bumper to bumper a day. I'm thinking the excessive idling and stop and go didn't do it any favors. Fortunately, those bridge plates are up, and the traffic situation is much improved.

The warmup that I did was a quick drive. The thermostat was nearing the center, but I likely should have been a little tougher on it. The oil wasn't that hot when I got it out.

Those of you championing the 10w30, should I wait until the weather begins to warm? I say this because sometimes it is 0 degrees (F) when I start the car up in the morning.


Great analysis. This engine likes the oil to get nice and highway-miles hot on a regular basis to keep those lighter hydrocarbons burned off. That and the low miles on the car, give it another OCI or two and try again. This grade of PP has been nothing but magical in my MS3. I'm at about 42k now.

And yes, the CAI is a great first upgrade. Watch a couple of stock dyno runs on Youtube, and you'll see a new or upgraded torque mount is in your near future as well (the engine rocks all over the place!). I recommend inserts offered by Corksport, which is about the best you can do without adding any NVH to an otherwise well-tuned car. Enjoy and welcome!
 
Nothing wrong with that UOA considering it's breaking in, and the driving use. It's a known diluter.. as BeerLube said go for a nice highway run and stick with PP and trend your UOAs.
 
Originally Posted By: BeerLube
Originally Posted By: AngryRotarian
I get the impression that this might not be a fair trial for the car. If anybody here is from the NYC area, they might be familiar with the Tappan Zee bridge, which until recently, had "Bridge plates" on it. Long story short, this oil was driven in a minimum of 10(3 on the bridge each way, plus 2 of backup) miles of bumper to bumper a day. I'm thinking the excessive idling and stop and go didn't do it any favors. Fortunately, those bridge plates are up, and the traffic situation is much improved.

The warmup that I did was a quick drive. The thermostat was nearing the center, but I likely should have been a little tougher on it. The oil wasn't that hot when I got it out.

Those of you championing the 10w30, should I wait until the weather begins to warm? I say this because sometimes it is 0 degrees (F) when I start the car up in the morning.


Great analysis. This engine likes the oil to get nice and highway-miles hot on a regular basis to keep those lighter hydrocarbons burned off. That and the low miles on the car, give it another OCI or two and try again. This grade of PP has been nothing but magical in my MS3. I'm at about 42k now.

And yes, the CAI is a great first upgrade. Watch a couple of stock dyno runs on Youtube, and you'll see a new or upgraded torque mount is in your near future as well (the engine rocks all over the place!). I recommend inserts offered by Corksport, which is about the best you can do without adding any NVH to an otherwise well-tuned car. Enjoy and welcome!



Yeah, I already got the corksport inserts. They were my second mod (first was shifter bushings). I was hitting the exhaust against the bottom of my car (or something was banging) on hard shifts. The inserts fixed all that. The CP-E nano has been great. Awesome sound and power. Gas mileage has even improved when I'm not beating it.

Good to hear from another Mazdaspeeder, are you a member of a Mazda forum (I'm over at Mazda3Forums)?
 
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