Guess it's the luck of the draw then-just like buying cars, tires, wives etc
Steve
Steve
Walmart Everstart Maxx Battery Fails After 20-Mo
- Thread starter The Critic
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I am beginning a search for a new battery for my Jeep. A while back, I e-mailed Jonson Controls and asked if they made Walmart Batteries. They do , but not for WMs in my area. That means Exide makes 'em. I have had a certain amount of trouble with present battery which is WM Maax. It is on the charger as I type this. It is 5 yrs old and has always been problematical. I will cut it some slack , being that the Jeep's alternator and wiring is iffy. And it sits for weeks sometimes. But I will be shopping at Auto-zone for a battery. I had very bad luck with Exide batteries and will not knowingly buy another.
Maybe an Interstate, more expensive, but hard to go wrong.
Originally Posted By: kgb007stb
That is an awesome machine, was that the EXP-1000, I am still experimenting with one with very good results. The SOC is state of charge or how well the battery is holding up charge, so although it scored high on the CCA test, a cell is either shorted or going bad causing pre-mature signs of failure. Hard to detect on cold starts as the battery is able to provide CCA for the starter, at 39F ambient my SC2 takes 138A cold start, my SL1 takes 139A, values stay the same after engine warms up. The H or health indicates the overall health of the battery, I believe this is the actual internal resistance and other parameters. Had you had a classical load test performed the battery may have passed with flying colors. These testers are extremely good in predicting battery failure in the beginning stages.
Your charging and starting is fine, the ripple effect is used to troubleshoot early charging problems before they develop into something very serious. Load test on the alternator confirms that all three phases are working fine, an alternator can have one or two fazes fail thus produce 2/3 or 1/3 of its rated output and look fine to the average user.
Starting is fine as well, today we use mainly permanent magnet motors but older types with brushes would have to have periodic maintenance performed on the comutators, but that is still a good test to have.
I’ve had a bad experience with Everlast when it developed an internal short after 6mo of use without any prior warning, of course this was prior to knowing that you can actually test a battery and its health.
I would love to attack your battery with my 3 dollar temperature compensated hydrometer to confirm my results.
After driving to a place and a passing charging system you would expect the battery to have a 80% or higher SOH, so that battery is on its way out.
Thanks!
I'm not sure which Midtronics tester it was. The one at Pep Boys was one that was a rolling cart and the Walmart one was a handheld unit. Either way, both testers delivered the same result: a failed battery.
The alternator has 60,000 miles, the original died at 63,000 miles. When the original failed, my dad had it replaced at Pep Boys with a new Prostart one.
The starter is also new, I replaced it back at 100k. I used a Valeo one (new) from AutoZone.
That is an awesome machine, was that the EXP-1000, I am still experimenting with one with very good results. The SOC is state of charge or how well the battery is holding up charge, so although it scored high on the CCA test, a cell is either shorted or going bad causing pre-mature signs of failure. Hard to detect on cold starts as the battery is able to provide CCA for the starter, at 39F ambient my SC2 takes 138A cold start, my SL1 takes 139A, values stay the same after engine warms up. The H or health indicates the overall health of the battery, I believe this is the actual internal resistance and other parameters. Had you had a classical load test performed the battery may have passed with flying colors. These testers are extremely good in predicting battery failure in the beginning stages.
Your charging and starting is fine, the ripple effect is used to troubleshoot early charging problems before they develop into something very serious. Load test on the alternator confirms that all three phases are working fine, an alternator can have one or two fazes fail thus produce 2/3 or 1/3 of its rated output and look fine to the average user.
Starting is fine as well, today we use mainly permanent magnet motors but older types with brushes would have to have periodic maintenance performed on the comutators, but that is still a good test to have.
I’ve had a bad experience with Everlast when it developed an internal short after 6mo of use without any prior warning, of course this was prior to knowing that you can actually test a battery and its health.
I would love to attack your battery with my 3 dollar temperature compensated hydrometer to confirm my results.
After driving to a place and a passing charging system you would expect the battery to have a 80% or higher SOH, so that battery is on its way out.
Thanks!
I'm not sure which Midtronics tester it was. The one at Pep Boys was one that was a rolling cart and the Walmart one was a handheld unit. Either way, both testers delivered the same result: a failed battery.
The alternator has 60,000 miles, the original died at 63,000 miles. When the original failed, my dad had it replaced at Pep Boys with a new Prostart one.
The starter is also new, I replaced it back at 100k. I used a Valeo one (new) from AutoZone.
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