Motul Synthetic 5W-40....The Best Snow Blower oil?

[Pete591]

I feel this oil may be one of the best snowblower oils around.


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Motul 5W-40 100% Synthetic

VOA

Al-0
Chrome-0
Iron-2
Copper-0
Lead-0
Tin-0
Moly-743
Nickel-1
Silver-0
Potassium-0
Managanese-1
Titanium-0
Potassium-0
Boron-19
Silicon-12 (anti-foam)
Sodium-3
Calcium-2558
Magnesium-715
Phosphorous-1317
Zinc-1409
Barium-0

TBN-12.3

Sus Vic 100*F 68.9

 

[buster]

Looks good, but you won't know until you run it.

 

[mva]

I'm going to try GC 0W30 in my snowblower soon. My daughter gave me a litre of the elf juice for xmas.

 

[Bror Jace]

Pete591, if you are not correct ... you are certainly on the right track.

I guess I would start this conversation differently. What would make an ideal snowblower oil? Opinions vary, but here's some thoughts I would offer to get the discussion moving again:

1) Low temp pour point - This is critical for snowblowers that are stored in cold garages, tool sheds and the like. A snowblower isn't much use if you can't start it. Also, we know that most wear occurs upon start-up. It just stands to reason that a colder lubricant Some engines (B&S, I think) now even warn of engine damage if you try to start their engines using 30 weight oil in sub-freezing temps. Feel free to discard this low-temp requirement if the machine is stored in a heated area.

2) Weight - opinions vary ... but an operating weight somewhere between a 30 and 40 weight is ideal for these splash-lubed machines prefer. The heavier 30 and even 40 weights also provide a bit of insurance in the case of shearing and fuel dilution ... both which will decrease operating temp viscosity.

3) Additive package - Since these (carbureted) engines are subject to fuel dilution, an add-pack that is designed with this in mind is a definite plus. HDEOs are better at dealing with fuel dilution than regular (PC) motor oils. Also, fans of outdoor power equipment tend to want more barrier anti-wear adds (moly, boron, calcium, ZDDP, etc …). With no catalytic converters on these engines, there's very little downside to this kind of formulation. Yes, there is possible spark-plug fouling on worn engines ... but this is fairly rare and fairly easily rectified with a new plug every couple years.

4) Economy – Most snowblower engines are splash lubricated and therefore have no spin-on (“full flow”) oil filter. So, it is advisable to change the oil frequently to flush out the bits of metal that inevitably accumulate in the oil. In doing this, price becomes a factor. It may not be an overwhelming factor when the sump size is considered and the price of the machine and its fuel are factored in, but it IS a factor.

Pete591, back to your candidate of Motul 5W-40, can you tell me the pour point of this stuff?

 

[Pete591]

Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
Pete591, if you are not correct ... you are certainly on the right track.

I guess I would start this conversation differently. What would make an ideal snowblower oil? Opinions vary, but here's some thoughts I would offer to get the discussion moving again:

1) Low temp pour point - This is critical for snowblowers that are stored in cold garages, tool sheds and the like. A snowblower isn't much use if you can't start it. Also, we know that most wear occurs upon start-up. It just stands to reason that a colder lubricant Some engines (B&S, I think) now even warn of engine damage if you try to start their engines using 30 weight oil in sub-freezing temps. Feel free to discard this low-temp requirement if the machine is stored in a heated area.

2) Weight - opinions vary ... but an operating weight somewhere between a 30 and 40 weight is ideal for these splash-lubed machines prefer. The heavier 30 and even 40 weights also provide a bit of insurance in the case of shearing and fuel dilution ... both which will decrease operating temp viscosity.

3) Additive package - Since these (carbureted) engines are subject to fuel dilution, an add-pack that is designed with this in mind is a definite plus. HDEOs are better at dealing with fuel dilution than regular (PC) motor oils. Also, fans of outdoor power equipment tend to want more barrier anti-wear adds (moly, boron, calcium, ZDDP, etc …). With no catalytic converters on these engines, there's very little downside to this kind of formulation. Yes, there is possible spark-plug fouling on worn engines ... but this is fairly rare and fairly easily rectified with a new plug every couple years.

4) Economy – Most snowblower engines are splash lubricated and therefore have no spin-on (“full flow”) oil filter. So, it is advisable to change the oil frequently to flush out the bits of metal that inevitably accumulate in the oil. In doing this, price becomes a factor. It may not be an overwhelming factor when the sump size is considered and the price of the machine and its fuel are factored in, but it IS a factor.

Pete591, back to your candidate of Motul 5W-40, can you tell me the pour point of this stuff?



Excellent reply and perspective,

Viscosity grade SAE J 300 5W-40 Density at 20°C (68°F) ASTM D1298 0.848 Viscosity at 100°C (212°F) ASTM D445 13.9 mm²/s Viscosity at 40°C (104°F) ASTM D445 84.9 mm²/s Viscosity index ASTM D2270 167 Pour point ASTM D97 b> Flash point ASTM D92 215°C / 419°F TBN ASTM D 2896 7.4 mg KOH/g

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: Pete591
I feel this oil may be one of the best snowblower oils around.


Outstanding oil yes, but IMO a horrible choice for a snowblower application. You'll never utilize the properties of such a fine oil. #1, possibly aside from Honda, snowblower engines don't have air filtration. Not good for ANY oil. #2, these engines tend to be cold temp, short runners that build lots of condensation and unburnt fuel in the sump. Water doesn't mix with any oil. If you have to toss it early, where's your ROI? As far as I can see, there is none over running a conventional 5w30 or 5w20 in extreme cold.

Joel

 

[browning300wsm]

i use SYNTETIC OIL ...i live in a cold climate ...i change oil once a year ...and a quart of oil won't break anybody's bank ..

 

[JTK]

The money part of it is peanuts. It's the; 'Synthetic oil is way better for my snowblower' belief that's completely debatable.

Joel

 

[Pete591]

Originally Posted By: JTK
The money part of it is peanuts. It's the; 'Synthetic oil is way better for my snowblower' belief that's completely debatable.

Joel


It's widely known that esters are highly positively charged molecules that have a very high affinity for metals and therefore have a tough film that helps prevent exposure to gasoline and among other things also helps resist corrosion.

That with a very good does of ZDDP as a boundry lube; a hard working snowblower engine ought be well protected. It's detergency additives are excellent. A very well balanced top of the wrung ester based oil.

In the case with using Motul 5W-40...yes it's going to cost you $10/qt but the potential benefits and peace of mind speak for themselves. This may well be the best lawnmower oil as well. It would work great from the first pull to the last path cut.

There are good oils that cost less; but if you wanted the best.. this oil; with it's stout additive pack and double ester base; has got to be up there as a leader in the pack.

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: Pete591

It's widely known that esters are highly positively charged molecules that have a very high affinity for metals and therefore have a tough film that helps prevent exposure to gasoline and among other things also helps resist corrosion.


Pete, I'm with ya bud and I understand the specs and benefits of a quality synthetic engine oil. The fact still remains; IT'S A SNOWBLOWER. With typical homeowner user, the thing is going to rust, fall apart or break beyond repair long before esters would give you any benefit over a $2-3/qt oil.

Joel

 

[Pete591]

From the responses the oil is outstanding but may be overkill. That's what I wanted to know..


It would most likely be a great oil for a Corvette; Porsche etc. I would imagine.

 

[Bror Jace]

One thing about esters and their affinity to metal ... it seems that this effect can be a bit extreme in some applications. Red Line UOAs look fairly poor in relation to most other oils. We came to the conclusion that the oils (polyol ester) have a rather severe scouring effect that at least scavenge old deposits in an engine but because this effect does not slow down with continued use, it may be scouring metal off the wear surfaces ... which is counterproductive.

For most lubrication applications, I no longer use nor recommend Red Line Oil products. My gut tells me that the harsh cleaning/solvent properties outweigh most if not all the benefits of using higher doses of barrier anti-wear adds and the extreme temp properties of the esters themselves.

Are Motul's top formulas 100% ester ... or close to it? Perhaps if I've seen some 5,000+ mile UOAs from Motul that were nice and clean, I would conclude that their use in these applications is as good as it gets.

 

[Pete591]

Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
One thing about esters and their affinity to metal ... it seems that this effect can be a bit extreme in some applications. Red Line UOAs look fairly poor in relation to most other oils. We came to the conclusion that the oils (polyol ester) have a rather severe scouring effect that at least scavenge old deposits in an engine but because this effect does not slow down with continued use, it may be scouring metal off the wear surfaces ... which is counterproductive.

For most lubrication applications, I no longer use nor recommend Red Line Oil products. My gut tells me that the harsh cleaning/solvent properties outweigh most if not all the benefits of using higher doses of barrier anti-wear adds and the extreme temp properties of the esters themselves.

Are Motul's top formulas 100% ester ... or close to it? Perhaps if I've seen some 5,000+ mile UOAs from Motul that were nice and clean, I would conclude that their use in these applications is as good as it gets.



Let's presume you are right.

What would you:

1. Use in a 9 HP snowblower?

2. 16 HP Briggs Vanguard in temps from 75-90*F?

 

[StevieC]

I'm using Amsoil and love it!

 

[Pete591]

Would it be a good oil to mix 50/50 to boost ZDDP and Moly?

Along with Mg for additional detergency?

Maybe mix with Amsoil 5W-30 ASE?