Cheap bike bearing lube

[Tempest]

I bought my son (just short of 4) a cheapo 16" $50 Target bike to get started. I'll get him a better bike later but I don't want a fancy one to take the learning curve.

In typical China manufacturing fashion they use the jelly like grease, and not much of it. I took the steering head apart to put some better (and more) grease in there so that's how I know.

I'd like to get some better grease in the rear axle and pedal bearings, but I don't really want to deal with tearing the whole thing apart.

Is there enough room or clearance to get a spray grease or oil/grease combo into the bearings if you just loosen up the parts? I'm not familiar enough with these assemblies to know.

Thanks.

 

[wavinwayne]

If they are simple cone/cup, or ball bearings, yes you can just loosen things up and squeeze some Park Tools all-purpose grease in there. I use Park Tools grease for all sorts of things on my bikes.

 

[huffmuds9320]

I find that even some of the floor pump they put a small amount of some brown jelly grease. With a kids bike the rear is likely a coaster brake type (pedal backwards to brake) hub. Its relatively easy to take apart. Just clean and regrease the ball bearings and the brake metal shoes. If the ball bearings are not the ring kind then I would put grease on the wheel first then the ball bearings will be much easier to insert back.

When you retighten the wheels after putting the ball bearings back make sure its not too tight or it will be stiff. The wheel bolts that tighten to the bike frame should be tight of course.

I posted a thread about coaster brake maintenance way back. There are some pics I took of the disassembled coaster brake mechanism.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=61892&Number=784335#Post784335

I use Park Tools PolyLube 1000 grease as for many of the bike components such as ball bearings. Another grease I use is Phil Waterproof grease. For places that are hard to put grease in such as cable housing, I spray some Tri-Flow in there.

 

[jldcol]

You have only got 4 sets of bearings here to work on: front/rear wheels, crank set, and head set. Not that hard to take a weekend morning to disassemble, clean , and relube all bearings. I would take a wrench to each and every nut and bolt before you let him loose on it anyway. Since your there with the tools to do this go ahead and have at it. Given the probable length of time of use likely a one time job, so just do a good job and get it overwith.

 

[Tempest]

Thanks for the help guys. As stated I already took the steering head apart when I first put the bike together (came in a box, not fully pre assembled), and it needed it.

I noticed that the crank bearings/cages could be slightly seen past the shields so I used some of the oil/grease combo (SL-10) which sticks well and is loaded with EP. Seemed to help.

The front wheel seems to spin very well so I didn't mess with that.

I had some time today to mess with the rear axle and I'm fairly glad I did. The bearings/cages were not lubed real well and they certainly were not packed. There was some grease in there but not much. So I took care of that with some Lithishield grease (made by the same people that make Weapon Shield) and packed the 3 bearings good and put plenty on the races.

I did put the bearings in backward when trying to put it back together the first time though.

The holiday spirits probably didn't help that one.

There was a large screw type device attached to the rear sprocket. I assume this has to do with the brakes. There was quite a bit of some nasty black grease (moly?) on that and inside so I left that alone. The axle came out without having to remove the brake assembly which was nice.

The rear wheel is much more free and smooth. Thanks for the tip about getting the tightness of the bearings right. I had it too tight at first, and loosed it up until smooth with no wobble or shake.

I feel much better about the longevity of the bike now.