using MMO to thin 20w 50 to 10 w 40

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MMO was made over 70 years ago. Yes it dose what it claims. todays motors do not really need MMO.

Your putting MMO (a VERY old additive that the maker proudly states never changed the make up of so its the same 60+ year old recipe) into new motor oil with countless money spent on research and chemistry.

So your putting a 1940's oil additive into your 2008 API SM oil.

It really just dilutes the OUTSTANDING chemistry of todays motor oil.

Yea, mmo will clean up some, but I would not make it a habbit.

TO each his own.
 
Originally Posted By: rg200amp
MMO was made over 70 years ago. Yes it dose what it claims. todays motors do not really need MMO.

Your putting MMO (a VERY old additive that the maker proudly states never changed the make up of so its the same 60+ year old recipe) into new motor oil with countless money spent on research and chemistry.

So your putting a 1940's oil additive into your 2008 API SM oil.

It really just dilutes the OUTSTANDING chemistry of todays motor oil.

Yea, mmo will clean up some, but I would not make it a habbit.

TO each his own.





Yes I agree the oils of today are better than those 80 years ago. My only question to you is, if the oils of today as you say, are OUTSTANDING, why do the oils create varnish and deposits inside the engines even during regular scheduled OCIs?
 
Originally Posted By: tackleberry625
Originally Posted By: rg200amp
MMO was made over 70 years ago. Yes it dose what it claims. todays motors do not really need MMO.

Your putting MMO (a VERY old additive that the maker proudly states never changed the make up of so its the same 60+ year old recipe) into new motor oil with countless money spent on research and chemistry.

So your putting a 1940's oil additive into your 2008 API SM oil.

It really just dilutes the OUTSTANDING chemistry of todays motor oil.

Yea, mmo will clean up some, but I would not make it a habbit.

TO each his own.





Yes I agree the oils of today are better than those 80 years ago. My only question to you is, if the oils of today as you say, are OUTSTANDING, why do the oils create varnish and deposits inside the engines even during regular scheduled OCIs?


That is a totally unbacked statement that is false.

There are COUNTLESS reports of running todays and yesterdays SL spec oil for 100,000s of miles and everything stayes squeaky clean.

My 04 lincoln has about 85,000 miles on it now. The insides are clean.

If you use a quality oil and a good OCI your engine will stay clean. It has been proven countless times by the users of Pennzoil, Mobil 1, AMSOIL, ect. . . .

Now if you neglect the car like 75% of the soccer moms and dads(who think oil changes are special treats for the car), perhaps the PCV valve goes, you wait to long on your OCI, you have a small coolant leak, ect. . . . , then you look and see you have varnish. You blame the oil.
 
Originally Posted By: rg200amp
Originally Posted By: tackleberry625
Originally Posted By: rg200amp
MMO was made over 70 years ago. Yes it dose what it claims. todays motors do not really need MMO.

Your putting MMO (a VERY old additive that the maker proudly states never changed the make up of so its the same 60+ year old recipe) into new motor oil with countless money spent on research and chemistry.

So your putting a 1940's oil additive into your 2008 API SM oil.

It really just dilutes the OUTSTANDING chemistry of todays motor oil.

Yea, mmo will clean up some, but I would not make it a habbit.

TO each his own.





Yes I agree the oils of today are better than those 80 years ago. My only question to you is, if the oils of today as you say, are OUTSTANDING, why do the oils create varnish and deposits inside the engines even during regular scheduled OCIs?


That is a totally unbacked statement that is false.

There are COUNTLESS reports of running todays and yesterdays SL spec oil for 100,000s of miles and everything stayes squeaky clean.

My 04 lincoln has about 85,000 miles on it now. The insides are clean.

If you use a quality oil and a good OCI your engine will stay clean. It has been proven countless times by the users of Pennzoil, Mobil 1, AMSOIL, ect. . . .

Now if you neglect the car like 75% of the soccer moms and dads(who think oil changes are special treats for the car), perhaps the PCV valve goes, you wait to long on your OCI, you have a small coolant leak, ect. . . . , then you look and see you have varnish. You blame the oil.


unbacked and false huh? Well, a little about me. I use to have a mechanic’s shop and engine building center. I have built and rebuilt 100s if not thousands of engines before. About half passenger car/light truck and the rest high performance applications. I have seen engines gummed up from improper oil changes and I have seen some “cleaner” engines. I have also seen engines that were not gummed up but had a lot of varnish inside of them. Many of those customers had documented oil changes and proper maintenance schedules following the manufactures recommendations based on the driving conditions they were driving in. Most of the people that I dealt with that had a majority of the varnished engines drove in very hot, humid weather and had excessive idling from heavy traffic. There are also simple tests you can do to test for water/coolant leaks and nothing was wrong with those vehicles. So, for someone to say the statement I made before is not true and not backed, that person has never rebuilt engines as a professional before or have had any real experience dealing with engine work before.

Another example, my mother has a 1993 Nissan Pathfinder with 143K. I have changed the oil in her vehicle since the day she bought it new. I have either run 5w30 Valvoline dino or Castrol GTX 5w-30 with 3-4K OCIs. The engine in her vehicle does not have any gum so to speak, but it does have a large amount of varnish inside. Her vehicle was maliciously maintained the hole time because I did everything myself. I would have run MMO in it but she insisted nothing but “regular oil” was to be used. If I had run MMO with the oil, I believe there would be no varnish inside the engine.
 
I am not a fan of using MMO from the start and at every OCI, or at all. However, New oils have challenges in certain engines and applications. I am no soccer mom and did 3k OCI with semi syn motorcraft 5w 20. I still had some top end clean up to do when replacing a manifold and PCV valve at 85 K on a 4.9 Ford. I hope your engine is squeeky clean, but there renmains a "dirty" element to internal combustion engines and the high temps they operate at. Thus the need for ARX or MMO or Seafoam or whatever....

I am trying synthetics (PP) from the start on an 07 Fusion and a 08. Maybe that will make a diff.
Escape.
 
I changed to winter oil last week. 10w 40. The eta engine specs the heavier oils. I ran the last one to 350k miles on 20w 50 and 10w 40 Supertech. I see no reason to change to a thinner oil that may damage the valve train.
 
You would have still done better to switch to an 0W or 5W40 synth. They are still "heavier" oils. 0W, 5W, those are both thicker fluids at startup than the 40 visc is at operating temp. So there's no "thinner" to it. If they had been viable options, BMW would have spec'd them. Just like they...do now....
 
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