I've never found a conclusive answer if the factory oil, GM anyway for the Corvette/F-body LSx engines, has any sort of additive in it. If such was the case then changing the oil early would be doing more harm than good. I read up on corvette info now and then and as far as I know they [GM] have never put in any sort of additive, which would make sense because that would cost money. So changing oil early wouldn't hurt other than time and money, but may be worth it for peace of mind. Oil analysis would help if you want to go that route, but certainly not a necessity.
The GM 4718M spec placed on the corvette, and other models, requires oil to do better in high temp high shear conditions and have less oxidation at high temps. This should be obvious when you think about it. It is because the engine runs hot, typically coolant temps 200-220F and with the body style being what it is having less than optimum radiator and engine bay cooling and electric fans not coming on till coolant is around 220F you will see 220+ oil temps routinely, as opposed to the old 350 chevy with 160F thermostat and fan running off the crankshaft serp. belt. And this isn't when you're driving the car like it's made to be driven!
My camaro has no problem running 240F oil temps during the summer in slow moving traffic, and I've had the gauge go past 260F plenty of times (with 220-230F coolant temp).
If you were asking this question a few years ago, I'd say it's a must to go synthetic because of the high oil temps, but today's "dino" oils are way better than yesterdays and will handle high temps better. Wether it's enough to maintain your motor, that's up to you to decide. You should have an oil temp monitor, I'd say if it shows 220F and lower then there is no reason you "must" use synthetic. But my guess is being you are in TX and depending on how you drive the car you're gonna want to stick with a synthetic. Like was said, $60k car don't go looking to save $3 a quart or $20 an oil change.
As for break-in and the car using oil later in life since you started with synthetic, that's somewhat of a myth. There have been some articles that argued that synthetic will hinder piston ring breakin on a "rebuilt" engine due to frictional characteristics of the syn oil. That can very well be true, depending on the oil used and how the cylinder was honed and what piston ring material is being used. However, on factory production engines they've gotten manuf. processes down so that ring breakin and seating basically happens in the first few hours when the motor is run, as in when they start it at the plant to make sure it runs. So in that case there is no reason to shy away from a syn oil on a "factory" new motor from day 1, especially when it comes from the factory with synthetic. If it burns oil later on, it's some other problem. Best advice is to not idle the car early on, load the engine often to get high cylinder pressures which will seat the rings, and prevent coolant/oil from overheating.
What you might want to try is a cheap full-synthetic, one that runs $3 quart vs $5, which would most likely mean it's a group III oil- still dino basically but would (should) handle high temp and oxidation better than conventional name brand dino. Whether it meets GM4718M I don't know, but this might offer the best of both worlds on a new engine. It would be ok in terms of temp, but wouldn't have the frictional characteristics of a true syn and would not hinder ring breakin... theoretically.