How does one properly maintain the VW 1.8L Turbo motor that is so prone to sludge damage? Is synthetic the only way to go? Does this motor require a longer warm up time? Is Auto-RX required every X amount of miles? Would it be a mistake to buy a used car that has the 1.8T motor in it?
The VW 1.8T Motor
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A good oil change interval(3000-5000) with a quality synthetic oil is all you need to do to keep it running great!
Auto-rx is not needed unless you have a issue with the engine.
The car dose not need longer warm up times, but with a turbo its smart to not shut the motor off when your done driving to let the turbo cool down for about 1 min.
If your going to buy one, its smart to check the cars maintainence records as you would want to do with any car.
I would check the oil fill cap, and take a peek into the fill hole. If you see alot of crud there, you know there might be crud and sludge in the whole motor.
Auto-rx is not needed unless you have a issue with the engine.
The car dose not need longer warm up times, but with a turbo its smart to not shut the motor off when your done driving to let the turbo cool down for about 1 min.
If your going to buy one, its smart to check the cars maintainence records as you would want to do with any car.
I would check the oil fill cap, and take a peek into the fill hole. If you see alot of crud there, you know there might be crud and sludge in the whole motor.
I have a 2002 Passat with this engine and current over 100K with no problems or evidence of sludge deposits. Mobil 1 10W30 using Extended Performance when it was introduced using the M1 number 301 filter. This filter is much larger and allows you to put the full four quarts in. The filter is actually for the turbo version of the engine. Every oil change joint I have patronized use the standard small canister version of the VW filter. I have not checked with other filter manufacturers but I am sure others make the right filter for this engine. VW specs the larger filter for these engines. Simply unhook the intercooler hose to put it on. I changed on a 5 to 7k interval.
Make sure you use a VW 502 00 approved oil that has been independently validated to provide adequate protection against sludging in this engine. VW put out an info brochure on the importance of this after people started having problems from using non 502 00 oils, "synthetic" or not.
Any synth oil works fine, VW 502 or not.
Good solid stout motor. Synthetic is a must with turbo temps. 5K is a reasonable OCI until you get a feeling for the car. One of the reasons this engines makes the top sludger list is the little K03 turbo is always on full boil. That's the benefit/drawback to such a small turbo. It runs hard, then gets shut off and the oil is left to cook. A turbo timer or some common sense after a spirited run will take you a long way.
Do you have direct fuel injection in that engine?
I am not a fan of that system yet because it is not perfected - it often runs rich to the detriment of fuel economy, and also gets gas in the oil.
You have to use premium oil with a turbo and direct gas injection.
I am not a fan of that system yet because it is not perfected - it often runs rich to the detriment of fuel economy, and also gets gas in the oil.
You have to use premium oil with a turbo and direct gas injection.
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Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Any synth oil works fine, VW 502 or not.
My belief is that the reputation, although obviously warranted, was more a product of American consumers than it was any design defects. There was a limited distribution of approved lubricants ..and who knows if the dealer "really" used them due to high costs? There were too few VW/AUDI dealers and too many consumers driving them and (probably- my speculation) opting for other service providers (perhaps not on a timely basis) that used lubes that weren't up to the task under the confines of the recommended service length.
I've back constructed this by the massive increase in the availability of approved oils from multiple vendors.
This situation put GC on the map as far as I'm concerned.
That is, I don't think VW/AUDI engineers just went and did something stupid. I think that they foolishly didn't account for cultural/environmental variables in their recommendations. While the Euro's have moved away from their legendary "high maintenance" auto, they have not stopped jumping through hoops in other ways. The central hydraulic fluid for Audi comes to mind ..that's only matched in VI by aviation grade synthetics.
Any synth oil works fine, VW 502 or not.
My belief is that the reputation, although obviously warranted, was more a product of American consumers than it was any design defects. There was a limited distribution of approved lubricants ..and who knows if the dealer "really" used them due to high costs? There were too few VW/AUDI dealers and too many consumers driving them and (probably- my speculation) opting for other service providers (perhaps not on a timely basis) that used lubes that weren't up to the task under the confines of the recommended service length.
I've back constructed this by the massive increase in the availability of approved oils from multiple vendors.
This situation put GC on the map as far as I'm concerned.
That is, I don't think VW/AUDI engineers just went and did something stupid. I think that they foolishly didn't account for cultural/environmental variables in their recommendations. While the Euro's have moved away from their legendary "high maintenance" auto, they have not stopped jumping through hoops in other ways. The central hydraulic fluid for Audi comes to mind ..that's only matched in VI by aviation grade synthetics.
How does one discern if Castrol Syntec was made in Germany or not?
Does it say plainly "Made In Germany"?
Does it say plainly "Made In Germany"?
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Yes ..and it even has (or had) distinctive RED PRINT for the 0W-30 part.
Of course, if you can find it you can probably use BC ..or Belgian Castrol 5w-40. I don't know if they still make it or not.
Of course, if you can find it you can probably use BC ..or Belgian Castrol 5w-40. I don't know if they still make it or not.
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It's an engine that's relatively tough to keep clean. Turbo plus meager sump size plus clog-prone PCV system make it that way. 4k mile OCI on certain synthetics is what I've settled on after learning the hard way what doesn't keep mine clean. Not all synthetics within the proper viscosity range are equal at maintaining cleanliness...oils with high thermo-oxidative stability and high detergency/dispersancy are warranted. My current fill: M1 5W-40 TDT CJ-4.
Oddly, GC was the first oil I used that oil consumption occurred with and with it I got the worst gas mileage (others were also VW 502 oils). Our Infiniti G35 also did not appreciate GC in terms of oil consumption (easy record-setter in that regard).
Oddly, GC was the first oil I used that oil consumption occurred with and with it I got the worst gas mileage (others were also VW 502 oils). Our Infiniti G35 also did not appreciate GC in terms of oil consumption (easy record-setter in that regard).
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I would imagine that something like T&TD or RTS would work well in this engine ...as may some conventional HDEO's for shorter duration ..but it's hard to back off of 4k. Can I assume that you drive the thing to some sensible power potential routinely?
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Can I assume that you drive the thing to some sensible power potential routinely?
Most mileage consisted of:
1. To/from work that is 35 minutes (22 miles) one way - 5 times/week
2. Trips of 6 hours going 75-90 mph - few times/year
3. Trips of 3 hours with often hard acceleration and otherwise highway speeds - 1 or 2 times/month
Can I assume that you drive the thing to some sensible power potential routinely?
Most mileage consisted of:
1. To/from work that is 35 minutes (22 miles) one way - 5 times/week
2. Trips of 6 hours going 75-90 mph - few times/year
3. Trips of 3 hours with often hard acceleration and otherwise highway speeds - 1 or 2 times/month
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Pretty mixed bag there. I'm just trying to remember if I ever drove "normally" in any vehicle other than my jeep. I think I could term it "normal within the capability of the vehicle and as needed otherwise".
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