Super efficient electric hot water heaters.

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I'm looking for a very efficient tank type electric water heater, that will go the long run. I'm replacing a 40 gallon unit.

Due to where it will be installed, a tankless-style unit is not possible without at least $1000 of additional installation costs to retrofit it. The additional installation cost (on top of the cost of the unit itself) will extend the time that it will take to recover the total cost (through savings) out towards 40 years. I'm not waiting that long....

I have been told about Marathon water heaters. Pricey, but apparently worth it. My parents have a Sepco Hydrastone water heater, which was known to be super efficient back in the late 80's (when they got theirs).

Any others out there worth considering?
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/index.html I am not sure if this link has any information you need, but since we are on the subject of waterheaters.


There's no 'rescue' needed for this unit.

The one that is being replaced is a 1978 model. Yes, it is a 30 year old water heater. Yes, it still heats... and no, it still doesn't leak... yet.

We're replacing it because it was built before anyone gave a serious thought to "energy efficiency".
 
Originally Posted By: benjamming
Do you have a height restriction? Do you want to go back with a 40-gal? Is this commercial or residential?
I would probably recommend a Bradford White.


No height restriction. It is sitting on a concrete floor in the corner of a mechanical room with two gas furnaces. There's a floor drain right next to it.

It is in a commercial setting, but it is only used for hot water in a men's and women's room, and for occasional dishwashing (by hand) in a kitchen. Basically, it is a community center... a 35'x35' event room, a kitchen, and two restrooms. No showers, no automatic dishwasher, no clothes washer.

Most days, there's not a single drop of hot water used. That's the desire to get a high efficiency unit. I'm looking for an efficiency rating of at least .93

The current unit is a shorty 40, however, there's no need for it to be a shorty. Not sure why a shorty was installed. IMHO, it doesn't need to be a 40 gallon unit.
 
I agree, this is a tankless water-heater's wet dream. But I understand the added installation costs put it out of the picture.

I wish I had good advice for you, we will be replacing our gas-fired unit next year as well. It's 19 years old and show it's age sometimes..
 
Is there a minimum legally required temperature for hot water, other than the 120F to kill Legionella? Keeping it cooler will reduce losses and might even slow corrosion a bit.
 
I understand the attractiveness of the tankless units.

However, I had a guy in here who works for a rural electric coop (who *isn't* our energy supplier at this location), so he isn't biased. Part of his job is to calculate these sorts of things (along with geo-thermal heat, etc) and he told me that it would take up to 40 years to recoup our install costs if we went natural gas tankless.

Even with an electric tankless, we'd have to run a line from the panel, which is halfway across the building. Plus, I have no idea if there's enough capacity in the panel for another 60 or 80 amps, and I'm not definitely not replacing the panel.

His numbers supported going with a super efficient tank type unit. His recommendation was the Marathon unit.

If this was new construction, or if it was part of a major remodeling project, I would go tankless in a heartbeat. But that's not the case here.
 
i would be tempted to install point of use electric hot water heaters since you only need to supply 3 locations. the drawback might be having to find a 115v outlet near each location. however, you wouldnt need to keep water hot for people who arent going to use it.
 
btw, what makes you think you need 60-80A for an electric tankless unit? for the size you need, you would probably need a 20A circuit max.
 
In a public facility, I think you need at least 170 F water for rinsing hand washed dishes. You can also use a freshly mixed up bleach solution. Your local health department is a more reliable source than me.
 
Originally Posted By: oilyriser
Is there a minimum legally required temperature for hot water, other than the 120F to kill Legionella? Keeping it cooler will reduce losses and might even slow corrosion a bit.




In the US that would be set at the state or local level if at all.

Canada prolly would do that at the provincial level, if they do.

120F is about the minimum I hear anyone with credibility recommending for the reason given by an earlier poster.
 
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