M1 0w-40 / Audi 4.2L V8/ 10,242 miles

[KnappAttack]

2005 Audi 4.2L V8, 9 qt. sump.

60,000 miles using M1 0-40 on every change since new at dealer using bulk supply. I ran the sample now as I'll now be doing my own changes as it's off warranty and scheduled maint. program.

I was prepared for the dreaded M1 high iron wear after reading these forums, and I see now that I was worried about nothing. This is an excellent report from the 0-40. So much for the high Mobil 1 iron. Guess I'll be using it from now on.



ALUMINUM----------------3

CHROMIUM----------------0

IRON-----------------------8

COPPER--------------------2

LEAD-----------------------1

TIN--------------------------0

MOLBDENUM---------------75

NICKEL---------------------0

MANGANESE--------------1

SILVER----------------------0

TITANIUM------------------0

POTASSIUM----------------2

BORON---------------------93

SILICON--------------------9

SODIUM--------------------11

CALCIUM-------------------2397

MAGNESIUM---------------14

PHOSPHORUS--------------729

ZINC------------------------827

BARIUM--------------------0


SUS VISCOSITY @ 210 F……. 68
SUS VISCOSITY @ 100 C……. 12.42
FLASHPOINT IN F……………… 405
FUEL % ……………………………… .5
ANTIFREEZE %…………………… 0
WATER %...................... 0
INSOLUBLES %................ .2

TBN…………………………………… 2.8

 

[buster]

Looks great. Can't beat that. 9qt sump helps.

Tbn is decent too. Probably 12-13k is doable. Is this the DI 4.2?

 

[buster]

I'm assuming this is the port injected version. The DI destroys most oils.

 

[KnappAttack]

Is NOT Direct Injected.

Blackstone said to try 12,000 too. 10,000 is just so nice to remember though. I'm glad I didn't spring for the RLI oil. I was really worried after reading RI-RS4 posts about the direct injected Audi's high wear.

 

[buster]

Yeah the DI version is just a poor design that some are trying to cure with oil. The RLI oils do seem to hold up better than most if not all others when fuel dilution is present.

 

[JoeFromPA]

KnappAttack - Looks like a great report. M1 high iron is more associated with their 5w30; their 0w40 is supposed to be a great oil and this report backs that up.

I would not go for 12k next with this oil. It starts out with a TBN of ~11.....at 12k, you are looking at a TBN of ~1 or less....which is considered dead. And I'm someone who believes TBN starts dropping faster as it gets lower (i.e. it drops exponentially with mileage, not linearly). I could be wrong on that though.

This is a phenomenal report by just about any account. Your viscosity and flashpoint remain great, your insolubles are very low, and all your typical indicators are at less than 1 PPM per 1,000 miles....which is diluted somewhat with your large sump, but still fantastic.

Any make-up oil? No wonder ward's called this one of it's best engines

Joe

 

[webfors]

Another excellent report from you!! What's the secret?

Seriously, I'm having UOA envy

I think you've reached the limit on that oil. No sense running it longer, and I agree with 10k oci's being easy to remember, which leaves you a little wiggle room to schedule the oil change at your convenience.

 

[RI_RS4]

Which Audi are you driving and which version of the V8 engine?

 

[ZZman]

9 Qts?..............gulp

 

[artificialist]

High iron from M1 is usually associated with M1 5w30 and 10w30.

 

[KnappAttack]

webfors,

My 6.5 turbo diesel Suburban didn't fare so well. I posted its results in the diesel section.

Don't plan to run any of my vehicles longer than 10,000 miles.

RI_RS4, This Audi is a 2005 A6, 4.2 non-fsi 5-valve head V8 engine using the factory OEM oil filter.

I should add that no makeup oil is added.

One secret could be the way I break a new car in. I don't baby them. The first half hour is very critical to the performance of an engine. I give them periods of brief full throttle to seat the rings into the bore. My new engines actually get run harder in the first half hour than they do the rest of their lives. This seals the rings to the bore surface better and ultimately produces an engine that makes more power and dishes out better fuel mileage than one that was broke in easy, or by the book. I also immediately drain the oil the first chance I get and replace it with dino oil the first part of its life. The first changes I'll do around 200 miles, then another at 1000 miles, 5000 miles, 10,000 and every 10,000 after that. I'm pretty religious about the break in.

 

[buster]

The break-in procedure you did is one I plan on following for my next car. It does work.

 

[webfors]

I used a similar procedure on my new forester for the first few hundred kms. Hasn't burned a drop of oil, except for the first run of PP... second run hasn't burned any so far.. hopefully that trend continues.

 

[RI_RS4]

Looks good. I just wanted to be sure that you engine had chain drive on the cams. It does, and your result looks good, and says that chain wear is fairly low, since that is where the majority of iron comes from in these engines.

I approve of your break-in technique. Those 4.2L Alusil cylinder wall engines are very sensitive to poor ring sealing and deposits in the 1st few 1000 miles. I'm pretty sure that those Audi V8 engines that experience high oil consumption are seeing the result of poor ring seal and blow by that causes ring groove deposits.