actually you can get a filter wrench to fit the top of the fl-820s filter perfectly.. it connects to a socket wrench
How tight is too tight for oil filter?
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Originally Posted By: kkreit01
I had many vehicles, and always done "hand tight" only. I might use 2 hands if there's room.
I recently changed the factory fill on my new Mariner 3.0 (820S filter). It took me an hour, and a trip to AAP to get the oil filter off. That factory gorilla must have put it on. It's also not easy to get at. I have one of those filter removal tools that has 3 claws -- which tighten as you turn. Well, it started crushing the filter, and put a hold in it before I could get it off. Now, I'm thinking I'll have to have it towed (filter has a hole, and is leaking). I finally got it loose after over an hour of wrenching with a long extension and 1/2" rachet.
Just about all factory Ford filters are a mother to get off the first time. Seems the engine plant installs the filter with the gasket base dry and coupled with Gorilla torque.
I had many vehicles, and always done "hand tight" only. I might use 2 hands if there's room.
I recently changed the factory fill on my new Mariner 3.0 (820S filter). It took me an hour, and a trip to AAP to get the oil filter off. That factory gorilla must have put it on. It's also not easy to get at. I have one of those filter removal tools that has 3 claws -- which tighten as you turn. Well, it started crushing the filter, and put a hold in it before I could get it off. Now, I'm thinking I'll have to have it towed (filter has a hole, and is leaking). I finally got it loose after over an hour of wrenching with a long extension and 1/2" rachet.
Just about all factory Ford filters are a mother to get off the first time. Seems the engine plant installs the filter with the gasket base dry and coupled with Gorilla torque.
Hand tight is all you need. It just depends on the techs. I've watched some hand tighten filters and use torque wrenches on the oil pan bolts, but then I've also watched some idiots use impact guns to put the oil pan bolt BACK ON and then crank down filters with filter wrenches. You can see the scaring from the wrench on the brand new filter.
Usually, if I go to get my oil changed at the dealer, when I change it myself again, I know for a fact I'm going to end up driving a screwdriver THROUGH my oil filter to get it off. More often than not they tighten in too much.
Usually, if I go to get my oil changed at the dealer, when I change it myself again, I know for a fact I'm going to end up driving a screwdriver THROUGH my oil filter to get it off. More often than not they tighten in too much.
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Hand tight.
Clean the mounting surface, lubracate the rubber O-ring on the filter. When the filter just touches the mounting surface, tighten 1/2 to 3/4 turn and no more. This way it does not make any difference whether you do it by hand or a wrench. If you can't judge the position on the filter can, use a black marker so you can see the 1/2 to 3/4 turn required.
I use filter strap wrenches, usually about 3/4 turn beyond hand tighten but I do it by feel. It is just a bit harder on removal. Since I do them myself I know what to expect on removal.
I dread removing anything another mechanic has worked on.
I had a dealer do it on a new vehicle since it was free. Yep, could barely get it off since the band slips on the filter with nominal force.
I dread removing anything another mechanic has worked on.
I had a dealer do it on a new vehicle since it was free. Yep, could barely get it off since the band slips on the filter with nominal force.
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I use a typical combination wrench to get the drain plug off and on. Been doing it that way for years with consistent results every time--no problems.
When it comes to the filter, I use one of those spring-loaded adjustable filter sockets to get it off. You can get a little bit more torque on it for removal in tight places. To install the new one, I follow the standard for tightening and use my hands.
When it comes to the filter, I use one of those spring-loaded adjustable filter sockets to get it off. You can get a little bit more torque on it for removal in tight places. To install the new one, I follow the standard for tightening and use my hands.
I follow the directions on the oil filter box, which usually say 3/4 of a turn after the gasket touches. I use a filter wrench which socket extension, since two of my vehicles are long reaches.
I go hand tight only. I only ever had one filter get stuck, and it was of course a garbage Fram. That was the last one I ever used. I use all Motorcraft and Purolator now and have no issues putting them on or taking them off.
Filter wrenches are only for taking the filter off.
Lube the gasket, spin it down until it stops on the mounting plate, and give it another 3/4 of a turn. Done. I have replaced hundreds of thousands of oil filters. That method won't leak, and it'll be loose enough that next time you can just grab a hold of it and spin it off without a wrench at all. I love filters that spin off by hand. BTW, the filter "gets tighter" once you heat cycle it. By that, I mean I'd you install it and heat cycle it, the torque needed to remove e it will seem like a LOT more than you used to install it.
Lube the gasket, spin it down until it stops on the mounting plate, and give it another 3/4 of a turn. Done. I have replaced hundreds of thousands of oil filters. That method won't leak, and it'll be loose enough that next time you can just grab a hold of it and spin it off without a wrench at all. I love filters that spin off by hand. BTW, the filter "gets tighter" once you heat cycle it. By that, I mean I'd you install it and heat cycle it, the torque needed to remove e it will seem like a LOT more than you used to install it.
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